[Quorashy]

NEVER GO ON CABLE COLOUR FOR FUNCTION REFERENCE!

Peugeot will change the colours depending on a lot of different issues.... You have to go out on pin reference. So those 4 vs 12 channel reference shows what pin controls which function. Quite useful really.

The thing you'll have to figure out is where to put the amp... and how much you want to spend.


If you want as cheap as possible, an Alpine 5 Channel amp will be more than adequate. If you want more control, get one with a built in DSP like the Sony XM-GS6DSP.

I get why you would want a DSP but then you will run into space issues with a separate DSP... you might even be able to hide this amp in the factory amp location behind the dash <img src="http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

When it comes to powering the AMP, it will need around 50-80a load. Coincidentally, DO NOT buy your standard amp wiring kit, the wire is made from aluminium, use a quality supplier like RS Pro and get a nice copper wire which will make installation alot easier as the gauge can be alot smaller <img src="http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

You will have to wire this up from the battery, the OEM wiring won't handle the load, if you look at the diagram from 4ch vs 12ch, it goes through a different relay system entirely.

How much do you want to spend on the amp? How much space is there to install it? I would say, remove the headunit and see what's in it. While you are at it... take plenty of pics please, especially of the headunit connectors, HD so I can see pin outs <img src="http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> (The block should have a little number somewhere near the pin to tell you which pin starts where etc)

I assume you will have to buy a Parrot SOT cable, which will convert the standard quadlock into ISO plugs. You will also buy additional ISO cables which you will need to solder additional wires (so you will need to learn how to solder) to make a loom but we'll get there when we get there

there is actually a donor 3008 that has the focal system that i can take from, what should be taken from it in order to make it work succesfully in my car?

 

[experinker]

Watch the French doctor here performing surgery!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPiX03bXOoE (if the link does not work type in Google "Dépose console centrale nouveau PEUGEOT 3008"- the video should come up)



I stayed at the front part before removing the store box. If you remove the part next to the pedals you will see the unit. It is 5 minutes job and risk free. Be carefull when you pull the side panels because they have a permanet cable connection for the mood lighting.

Wow thank you so much for this. It’s super helpful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Panos from A]

You are wellcome. If you attempt to go further than me in removing the console, there is a probability that you will find preinstalled connections for the sub woofer close to the passenger seat. I think the car has all the wirings and depending on the level of accesories bought, they put or not the accesories. (sounds very reasonable for those who are aware of basic factory lines operations). Moreover the Bosch PSA RCC unit (installed in my 4speakers +2tweeters car) has already outputs for sub and center speaker. I do not know if the software is set in a way to provide signal in these outputs.

 

[Quorashy]

You are wellcome. If you attempt to go further than me in removing the console, there is a probability that you will find preinstalled connections for the sub woofer close to the passenger seat. I think the car has all the wirings and depending on the level of accesories bought, they put or not the accesories. (sounds very reasonable for those who are aware of basic factory lines operations). Moreover the Bosch PSA RCC unit (installed in my 4speakers +2tweeters car) has already outputs for sub and center speaker. I do not know if the software is set in a way to provide signal in these outputs.

yes i have seen a cable for the center speaker present but i still dont know if there is a subwoofer cable preout there but i checked the rear doors and remobed the door card and there was no preout for the tweeters and the question is, is there a preout for the amplifier?

 

[Panos from A]

The Bosch RCC manual shows no low signal out for amplifier. So, the only way is to buy an amp with high input and drive it from the speakers outputs of the headunit. So the question for me remains: which cables are the outputs.

 

[Quorashy]

The Bosch RCC manual shows no low signal out for amplifier. So, the only way is to buy an amp with high input and drive it from the speakers outputs of the headunit. So the question for me remains: which cables are the outputs.

so whats the point of subwoofer output and center channel output ?

 

[experinker]

so whats the point of subwoofer output and center channel output ?

If you check the wiring diagram on the 12ch version, the subwoofer output and center channel are used and connected to the 12ch amp inputs. The question is, how does one reprogram the headunit (if it’s just a software/firmware vs different version of headunit altogether) so that it activates the subwoofer and center unit output. In the 12ch focal version, the radio unit has additional slider in the audio setting to adjust subwoofer output and center speaker output.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[experinker]

I completed the rear door speakers swap + adding tweeters, and of some sound deadening.

It was another fun weekend project.

Here is some steps and photos.

Removing rear door trim:
1. Take off plastic cover on the “decorative triangle” to expose screw and undo it

2. Take off small plastic round cover at the bottom of window switch cover to expose screw and undo it.
Use a very fine blade to minimise damage.

3. Undo screw at the bottom of the door trim.

4. The rest is just prying the trim by undoing all fasteners. There is 1 blue coloured fastener with metal pin. You need to pry with just enough clearance and use a long hook to undo this. Do this before you start unclipping the rest of fasteners.

Here is the inside of the trims to give some idea on all the plastic fasteners:

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[experinker]

The 4ch version originally didn’t have the tweeter on the rear doors, so I had to cut a hole and mount the aftermarket tweeter on the trim.

There are a lot of arguments about the ideal positioning of the tweeter and I’m sure this is less than optimal (i.e. not at ear level and not angled), but I figured this is the easiest compromise for an amateur job. Took me 10 minutes to cut hole and mount tweeter pod.

In hindsight, I could have just opted for a cheaper coaxial version of the speaker instead of component.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[experinker]

Again, the original speaker ring and clearance is perfect and usable straight away without modification (other than drilling new holes for the different screw positions).

Now, here is the interesting bit. The wiring speaker colours for the rear door woofers are the same for left door and right door.
I think this is why BIGK warned us not to trust cable colours down at the end of the loom as cable colours on the speaker ends and head unit end could be different.

Purple, left rear door woofer +
White, left rear door woofer -

Purple, right rear door woofer +
White, right rear door woofer -


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[experinker]

Now, after I completed the speakers swap out on all 4 doors with 2 sets of Focal PS165F, the result so far is nothing short of astounding. The bass, clarity and all overall is quality improvement are top notch. I had to turn off the “loudness” setting and reset equaliser to flat as the new speakers now don’t need them.

I could just stop here and be very happy with the significant upgrade, but hey, it’s been so much fun and I have already bought an amp and the factory subwoofer unit, I will keep pressing on to install the sub and amp as soon as the SOT adapter arrives. I can’t find any Australian stockist that has 56pin sot lead so had to order one from UK. Thanks to BIGK for the link.
Obviously, wife permitting as I have spent too many weekends lurking in the garage .



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[experinker]

I’m planning to install the aftermarket amp in the small floor compartment of the 2nd row.

It’s a perfect size

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[experinker]

Here is the pin outs guide at the back of bosch psa rcc unit. Taken from the manual.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Quorashy]

so whats the point of subwoofer output and center channel output ?

If you check the wiring diagram on the 12ch version, the subwoofer output and center channel are used and connected to the 12ch amp inputs. The question is, how does one reprogram the headunit (if it’s just a software/firmware vs different version of headunit altogether) so that it activates the subwoofer and center unit output. In the 12ch focal version, the radio unit has additional slider in the audio setting to adjust subwoofer output and center speaker output.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i mean now i have the 4 channel system and i found the center channel plug present, is it connected to the head unit or what?

 

[Quorashy]

Here is the pin outs guide at the back of bosch psa rcc unit. Taken from the manual.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i just wanted to ask is this head unit same as the focal systrm head unit?

 

[experinker]

i mean now i have the 4 channel system and i found the center channel plug present, is it connected to the head unit or what?

according to wiring diagram, the 4ch version is not connected to center channel speaker. I’m not sure where that plug actually goes to.

In the 12ch version, the wiring diagram indicates that the center speaker is fed by the amplifier output. Strangely, the subwoofer and center output from the headunit are not fed to the amplifier input. So it remains a mystery what is the purpose of the sub and center output of the headunit. Unless I’m reading it wrong. I’m confused as well at this point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BiGK]

Let's clear up some mysteries!

1. ALL speakers, incl sub and centre is wired to the Focal Amplifier in the car. (Subwoofer is 8426 in the diagram)

2. You might have the centre speaker connector. It is not wired to anything. You think of the loom as one single piece. It is not. It is most likely 2-3 pieces with connectors. The centre speaker will simply terminate at the connector without the corresponding pins on the other connector.

3. In the 12ch Focal System, the headunit outputs 4 channels as line outs, to the amp. The amp then creates the subwoofer and centre channels from that.

4. You will need all speakers, subwoofer box, wiring looms (dash, body & doors!!), amplifier AND headunit as the bare minimum to retrofit. Door glass is optional. Frankly it is going to be much harder to retrofit than do it the way eperienker has... While the focal speakers are much better, aftermarket focal's are still better.

What amp did you go with experienker?

 

[experinker]

Let's clear up some mysteries!



1. ALL speakers, incl sub and centre is wired to the Focal Amplifier in the car. (Subwoofer is 8426 in the diagram)



2. You might have the centre speaker connector. It is not wired to anything. You think of the loom as one single piece. It is not. It is most likely 2-3 pieces with connectors. The centre speaker will simply terminate at the connector without the corresponding pins on the other connector.



3. In the 12ch Focal System, the headunit outputs 4 channels as line outs, to the amp. The amp then creates the subwoofer and centre channels from that.



4. You will need all speakers, subwoofer box, wiring looms (dash, body & doors!!), amplifier AND headunit as the bare minimum to retrofit. Door glass is optional. Frankly it is going to be much harder to retrofit than do it the way eperienker has... While the focal speakers are much better, aftermarket focal's are still better.



What amp did you go with experienker?

Thanks for the time to provide detailed explanation BIGK.
I agree. I decided to go down the aftermarket route exactly due to the issue of looms. On top of that, it’s unclear how to program to make the head unit control the oem Amp unit (e.g. in factory fitted focal, the headunit has option to control subwoofer level and center speaker). Looking at the oem amp unit, it doesn’t have any adjustment dials/knobs/etc. All in all, it makes the retrofit is a very risky proposition that you end up with a non working system. There is another poster in this forum (m.c.ALF) that bought all focal factory oem parts except the harness which he will get it custom made. He’s yet to install them but it’ll be interesting to follow up.

To me, the part with biggest value for money from all of the factory parts is the subwoofer box. It’s perfectly integrated into the chasis under the seat and won’t take any extra space. It also seems to performs very well (when tested outside the car). Many aftermarket installers usually have to sacrifice some boot space. So I decided this is the only factory component I will use in the sound upgrade.

I ended up buying Alpine PDR-V75 (4ch + sub) mainly for budget reason as my hobby money has been thinning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Panos from A]

Now, after I completed the speakers swap out on all 4 doors with 2 sets of Focal PS165F, the result so far is nothing short of astounding. The bass, clarity and all overall is quality improvement are top notch. I had to turn off the “loudness” setting and reset equaliser to flat as the new speakers now don’t need them.

I could just stop here and be very happy with the significant upgrade, but hey, it’s been so much fun and I have already bought an amp and the factory subwoofer unit, I will keep pressing on to install the sub and amp as soon as the SOT adapter arrives. I can’t find any Australian stockist that has 56pin sot lead so had to order one from UK. Thanks to BIGK for the link.
Obviously, wife permitting as I have spent too many weekends lurking in the garage .



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Experinker, thank you for the very helpfull photos. Excellent work!

I would like to ask where you can find the Loudness setting. I can see the equalizer but no Loudness. Can you post a photo of the screen menu? Thank you in advance.

 

[BiGK]

Thanks for the time to provide detailed explanation BIGK.
I agree. I decided to go down the aftermarket route exactly due to the issue of looms. On top of that, it’s unclear how to program to make the head unit control the oem Amp unit (e.g. in factory fitted focal, the headunit has option to control subwoofer level and center speaker). Looking at the oem amp unit, it doesn’t have any adjustment dials/knobs/etc. All in all, it makes the retrofit is a very risky proposition that you end up with a non working system. There is another poster in this forum (m.c.ALF) that bought all focal factory oem parts except the harness which he will get it custom made. He’s yet to install them but it’ll be interesting to follow up.

To me, the part with biggest value for money from all of the factory parts is the subwoofer box. It’s perfectly integrated into the chasis under the seat and won’t take any extra space. It also seems to performs very well (when tested outside the car). Many aftermarket installers usually have to sacrifice some boot space. So I decided this is the only factory component I will use in the sound upgrade.

I ended up buying Alpine PDR-V75 (4ch + sub) mainly for budget reason as my hobby money has been thinning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can't make the standard headunit control the amp.... or atleast it looks like there are some hardware changes! You would have to buy a new focal headunit I am guessing which is going to cost alot.

Yep, it's why I suggested the box, even if you don't use the sub, the enclosure itself is worth it because it takes out a LOT of the hassle and gives you a tonne of boot space.

Even the cheapest 5 channel Alpine amp would have been fine sot he PDR-V75 is absolutely great, no need to buy the "best"!