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206 1.4 8v cylinder head torque problem

22K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  bill555  
#1 ·
Hi guys,
I'm changing the head gasket on my wife's 2003 206 auto, it's a 1.4i 8v. There has been a long term oil leak from the front of the head and more recently water in No.1 cylinder (gearbox end). The new gasket is an FAI, Torqued all the headbolts in sequence to 20nm, then +240deg in the same sequence. Everything went well except for the last headbolt which got to about 140deg and would not go further without what I believe would have been destructive force accompanied by lots of extreme noise and judder. Anyway my problem is where do I go from here? Do I leave it alone? Do I remove the bolt and try again? If so to what torque and angle? The head is pretty much pulled down so different start position . The bolts are the originals, all well in spec, threads cleaned, engine oil on thread and under cap. block threads chased and cleaned. I'm guessing that this is a friction problem with this one bolt, could be bolt or block threads or both. With hindsight I would have used new bolts, I need to put this down as a learning exercise and work out how to proceed from the point I'm at. Perhaps I'm worrying too much but I would not want it failing again anytime soon.
Any advice, ideas or comments would be appreciated.
Bill.
 
#5 ·
First of all, new bolts.

Most manufacturers state that their head bolts can be used twice but all of the rundown stations I've seen will loosen and then retry the entire tightening process if any bolt fails an angle check (or whatever) during the first tightening. Thus your two lives may have been used up before the engine even left the factory.

Then, what do they say about lubrication?

Production head bolts are supplied lubricated. Having not bought any (yet), I'd assume that service ones are also, as all other bolts I have bought (suspension, etc) are supplied in sealed packaging. Therefore they may not need further lubrication but I'd follow the prescribed service procedure. We use SAE 50 as a multi-purpose assembly oil, for example. If they don't specify a lubricant, then you shouldn't use one. What you can do, by oiling when you shouldn't, is significantly increase the amount of Clamp-Load you should be getting from the 20Nm meaning that some of the extra 240° is excessive. I'd be surprised if this was why you'd hit a wall at 140°, though, and I'm afraid it may be that you've discovered another issue. Run a longer bolt with the same pitch down the thread to make sure the female thread is clear and undamaged.

Cheers, Jim
 
#7 ·
Well guys, thanks for all the input.
Just to throw something else into the pot, its the last bolt (No 10) in the tightening sequence that was the problem, this is on the outer side of No 1 pot which is exactly where the gasket had breached into the water jacket, I suppose this could have been going on undetected for a long time and water contamination may have caused micro pitting in the thread and thus friction. Anyway its now fixed (I hope!) I backed out the offending bolt using the angle gauge to measure the point it became loose (155deg) cleaned out the thread again, finally washing it out with alcohol and air line. Lubricated a brand new bolt with moly and angle tightened 155 deg so then at the same point the last bolt stopped (20nm +140) turned it a further 90 deg which is just on the 'safe' side of the the 20nm +240 specified. Fingers crossed!
Bill