Key in ignition with it turned off and drivers door open does it beep to say key is in

 

No, it doesnt make any sound. When the key is in position 2 (turned on) it says in the radio display "Left door open"

But i dont remember if previous was making any sound for the door.

 

It won't make a sound on position 2 that's why I asked if it makes a sound when turned off with key in and door open, if you would like help please answer the questions properly

 

Yes, i answered you. It doesnt make any sound with key just put in and door open. Any ideas next?

 

Have you taken the key apart lately to change the battery maybe ?

 

Or a new case

 

There is no such thing as an immo key and simple key. ALL keys must have the immoboliser chip or the car will not start. What you have is probably 2 x remote locking keys and one key without the remote fob.

If none of the keys start the car and there is no beeping then the BSI is not recognising the immobiliser chips in any of the keys which points to the BSI losing the information about the key chips. You will need to get your keys reprogrammed. There is also the possibility that the chip may have fallen out of the case on the key you replaced the batteries in. If you have lost the chip then that key will never start the car.

 

Yes x remote keys and one key non-electrical. What you mean the cheap? But also i checked all keys so i think it's not key's problem.

How the keys can be reprogrammed?

 

The chip is a small black oblong thing which fits in the case - it is separate to the module. In a non-remote key, it is encapsulated in the plastic and cannot be lost.

To reprogram, you need Peugeot Planet 2000 or Diagbox. You can take it to a dealer, buy the hardware (comes with software) or do this.

For all three options, you will need the four digit security code for the car, which is supplied on a card with the new car. If you haven't got it, http://www.peugeotcodes.com/

 

The chip is a small black oblong thing which fits in the case - it is separate to the module. In a non-remote key, it is encapsulated in the plastic and cannot be lost.

To reprogram, you need Peugeot Planet 2000 or Diagbox. You can take it to a dealer, buy the hardware (comes with software) or do this.

For all three options, you will need the four digit security code for the car, which is supplied on a card with the new car. If you haven't got it, Peugeot Codes - Peugeot Codes Home

You mean the green chip?No, the chips in both remote keys are on their place. I have the 4-digit number. So i must go it to the Peugeot service...

 

your problem has already been answered, you need to get the car to see the key before it will start

 

Hello again! I took it to Peugeot service and they re-programmed the BSI and keys and now my car is ok but they forgot to enable the central lock (buttons on the immo keys doesnt work). I only unlock/lock the door with the key in the hole.

How can i make them work remote?


Thanks!

 

Hi!
Resync described in owners manual around p 72

regs

 

 Ignition off
 Ignition on.
 Imediately press button A on remote ( the bigger)
 Ignition off. Remove key from car.

Remote should work

 

I tried it. I hold it about 20secs but nothing

 

* Bump *
I have been given a 206 4 door hatchback (2002 1.6L Motronic ME7.4.4) which was last registered in 2013.
It has the frustrating issue of sometimes putting up an immobiliser fault and refusing to start.

I tried checking for the beep with the key in ignition and opening drivers door. Nothing. Even if it would start, nothing.
Then I noticed that the door open icon wasn't coming up on the MFD either. So it looks like the door open switch is faulty.

I have also observed that a key unlock of the drivers door only unlocks the drivers door, none of the others. Unlocking the passenger door will open the other doors.

Is it possible that a faulty door switch would confuse the immobiliser system?

 

Is it possible that a faulty door switch would confuse the immobiliser system?

I don't think so. The beep test is just confirming (or not) that the car is recognising the key. The immobiliser will allow the car to start whether the door is signalled as open or closed.

An intermittent problem with the immobiliser could be caused by defective wiring of the antenna which is fitted to the ignition switch. Alternatively, the antenna itself could have an intermittent fault.

 

No a faulty door switch would not do anything to immobiliser

 

Thanks guys for your prompt response. I've been trying to trace the faulty switch problem anyway. I pulled the lock out, and there is continuity between pins 1 (green, door switch?) and 2 (gnd) when the door is open, and open circuit when closed. Similarly there is continuity between pins 2 and 6 (pink) when door is locked, and pins 2 and 4 (beige) when unlocked. (I think I got that right way round, I'm second guessing now). 3 (beige) and 5 (orange) had 2-300 ohms between them, typical of a lock motor. So, looks like the lock works as advertised and the fault is not there.

I don't think this model has deadlocking, I couldn't make it work if it does. Might be an Australian Design Rules thing, given our national phobia of locking kids in hot cars.

Then I unlocked the connector in between the door and chassis (how does that white locking ring and rubber seal go back together BTW?). The third pin from one end on one row had both the pink and green wire from the lock connected to it, and the corresponding pin on the other row was connected to pin 4.

This is where I get a bit lost because I haven't found a wiring diagram for the BSI on a multiplexed 206 yet. A bit of trial and error, but I could not find where the other of those wires were on the BSI. Does anyone have such a diagram? It is the BSI with the big grey shunt fuse in the middle of it, and a green connector to the right.

For some reason, it had an aftermarket central locking unit put on, maybe previous owner wanted two keys with remote and thought that effort was preferable to paying Peugeot for another key. I'm starting to think it was done to solve other issues with the factory system. I have now pulled all of that off, I don't think anything was cut to install it. It had connection to the indicators, power and a separate actuator that was hooked up in tandem with the OEM door lock knob.

However, when I put it all back together, the drivers door is now in full manual mode. And yes, I did plug it back in.

 

The circuit diagram problem is easily addressed. Download and install the eManual. It contains parts, procedures and interactive wiring diagrams for all Peugeots, not just the 206. A$18.99. and worth it.

 

What you need to understand is this the locking and the immobiliser are NOT CONNECTED in any way

Yes the remote locking and the chip for immobiliser are in the key AND are paired when new but both function independently so fixing the locking WILL NOT make the car start.

Your issue seems to be the key is not always being recognised OR the ecu is not being unlocked planet diagnostics goes into detail on the immobiliser side if you know what your doing this will help you see where the issue is then you can fix the locks once the starting is dealt with.

 

Thanks all for your helpful insights. Looks like I have 2 separate problems to fix. I bought the manual (thanks for the link IanML!), hopefully I can get it all sorted.

 

Another oddity I have noticed, since I pulled the aftermarket immobiliser off, the remote buttons seem to lose their mojo. When I got to open the car with the remote after leaving it locked for a while, it just doesn't respond. However, if I put the key in the ignition and turn it on (even without starting) the buttons work as advertised again. I've tried the reset procedure, and the remote has a 'new' battery I installed when I got the car in December, but I'm not sure how long that one was sitting in my spare battery box (in original package) prior to that. Strange.

 

I can open it with the key in case you were all wondering

 

These buttons your on about are they the remote buttons on the key or the aftermarket kit

 

The buttons on the factory key. It would be a bit of a stretch to expect the buttons on the aftermarket one to work after I had removed the aftermarket system!

I'm thinking flat battery. It's now working once or twice after re-inserting key, then nothing after a few minutes. New card of CR2016 batteries ordered from ebay. I'm too stingy to pay supermarket prices for coin cells.

Discovered that the two wires to the lock motor had been cut on the loom. So I have reconnected them, but still no cigar. Strangely, on the BSI, the lock and unlock pins operate (get pulled high) separately, but on the connector at the door lock both seem to operate on both lock and unlock signals.

For now, the immobiliser seems to be behaving. But no doubt within 24 hrs of giving the car back to my daughter I will get the "Dad, it won't start again" phone call... Gotta love those intermittent faults.

 

Ok just wanted clarification as your posts are a bit all over the place what you describe with remotes working for 3 mins is a common issue it is a BSI issue its loosing sync due to bad power inside it would not affect starting though my daughters car has never locked with key we recoded a new key and still the same so it stays unlocked

 

Cheers. Is there a known fix for this 'bad BSI power' issue? Open circuit connectors? Dodgy earths? Dry joints? It was working well until recently.

I think the next step for my lock issue is to try pulling out the drivers side lock unit and see if it works when plugged into the passenger side loom. That will draw a line on my wiring diagram and tell me which side I should be looking.

As for the motivation for the aftermarket lock kit, the 'factory one is screwed' theory is gaining traction.

Thanks again all.

BTW is there a way to 'save' a car in ServiceBox/ SEDRE? Or do you just have to re-enter details every time you go back in?

 

So now I have re-connected the cut wires to the door lock units. Both front doors had an aftermarket actuator wired up to the lock/unlock motor drive wires. I have removed those actuators and reconnected to the factory ones. Turns out the lock and door open signal wires were cut to put the aftermarket unit in. So connecting those back to factory configuration now has me in the state where the locking and unlocking either of the front doors (with either key or lock knob) makes the back doors lock and unlock in response, but the other front door doesn't follow. Hmm. Also, I now get the beep with the door open and key left in ignition.

The car is now completely unresponsive to the remote, when I get a new battery I'll know if that was the problem there. If that works again I might put just the aftermarket actuators back on, because it looks like both factory ones are stuffed. But I'll leave the factory remote system in place.

As for the immobiliser, no further issues since I last posted. But I have a theory - if it is related to poor RF coupling between the key transponder chip and the ignition barrel loop antenna, then if it happens again I will try pulling out the key and flipping it so the chip is in a different position relative to the antenna.

 

Well, the plot thickens! Now that I have (mostly) fixed the doors, I have the capacity to do a 'beep' test on the immobiliser. Even when it shows the immo fault, the car beeps when the drivers door is open with the key in and ignition off. So it appears the key chip sense function is working fine. BTW, new battery in key remote seems to have that working again.

Now, I was reading some of the other threads and came across the FAP app. As I have a ELM327 bluetooth reader, I gave it a go (FAP lite for now). Came up with 11 stored faults which I cleared. The one fault that seems to keep coming back is the P0705 Clutch Sensor Fault. However, when the immo fault is showing, it cannot connect to the ECU. So I tried Torque lite to see if that came up with anything when it was locked out. When I could connect with that one, it came up with a P0601 Memory Checksum Error. If I cleared that fault, it then started again. And this behaviour seems to be somewhat repeatable. And when the engine is running, Torque gives no faults. So it looks like I have a way to get it started, but it seems to be anything but fixed.

Should earthing points be the next thing I check?