I am not familiar with the scanners you are looking at. They look cheap enough that you wouldn't lose much if it didn't work. Mechanics usually buy top of the range scanners such as SnapOn which cost several £k. Even these units can't do everything the car makers tool does. If you want a cheap scanner to play with just make sure they list your car. In many cases all the cheap scanners will do is read the fault codes. Car makers are making it harder to work on cars. For example the only way to get full functionality on later Peugeot is download the Diagbox software from the PSA Servicebox site and pay to access the PSA server. One good thing I have know some people have successfully used a cloned version of the Lexia 3 with the PSA server.

When choosing an ECU kit I suggest the following:
(i) Look at your existing ECU and BSI and note the manufacture name (e.g. Bosch) and all the part numbers printed on them.
(ii) Only select a kit from the same car model, engine and gearbox* as yours - some sellers say they fit more than one model. This is risky - while they may work you could have performance issues.
(iii) Try to match all the part numbers on the ECU and BSI with those on your existing unit.

In the case of the BSM it doesn't need to come from the same model but make sure it has the same part numbers on it as your exiting unit.

* For example if you have manual gearbox and buy a kit configured for an automatic the car will not start. This can be fixed but you will need a Lexia 3 and Diagbox to change several settings.

 

@windy1603 from https://www.peugeotforums.com/threa...rs-p12a2-u1218.373488/?post_id=2430640&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-2430640
In short my previous mechanic was trying to fix her by replacing the turbo, however, once BSM was flooded, he couldn't even read the codes on her.... but he was saying that injectors needed to be replaced x2 off (I had x3) and "your ECU is "dicky""

Since replaced BPGA and BSM I had her just smoking, but she's gone in to limp mode and engine error light kept kicking on, as he drove her to his garage
Once x2 off (1 and 2) injectors replaced by a new mechanic, almost no excessive smoke, but "something happened" to BSM, as she's non starter again, however the "intermittent compression fault in cylinder x2" now is permanent code, however, not on a proper Lexia, but on EDIAG dongle thingy

She's at mechanics now, but going by all what's covered and not, to completely eliminate all problems, most likely, I'll have to replace BSM once again, got to get proper compression test and looking for, but so far not finding BSI+ ECU replacement combo
.............................................................................................................................................................

I am not familiar with the scanners you are looking at. They look cheap enough that you wouldn't lose much if it didn't work.

Thanks @Ian M Davis . Indeed those cheapo are cheapo, but some of the members in other threads had bit more of a luck and which "EDIAG" (now named "KingBolen" ) of my mechanics work, I'll have to be sure it's newer model or the other member @pezocik works on them the same

Mechanics usually buy top of the range scanners such as SnapOn which cost several £k. Even these units can't do everything the car makers tool does.

Spot on, indeed my old mechanics SnapOn wasn't reading ECU, but that was caused by flooded, now replaced and suspected shortened up or fuse on it blown or something else "happened" to that BSM again.

If you want a cheap scanner to play with just make sure they list your car. In many cases all the cheap scanners will do is read the fault codes. Car makers are making it harder to work on cars. For example the only way to get full functionality on later Peugeot is download the Diagbox software from the PSA Servicebox site and pay to access the PSA server. One good thing I have know some people have successfully used a cloned version of the Lexia 3 with the PSA server.

By no means, I'm a mechanic and rightfully "take on a chin" being n00b, however I'm absolutely gone off on idea investing in Lexia, whilst other OBD2 readers do as good of a job...

When choosing an ECU kit I suggest the following:
(i) Look at your existing ECU and BSI and note the manufacture name (e.g. Bosch) and all the part numbers printed on them.

Gotcha! ... 'ish.... ECU, I got all the numbers, but BSI is an absolute pig to get to to even to take picture, so whilst so far not eliminated ECU being "dicky", but it's 2-3 months now, it seems I just cant find correct combo.

(ii) Only select a kit from the same car model, engine and gearbox* as yours - some sellers say they fit more than one model. This is risky - while they may work you could have performance issues.

sounds/seems none of the ECU+BSI kits seem will fit, I've got bookmarked

https://www.peugeotforums.com/posts/2432008/

(iii) Try to match all the part numbers on the ECU and BSI with those on your existing unit.
In the case of the BSM it doesn't need to come from the same model but make sure it has the same part numbers on it as your exiting unit.

Not sure why Aleksandrs said "no" to me getting another BSM, instead, he's intending to investigate... but, whilst I haven't explained to him, that my previous mechanic spent extra x2 hours trying to find the fault of non starting (on the top of x4 hrs taking all related to turbo stripping and putting back), that was solved by replacing both BPGA and BSM....
ANW BSM P/N 9667044980 literally x115 off Bsm 9667044980 for sale | eBay
Unfortunately not the Delphi ECU kit...
Delphi ECU P/N 9666912580 +
BSI P/N ?????? ( P/N 966689538001 )+
(keys, locks, dial-display- cluster etc... )?

https://www.peugeotforums.com/posts/2425333/

* For example if you have manual gearbox and buy a kit configured for an automatic the car will not start. This can be fixed but you will need a Lexia 3 and Diagbox to change several settings.

If it comes to it (meaning, needing to get BSI+ECU (and/or BSM), but NOT A REAL COMPRESSION issue), I'm sure Aleksandrs will get his Lexia on her

 

By no means, I'm a mechanic and rightfully "take on a chin" being n00b, however I'm absolutely gone off on idea investing in Lexia, whilst other OBD2 readers do as good of a job...

The problem with generic scanners is they have to cover a huge range of cars. The Lexia 3 and Diagbox only covers PSA cars. The top end scanner mechanics use are fairly good but even they can give incorrect fault codes.

I know a of case where a SnapOn scanner was tried on a 206 MUX. The car was in economy mode and the tool was instructing the operate to start the car because it couldn't perform a reliable scan while the car was in economy mode. Not much use when the car wouldn't start. A Lexia 3 worked without issue.

Car manufactures would like all cars to be serviced by their own service centres so are making it harder for independent garages to work on cars. For example it is common to find the new parts menu is locked. This forces the technician to pay to access the manufactures servers.

 

I would be inclined to let Aleksandrs investigate the non-cranking issue. For example there is a good chance that fuse 8 in the BSM has blown. Given that you still have the extra wire connected to the starter motor solenoid if that wire was touching the car body when someone tried to start the car it would blow that fuse.

 

It was fuse on BSM...
(and I forgotten to ask about which Ediag OBD2 reader he was using before, but today he was using a proper wired (Autel) one)... not sure if I'll be getting one, or if I'll rather take her straight back to him, for that sort of a thing)

 

The Lexia clone is cheap (assuming a proper one and not crappy ones around at the moment), if you own a laptop that's suitable.

The only other one seen that plays well with Peugeot and equal to Lexia is Launch X41 that I know of, but not cheap compared to the clone unless you need a laptop as well. It is cheaper than SnapON or Bosch scanners by miles. Any OBD2 device might work, sometimes software that matters with them more than the protocols.

 

Right,
(the news, before, I'll jinx it)

(Just before DPF cleaning)


She's working just fine.
Physically those x2 injectors replaced (and fuse on BSM), then my mechanic (new one- Aleksandrs) done x2 regenerations, smoking gone, no warning lights, oil, filters (oil, fuel and air) being replaced and tomorrow whatever else, need be done.
Quick inspection underneath - all is well.
In short mechanic is at a loss what was it, never mind me, but likely issues started with those corroded ECU (injector) connectors making long ongoing chain of problems that was concluded with replaced turbo once, then me flooding BSM, so that old mechanic was really stressed out about getting to the turbo, that wasn't needed replacing, then he couldn't get his computer communicate with ECU (BSI really, via properly flooded BSM) and all that time driving little bit here, little bit there etc etc- buildup-clog up DPF... hence x3 months of me pulling the hairs, giving you guys headaches... all it needed, to get her in decent state running and all the diseases seem to have disappeared, as soon as she did bit of a good run. (Needs more decent run, as disks are so rusty it wobbles bit under the breaking, but all pads and disks were checked by old mechanic before- "all good")
Phew! 😁

I'll sort out insurance and windscreen (will pay up own self for replacement) tomorrow now, when new mechanic is going to get her back and all will be (everything crossed) still fine.
Did I say phew?, yes, I did, but here it goes- Phew!!!
Phew!
Phew! 😁

Thank you guys @Ian M Davis and @RedSector sincerely! you can not imagine how much your patience and expertise has helped me out with this car... and thanks @Aleksadrs too, (I'll be paying for generously). In case you guys are back in UK- make sure to get in contact with me, I owe you at least couple of pints each!

 

Your comment about the regenerations was interesting. The DPF holds two things that block it: soot and ash. The regeneration burns off the soot but it can’t remove the ash. Hence, I suggest you get your mechanic to check the level of clogging with ash. It would also be worth checking the amount of EOLYS left in the tank. Both these can be done with the diagnostic tool. The EOLYS tank is usually above the back left wheel and needs to be refilled occasionally. If the EOLYS runs out the regenerations will not work.

 

Thanks, Aleksandrs already done it, I think (from memory)1350ml.

 

In short, on the top of what I've paid for the car, I already spent £1500+
She now runs on 3.5 cylinders, both Engine Management and Battery Charging System light on, never mind red STOP in the middle + other issues...

 

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(The charge) voltages
Engine cold- 12.5V
Lights on - 12.3
Lights+ ignition- 12.2V
all off, 2 mins -12.5V
Started car at 0.8k revs - 12.9V
At 1.8k revs- 12.9V
at 3k revs- 12.9v

past yesterdays my visit, when I took my old BPGA and BSM over, he changed one fuse on BSM, cleared all codes,done DPF regen x2, she stopped smoking... huuuha!

This morning got told (before went to pick her up), that opposed to her non cranking from the key, she's running without a key

Got told it might be BSI and/or BSM... (now I got the number for!!!!(BSI))

All lights kept coming on as per what you see, but she was shifting like a trooper! (3'rd gear, bit of a dirt on a road, foot to the metal spin, ESP, about 70'ish MPH (120 KMH) on and back to the nudge to change in to 6'th... was perfect for about an hour of a drive, got stuck in a traffic~10-15 mins- engine started to rattle

Stopped, attempted to do BSI reset procedure- nothing changed

(Spoke about it to couple (X3 actually) people) 1- can't be booking for until August; 2- admitted, it's out of his expertise; 3- was on a phone messenger.... dunno

Tomorrow, seeing either one or the other for a final diagnosis (hopefully), as all other from that map
Peugeot Planet / Diagbox Diagnostics Owners Map - Google My Maps either no reply to an question of me bring her over, just to do the final diagnosis or places, that are simply long 404'ed

(just the red is no go- Lord Khan's rip-off circus), blue... only a guidance, if someone would at least be able to tell me what's what, be experienced and perhaps measure pressure in a cylinder 2 or even all, that extra 20 miles something like Bournemouth, Hastings or Oxford - no worries- I'll drive!.
So the questions remain:

• MUST it not contain another BSM in a kit?
• Should I get just BSI and get it cloned? (kinda got to send both away for) P/N 966689538001 (aren't I clever to have managed to snap the number without removing anything?)
  
  966689538001 for sale | eBay
• Should I try to find a kit (impossible so far without matching numbers as in 5008 manual 6 speed Sport model 163 HP) BSI+ECU? (+ BSM)?

shortened list of sellerererers being "funny" about their compatibilities or part numbers etc
PEUGEOT 3008 2.0 HDI ECU SET KIT 9667083880 9666098180 966405878002 | eBay
PEUGEOT 3008 / 5008 RHH 2.0 DIESEL AUTO ECU KIT & KEY 966689538002 / 9667082380 | eBay
GENUINE PEUGEOT RCZ (2013) 2.0 HDI DIESEL ECU KIT + 2 KEYS 9801556080 ~ | eBay
PEUGEOT RCZ / 3008 / CITROEN 2.0HDI ECU SET KIT 9666912580 9667082380 | eBay
PEUGEOT RCZ 3008 2.0 HDI 9666098180 9667044980 ECU ENGINE CONTROL SET KIT | eBay

• Is alternator dead? should I get new one (used) or just rectifier? what are the P/N's for them?
• One of them said, that "diodes died"- where? is that in Alternator- BSM or BSI?
• Need to get new or used Oil Filter Plastic Housing and filter number (and I got the oil anyway and old oil wasn't bad at all) perhaps to rectify another one of those "oopsie" thingies. P/N's anyone?
• Need to find LHS over the wheel arch plastic cover, as it's broken (whilst doable Aleksandrs suggested taking 2 hrs work to rectify it...and is being eaten by the front wheel or at least the part number for? before it's gonna "#Fly away... in to the blue skies"... or someone's windscreen...)

"kit-set" need be P/N's BSM; ECU; BSI"
9667044980
9666912580
966689538001

Again, as per usual, any advice is appreciated!

Thanks and good night!

 

and I got the oil anyway and old oil wasn't bad at all

No amount of engine oil into the alternator is okay, if you don't clean it out immediately. Sitting, nonoperational, would have compounded the issue, ensuring the contact brushes soaked the oil into them, once that happens - it's all over. They chew through the slip rings.

If the above happens, then the carbon contact brushes (soaks it into the carbon brushes) for the slip rings, will eat through the slip rings 'the copper' once they come in contact with engine oil. Unlikely to be just the voltage regulator.

You have to pull apart the whole alternator, examine and test, or replace it as an assembly. Unless you rebuild an alternator for a job (specialist work here), no-one replaces slip rings, they replace the whole assembly. They will replace the alternator voltage regulator which typically has the carbon brushes attached, depends on the design in use (Bosch is best design / and is largely standardised / modular ~imo).

Future lesson of this happens, is an oil leak into or onto the alternator will kill it, oil into the alternator any time is regrettable, needs immediate cleaning out and carries certain risk.

One of them said, that "diodes died"

Diodes are in the back of the alternator, one dies, you get out of phase charging and this normally kills the battery before you know about it (most end users miss the sign - brief seconds off charging circuit light on when it shouldn't be or comes 'on' faintly). All the diodes dead, is rare, and engine oil is not known to kill them. This advice is misguided, can be tested as false with multimeter prior to removal.

If ever need to get one or more changed, again specialist job ~imo, get them upgrade them, you can get about 5-20% more amps from the rated amps for the RPM by doing this on the same windings, the guy that specialise in this, always know exactly how much you push the existing windings / upgrade output of the alternator, and this is where/when you consider doing it. The existing all should be changed new if one goes.

 

If oil didn't get in there so-to-speak, prognosis of voltage regulator or diodes is likely. Be trying the voltage regulator, if Bosch, normally remove and put new one on easily and can see the slip rings at that time.

 

can't tell could be any make from Valeo to Bosch, to Delphi or anything in between

 

Damn it! (me or whatever)

Catalogs

SSG.ASIA is a wholesale and retail top brand supplier of genuine and quality replacement auto spare parts from the United Arab Emirates (UAE)

www.ssg.asia

 

Just have a look at the rear of the alternator on the vehicle to find out what is existing. If going new, going to say Bosch - highest model amps you can afford, price reasonable and at least equal to what is there.

Fits / plugs in, is a given.
eBay normally has decent pricing to start with and parts as well.

 

I can't see nothing, not even a phone can, then there's listed 150 or 180W, then different pulley sizes on half of them...

 

You can't really take any chances on pulley type, it must be the same, a bit complex to explain. This guy does a good job of explaining it, generally... so let him

I've not looked into this for your model to know what you have and don't like to give wrong information, if can avoid it.

Older type were typically, nominal size (possibly OD or ID) and quantity of ribs. Older, again, were V belt size - don't see these much anymore.

There are a lot of versions around now with overrunning, clutches, etc.

 

You can't really take any chances on pulley type, it must be the same, a bit complex to explain. This guy does a good job of explaining it, generally... so let him

I've not looked into this for your model to know what you have and don't like to give wrong information, if can avoid it.

Older type were typically, nominal size (possibly OD or ID) and quantity of ribs.

There are a lot of versions around now with overrunning, clutches, etc.

9678048880 is a standard part number- got to be it!

 

9678048880 got to be it

If correct, then think Bosch 0 986 082 240 - Alternator
0 986 082 240 - Alternator | Spareto

 

Valeo 9678048880
???

 

Going new, change to Bosch, unless the Valeo, is a clone copy internally... they are generally, easier to work on, generally more part availability (at least here)

 

connections, ratings, type of pulley? actual fitting nobody can guarantee, unless it's "like for like"

 

got to go (g2g)
talk after 6-7 hrs sleep mate

 

If you take a photo of what you have, the pin out on it and the pulley, then can stop being general and start being this will work, use this.

Here is the job of removing and putting a new one in, most likely need it to repair as well.

 

I have attached the parts list for the alternator. The number on the alternator 9678048880 agrees with the parts list for the car's RPO 12299 12 July 2010.

The original Peugeot part number for the alternator was 5705 KV but was replaced by 96 780 488 80 which is described as:
VALEO(ALTERNAT) - TG 15 C 135
- ALTERNATOR 150 AMP UNTIL RPO 12588

It looks like the Bosch 0 986 082 240 is an equivalent.

 

If you take a photo of what you have, the pin out on it and the pulley, then can stop being general and start being this will work, use this.

In that previous post there are some, that might show enough for identification of thingy, if not, one more vid:



That's all what I can show using phone, which is more than I can see with my eyes...

Here is the job of removing and putting a new one in, most likely need it to repair as well.

If you implying me need be doing it myself? thanks for the confidence ... and that'll be that, I wouldn't dare to even try to
If you meant just rectifier replacement... I've no hope in finding someone to do that.

"Slide" Oz is way better for decent mechanics and garages, in the words of ozzies now expats, I had a chat with recently

 

I have attached the parts list for the alternator. The number on the alternator 9678048880 agrees with the parts list for the car's RPO 12299 12 July 2010.

Shopping for, but being Wednesday I won't even receive one this week by post

The original Peugeot part number for the alternator was 5705 KV but was replaced by 96 780 488 80 which is described as:
VALEO(ALTERNAT) - TG 15 C 135
- ALTERNATOR 150 AMP UNTIL RPO 12588

tons of SH ones, can't find new one for nothing less than £190-260 ($243.93 -333.80 USD) a rip off...

It looks like the Bosch 0 986 082 240 is an equivalent.

these are only even more expensive £325+ ($622.85 AUD or $417.24 USD) + PP...

Looks like, I'll have to just get used one then or find someone to do the rectifier replacement only, but labour costs will be only higher...
dunno TBH

Got to find a mechanic, to do the job, which is task and a half around here in all.

Auxiliary belt though, I'll get to replace too, "just in case"

 

In theory only regulator

Pardon our interruption...

or

Pardon our interruption...

Need be replaced or that are actually faulty (broken)...
...........................................................................................................................

In practice, any of these will do
PEUGEOT 3008 / 5008 2.0hdi Alternator 2011 | eBay £59
Peugeot 5008 3008 Alternator 2.0 diesel Hdi 2010 11 12 13 | eBay £45
Citroen, Peugeot Alternator 96780488-80 | eBay £30
2011 PEUGEOT EXPERT 1.6 HDI ALTERNATOR 9678048880 | eBay £30
and CITROEN C4 2012 Alternator Man 5 Spd 9678048880: 65888 | eBay £36 (or £24 +£12 PP), but being mere 40 miles (60 Km) away... that's ~1hr 45min one way in average traffic jam conditions around these parts, I'll perhaps just go and pick it up myself (?? do you reckon I've lost marbles- maybe! is it any good?- who knows, as with anything S.H. ...)

............................................................................................................................
or to get reconditioned one like
ALTERNATOR PEUGEOT CITROEN 2.0 HDi, | eBay ~£89 , but bugger is away till Friday, so earliest, I'd receive it Tue next week
ALTERNATOR PEUGEOT 207 208 2008 301 308 3008 508 5008 807 RCZ 1.6 2.0 DIESEL 150 | eBay £110

..................................................................................................................
Or just find a bargain like
ALTERNATOR PEUGEOT 207 208 2008 301 308 3008 508 5008 807 RCZ 1.6 2.0 DIESEL 150 | eBay £166
Rollco Alternator Fits Peugeot Citroen DS Mitsubishi Volvo | eBay £168 Rollco (no brand name to me, turns out used by Citros and Pugs equally as any other makes OEM....
.............another edit
One more "bargain" Amazon.co.uk at "mere" £140 looks like optimal solution. what do you reckon?

Ought to consider the labour costs on the top....
...It still is nowhere near the end of my troubles with her, there are tons of other issues that are wrong, need be to put right, that's already way over double the value of the car itself...

TBH, if I'd find how it's been "stitched up that way", that shown 0 problems-faults, just "smoking" and get it blunted that same way, I'd cut my loses and just sell it on on to a next idiot. She doesn't smoke ATM either.
..........................................................
One more edit
Forgotten to mention, already purchased the belt "6 Ribbed Auxiliary V Belt Aux Multi 1245mm 6PK1245 Fits Ford Febi 40323 "

 

what do you reckon?

They're all equal, till you have to find parts for one. You can go cheapest, you can go most expensive or namebrands.

The choices is yours, not sure would keep going with buying parts, and then having someone else fit them, here most mechanics here would not do this, warranty / consumer rights nightmare. I know few here will do this, and I do all my own work, no harm being the way you are either, just saying why not ask a specialist for price inclusive of fitting it.

Normal practice is let the place that is fixing it, buy the part (they get cheaper price than you in any case, most likely sell at RRP, make money on the markup and charge the labour), also leaves warranty issue on them completely.

Alternators here can be a specialist - although harder to find these days, and they will know what they service most, and what they rarely see, would be using that knowledge if it exists around you.

If asking me, don't care what Bosch cost and not about to move away from them on alternator if got to a point of considering new one, that what my vehicle gets. My knowledge tells me that they don't break, when they do, easily fixed, and we have a good supply of parts here (any /all the reasons outlined before about why this), plus anyone random automotive person is likely to have experience with them. Sometimes the other use different design internally, sometimes they will clone Bosch design.

If we got too it, any name brands are probably good designs. Just favouring based on my own experiences and what I know locally is likely to be able to be repaired from off the shelf / not special order 6 weeks plus later. Valeo is most likely equal, as any name brand.

 

Well well well, neither Alternator, neither Auxiliary- "Serpentine" belt arrived today, so tomorrows mechanic (x4'th now) slot is cancelled...

Few "happenings": As I was driving from one mechanic, then other, to see for a slot to get Alternator and Belt done, at one of them I was persistent on getting few things to check up. One- trying to read errors whilst alternator not working - silly idea it was, taken load of pics, but it was too sunny, not worth posting.... might-could give someone a heart attack with amount of errors/codes ...

(However the last mechanic was adamant, that cambelt wasn't done, whilst one before hand...
....got to be fair, he didn't exactly say, that he checked or that it was done, but he said along the lines - "don't worry about, I checked everything"... so I asked my one of the most local ones to check for sure.

Yes!

"sure- nothing to worry about!" (the car is at almost 80K miles), I believe they need be done at 60K, regardless- it is NOT 20k miles belt, even I can say so!

hence,

https://www.peugeotforums.com/threads/5008-rhe-timing-belt-kits-with-water-pump-110kw-150hp-2-0-hdif-2010-reg.374022/

To separate the cambelt change from this Saga seems like sensible idea...

 

The cam belt is done, not really where you expect to see the issue, this may be from oil getting on it (the damage on the outside of the belt). The oil seals for the camshaft or crankshaft may source or could be leaking down from the valve cover.

Normal wear for the cam belt is the inside of the cam belt between the teeth, and not on the backside of the belt like you see.

The belt and running gear get changed, possibly oil seals mentioned and water pump is wise, and you suspect the belt was not changed. Otherwise, the running gear / water pump maybe okay, depends on what mechanic sees really.

If it turns out I'm right about oil contamination, then this belt is not-so-old and dead / and was changed, but they should have included the seals or fixed the leak assuming it was present at the time. I nearly always recommend oil seal change, regardless, with the cam belt as a preventative measure, and this would be the why.

Of course could point back to you, the supplier of parts, and therefore if parts not there, why do the work or recommend the work needed, it becomes circular argument, which is what been trying to point out to you before. You need to understand the engine and risks or do the work yourself rather than just order the cheapest price part or find a mechanic you trust to accept they make money on parts, and know what you are getting is the full service.

 

The cam belt is done

huh... one mechanic (and seller)- "done" at 60k along the lines yes'ish, almost sure'ish and now you @RedSector ???? 😮
Last mechanic that worked on it- "NOT", last mechanic, that looked at it- "NO!"

Me trusting NONE mechanics no longer... 3/4- "not done", but going by you- "done already" (1/4)...

Seriously this car, if hasn't yet, but might, just very likely "break camels back at last"

I'm too n00b of an "mechanic" my own-self to be going just by an instinct, but lost now on who's opinion is right on what and right path would be to undertake... at least as it comes to cambelt kit...

 

Don't take it personally, I'm just saying what I see. Trying to be objective about it and clearly not aware of risks. If the oil contamination risk happened, they already knew and saw it, or happened after the belt was changed. The detective work is up to you.

I've maintained every vehicle I have owned, since I was 18 or 19 and do all the work, done full engine rebuilds more than once. Made plenty of mistakes along the way. I also hold a qualification in mechanical engineering and worked in the field for twenty years plus.

 

Don't take it personally, I'm just saying what I see. Trying to be objective about it and clearly not aware of risks. If the oil contamination risk happened, they already knew and saw it, or happened after the belt was changed. The detective work is up to you.

I've maintained every vehicle I have owned, since I was 18 or 19 and do all the work. Made plenty of mistakes along the way. I also hold a qualification in mechanical engineering and worked in the field for twenty years plus.

yeah... I'm with you in that sense, but there's nothing more, I can investigate, but to either get the kit and give it to mechanic to replace or not... who WILL do it and WILL say, that the work was needed to be done- "cambelt kit wasn't changed"...
I'll end up none the wiser, if I should've or not....

 

So in dry and wet belts,
I go with and favour Dayco or Gates, because they both support the industry, do investigation of premature failure, make the reports public, provide training to mechanics often free. Do the cost more, yeap, but worth it.

 

Dayco or Gates

I get it, but price ways over here they are as within £20 difference, whilst retailer margins are £40 from the cheapest to the most expensive (identical kits)... kinda "not of importance" , at this point to have it replaced or not...