[experinker]

Diagram of bassbox

I couldn't post the link to the PDF URL, but here are the screenshots.

 

[experinker]

Bump. Any pointer on where I can find some info? Perhaps I need to do some exploratory disassembly by taking off the passenger front seat and the carpet lining off. I wonder how difficult it is to take off the carpet without damaging it.

 

[experinker]

Unfortunately some of us (Eg. Australians) are not even given an option to order the car with Focal upgrade.

The prospect of retrofitting is very interesting. I’m aware that some sacrifice will need to be made.

Currently, I’m exploring the option of using that enclosure space originally intended to be used by Focal oem subwoofer and use one of those “under the seat” sub. Like one of these which has built-in amp.

https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/...ar-audio-kits-solutions/integration/plugplay/amplifiers/bass-enclosures/ibus-21

Otherwise, if my local dealer can order me the original Focal subwoofer part, I also wouldn’t cross the option of installing additional amp.
In the service manual, it looks like they already reserved space for the amp at the rear section of the car.

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[experinker]

Go buy the Focal Subwoofer / Enclosure from Peugeot directly.



Part Number: 9809351580 £175 GBP (Optional nut to install it - 6935A6 £1.25)



You can order overseas parts from your local dealer (for example I got a Japanese Domestic Market part only, in the UK)



The reason being, you can install this whole unit perfectly and it includes the subwoofer itself which is a triple voice coil power flower Focal Subwoofer. The Power Flower design is mainly used in their high end Utopia series which says a lot.



Making custom enclosures takes a lot of time, skill and patience - Just the raw materials like wood will end up costing over £50. With this, you can mostly plug and play.



The issues I believe you will have is finding somewhere to put the amp and wiring the amp to the subwoofer - it will use a custom plug you will have to chop off and wire directly. Your local audio installers will be able to do it easily though if you aren't capable/comfortable.



You can thank me by taking lots of pics of the bass unit thank you very much... as I am so tempted to buy one myself to retrofit into another car haha :thumb:

Decided to bit the bullet and ordered the bass unit from eurocarcare.net since my local peugeot dealer hasn’t been very responsive.
It’ll take about 1 week to arrive from UK. I’ll take lots of photos for you once it’s arrived .
After this, it’ll be another bout of research on the wiring colour coding from the headunit for the amp unit. I’m hoping that the headunit has line output so a line out converter is not needed as it generally reduces quality. I’m tempted to DIY this since my local car audio installers haven’t handled too many Peugeot.


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[experinker]

The bass unit arrived today! That was a lot quicker than I expected.
As promised here are the photos

How do I request mods of this
forum to allow me uploading photos in high res?

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[experinker]

More photos.

I will reupload once the forum mods allow me
to upload high res images .

I’m still restricted a lot due to being a newbie.

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[experinker]

I also measured resistance with a multimeter. Every pair is reading at 2.4ohm.

How do I wire 3 pairs of cables?

The bass box dimension is at approx 56 x 57 cm. I’m surprised that there is that much space under the seat.


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[experinker]

6 pins in the plug.

2.4 ohm measured with dc multimeter is generally means the coil is rated at 4 ohm each.

How does one arrange the connection between the 3 coils? Parallel or series all 3?
If putting them in series, it will mean it’s rated at 12ohm while putting them in parallel will mean only about 1.3 ohm? Am I analysing it correctly?

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[experinker]

That’s a good news.

One of these free weekends, I’m going to take off front passenger seat and check if they have preinstalled the loom by default. It’s quite common for a manufacturer to have a single part for all trims.

I found out that Focal’s “12 way system” is basically consisting of 2FR speakers, 2FR tweeters, 1 center speaker, 2 Rear Speakers, 2 Rear Tweeters, and 1 subwoofer.
But wait, that’s only 10 ways. Where is the other 2?

Well as now we know, the subwoofer is triple coil, so it’s counted as 3 .

In a typical car manufacturer’s arrangement for the “premium” system, 1 door speaker and 1 door tweeter are served via a single channel out of the head unit (1 pair of +/-). So 2 channels for FR left and right including tweeters, 2 channels for RR left and right including tweeters, 1 channel for center speaker and 1 channel for the sub.

The center speaker is hardly useful in most car speakers arrangement (e.g. clouding the stereo separation) so I’d leave it out.




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[experinker]

I found out today the front door tweeters are pioneer which is pretty good but when i detached one tweeter and connected it to the center speaker plug to check if its working but there was no sound though when i connected it, i think it might need to be programmed by peugeot planet but i am.excites to know if the rest of the loom for subwoofer and rear tweeters and amp are there?.....

I found the electrical diagram for both 4 channels version vs 12 channels. Unfortunately from looking at the diagram, it looks like the output and wirings are different.

Link for the 12 channels diagram
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Link for the 4 channels diagram
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[experinker]

Yes, I think that going to side harnesses is easier (see photo) - less cables. Thick grey and green/yellow are for 12V supply - some other must be for window and lock. Two of them should be for speaker. I started checking cables with multi meter. I will provide update as I move on. No guarantee that inside the door the colors will be the same as outside.

I have completed front door speakers replacement installation last weekend. I figured before I do the hard stuff like installing new amp and sub, I'd do the easy bit first. I'm about to post some install photos but not sure how do you guys upload largish photos as this forum has limited size for files that can be uploaded (97.7kb). Does the file size limit goes bigger once I post more?

Here is the wiring colours that I found:
Light Brown/cream, left door front tweeter (+)
Dark Brown, left door front woofer (+)
Grey, left door front tweeter (-)
Pink, left door front woofer (-)

Light Brown/cream, right door front tweeter (+)
Red, left door front woofer (+)
Blue, left door front tweeter (-)
White, left door front woofer (-)

Note that my car is Right hand drive, so left front door is passenger side.

My 5008 is 4 channels version, so the twitter wires were jointed in parallel with the woofer at the woofer's connector. This actually makes the aftermarket crossover installation very easy. I just cut the loom at the woofer socket and use the original wires for the twitter output from the crossover. No need to thread new wires for the twitter like a lot of car installation do.

 

[experinker]

Yes, the blue clip is the hardest
part of the whole install. And taking off the door trim without breaking the fasteners are almost impossible. I ended up breaking 6 out 10 fasteners on my first door and 4 fasteners on other door. Luckily I could get some after marker replacement.

If you do break the fasteners bits, make sure you remember to pick up the broken bits that fell off to the inside of the door or they’ll rattle and drive you insane. I used a long wire with balled up glue at the end to pick up those fallen bits.


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[experinker]

You need to somehow pry open the edge of the door trim and use some kind of long hook to unlatch the pin by pulling it down. I made the helping tool using a bent coat hanger.


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[experinker]

A crude tool made of wire coat hanger but very useful to reach and pull the pin down.


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[experinker]

Here are some photos of what’s behind the door trim so you can get some aims where to pry those fasteners.


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[experinker]

The steps of taking the front door trims:
1. Undo the tweeter housing triangle and disconnect tweeter - the housing is secured by 1 plastic fastener on the top and 2 plastic tabs on the bottom, they’re easy to pull off with just bare hand.
2. Pry open the door handle window switches fascia (use a plastic flat tool to slip in between the leather and the plastic and gently pry small section at a time. Then disconnect the connectors.
3. Undo 2 screws just below the handle bar and 1 screw at the bottom center of door trim
4. The most I found difficult: Pry and temporarily lift to create a gap on side of trim so you can see “the blue fasteners” with metal pin. There are 2 of these, Pull these pins down with some kind of hook (check photos above). Perhaps others can share other method. Don’t forget to push the pin back after trim come off so you don’t forget when installing the door trim.
5. Start prying then fasteners from around the edge of door trims. There are total 10 of plastic fasteners. Be prepared to break some of them and don’t panic. I think they’re meant to be disposable anyway. Getting some replacement will be handy.
6. Once the whole trim is open, there is 1 more connector you need to disconnect.
7. You’ll have access to the woofer!




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[experinker]

A pair of focal ps165f to replace factory woofer.

Check out the depth difference between the factory vs the ps165f. The stock speaker is so light it feels like made of cardboard.
Luckily the door has more than enough clearance to house extra depth without any spacer needed. The factory speaker ring fits perfectly. The only modification needed is drilling extra holes for the screws.



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[experinker]

I put in some sound deadener on the inside of the door. It’s worth while doing as to be expected Peugeot only stuck in a small square patch of deadener.

I also peeled off the styrofoam waterproof panel that covers the door cavity and replaced it with sound deadener material.

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[experinker]

The focal ps165f fits nicely without any mod.


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