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2008 308 HDI (1.6) Cranking but won't start...

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25K views 217 replies 8 participants last post by  Ian M Davis  
Here are some general points, and get more specific once I know engine designation code.
Can you provide the engine designation code from the VIN, digit positions 6,7,8.

Windows, indicators & wipers don't work -
Check the earthing cable in the engine to the body and to the engine, this could be a source issue. Voltage drop or resistance test (greater than or equal to 1 ohm)

The windows check the earthing, start in the drivers' door, as it appears the BSI is working.
Indicators check the earthing, as appears the BSI is working.
Wipers check the earthing, as appears the BSI is working. Is this front or back, or both ?

These three most likely to not have the same earthing points, which is why separated them but share common earth to body, most likely near the battery or as mentioned next post vehicle has gone into economy mode.

  • P0193 - Diesel pressure signal Circuit open or short to positive, or value too high
  • P0122 - EGR throttle position repeat signal Short circuit to ground or value too low
  • P0113 - Intake air temperature sensor signal (flowmeter) Circuit open or short to positive, or value too high
  • P0473 - Exhaust differential pressure sensor signal Circuit open or short to positive, or value too high
They are all similar, suggesting short circuit or open circuit, this would mean you need to look at wiring between the sensor back to the ECU. While a short can occur at the sensor, the odds of so many seem slim. I would test each wire between the ECU to Sensor, looking for resistance equal or above 1 ohm (or voltage drop from ECU to Sensor)

Look over the wiring looms, heat from the engine can crack them, which can lead to mass failures.

The connector wiring appeared OK too.
Look at the connectors pins into the ECU, corrosion, or other issues can lead to the above failure. Consider using electronics contact cleaner on the plugs if any sign of issue.

These sensors may be using a common earth, which is worth looking at as well.

  • Cam / Crank synch = No, even when cranking - belt does turn as do crank and cam pulleys ...
  • Engine speed = 0 rpm, even when cranking
I'm getting 7.5v on the Crankshaft Sensor signal wire with the ignition on
See next post.

  • ...belt looks fine albeit to me seems a little loose
Not sure which belt you mean, if I assume you mean the cam belt. It has a slack side and driven side, the driven side should never have any slack and slack side not easy to see because the tensioner if working correctly takes up the slack. A fault here could be the tensioner and/or the belt (possibly jumped).

If assume you mean serpentine belt, these also have a tensioner on the slack side and should not see slack in the belt that isn't taken up. However, the fault here maybe the tensioner and/or the belt and/or Alternator overdrive/clutch pulley.

Anyway, hope you find this helpful.
 
PEUGEOT 308 1.6 HDi DV6ATED4 (9HX) 2007 - 2010
ECU: Bosch EDC16C3
ABS/SC: Bosch 8.1

DTC P0113 Air temperature sensor 1 circuit high
Components or wiring
(1) Mass airflow meter with air temperature sensor
(2) Air temperature sensor

DTC P0122 Throttle position sensor 1 circuit low and/or Accelerator pedal position sensor 1 circuit low
Components or wiring
(1) Accelerator pedal position sensor

DTC P0193 Fuel pressure sensor 1 circuit high
Components or wiring
(1) Fuel Pressure sensor
(2) Fuel pressure control solenoid

DTC P0473 Exhaust pressure sensor 1 circuit high
Components or wiring
(1) Differential pressure sensor
 

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1. All around the crank pulley area where the sensor is fitted was a lot of oil/grime - lookreasonably fresh and no leak was reported in MOT… could that interfere with the sensor reading? I tried to clean all round behind the pulley but didn’t take it off.
This maybe a sign of leaking cam or crankshaft seal, if it has got on the cam belt, it must be replaced. At a guess, without photo's suggest might be from the camshaft seal. It takes a steady stream normally to effect the sensor, but not impossible either.
 
Crankshaft sensor isn't on the DTC code list X4 – my suspicion is this may be because camshaft and crank are not in agreement, thus the ECU is protecting the engine. But guess if this test fails, that maybe incorrect.

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A Lexia 3 full chip device is ideal, but none of the codes you have given are incorrect for the ECU, which is what often happens.
If there is a difference between camshaft and crankshaft sensors, a zero reading from the ECU may be a way of protecting the engine.

It won't change that you need to fix wiring by the looks of what you have found, just mean you need to check the timing is correct on the belt, as well.

If you have correct thermal putty and silicone they use, non-issue to open it, just warning that once opened these have to be replaced.
 
The air doser has shut down procedure, set noises after the engine is turned off to check it has control / throw error next start when it does not and if critical for my engine stops ability to start it. Here is mine https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ahn1qybKg9kshOp73EbrBfD6ze_SHQ?e=7WApy4 from 4007 2.2 HDiF DW12MTED (recording is the shutting down procedure)

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I think RedSector does a screen print.
screen capture (f12) into paint.net / clipped / named and exported to model number/engine designation/component name/Pxx.png
P=Page
P00 is overview
P01-onward matches process steps.
When cant be bothered...bunch of random numbers from paint.net screen capture/crop.
 
The cambelt being loose is still very real and needs addressing, I'm having a nightmare trying to get the wheel off and already snapped an extractor bolt. Somebody used an impact wrench on that locking nut as they stripped the security lugs. I'm going to be drilling out the whole nut... if not, it's an angle grinder and the whole wheel is toast.
Take a few photos of the issue and see what I can suggest.
 
Another option is disconnecting the battery, safe the vehicle for welding (protect the mag etc), and then weld a nut on and then undo. Then proceed to throw the wheel lock nut, and never use them again.

All it takes is one noob with a rattle gun set to over torque, and they become a nightmare.