[AidanC]

This is where I saw the reference to oil contamination:

link

As regards the actual dimensions of the guide and the belt, you might have more luck if you ask on the French forum 308 timing belt replacement thread with mbt47 - maybe he took measurements. I don't think that anyone here has been brave enough to try a belt change at home yet on the 1.2.

 

[Jean_Luc]

Thanks for the link. I know this article well and I asked to the author from where he took this info on fuel dilution in oil.
No answer. I know also mbt47.

 

[Mr Lee]

A mechanic friend of mine has replaced a timing belt recently on a Puretech 110 Citroen ( original belt fell apart & contaminated the oil system )

It was his first Puretech timing belt.

He said it wasn't as bad a job as a Ford Ecoboost 1.0 timing belt ( he is ex Ford main dealer technician )

Good practice for him as his wife has a 208 with a Puretech 110 under the bonnet 😅

 

[Jean_Luc]

Yes it is easier to replace the belt on a PureTech comparing to an EcoBoost...

 

[Mr Lee]

Yes it is easier to replace the belt on a PureTech comparing to an EcoBoost...

At least the Puretechs are not failing & needing complete engine replacement in great numbers.

I know of a handful of Puretechs being replaced but no where near the amount of Ecoboosts I know of.

 

[Jean_Luc]

Thanks for the info, Mr Lee

 

[OldSchoolMechanic]

It seems the Ford Ecoboost belt was intended to last the lifetime of the engine, so little thought of routine replacement was given, making it 8+ hour job requiring specialist tools.
If you look at early brochures for the PureTech engine, the belt was also intended to last a lifetime. Although it's an easier job, it's still not cheap.

 

[hpc3]

Hello,

Here is a picture of a belt of a C3 aircross PT 1.2 110 January 2019. 18.000miles.
We can see abnormal cracks and deterioration on the edge.
It is likely due to the fact that the belt inflates in presence of oil and heat and get damaged on the crankshaft sprocket guide.

hi jean-luc, i watch the caradisac forum each day the world is small i guess.

motor oil group1,2,3 are dino oils; gr4 is synthetic pao; and gr5 are synthetic esters+others.
modern 0wxx are not possible to make with only dino oils; they must use a lot of synthetics. (engine cleaniness, deposits, longlife...)
simple dino oil would not survive for long. and it´s big problem to make so low viscosity oils without synthetics.
another problem- low ash (low/mid saps acea c1,,,5) eco oil requirement because of gpf. these eco oils are less protecting the metal parts, than full saps oils. (acea a3)

esters make seals go bigger (stops oil leaks), and pao shrinks the seals. so every oil is fine balance.
we can think this is same rule also for the chemoprene rubber used in the belt.😅
in general, pure esters and pao oils are used in racing, these have top parameters. (motul 300v, yacco galaxie...)
but i think they do not use wet belts in racing ! 😅

(some more , some less) esters with moisture makes chemical reaction, where acids are created.
therefore racing ester oils should be replaced <8000km (usa racing forum info - with motul representative)

city car with many short-cold driving will promote moisture in engine.😅
direct injection increases chance of fuel-oil dilution... and the start-stop makes this even worse 😅
oxidation+oil+fuel=varnish
oxidation+oil+fuel+water=sludge

i have lpg (i use gasoline minimal), and always used motul 5w40 xcess, which is a3/b4..
oil seems has not high group 4/5 content. mostly gr3, "inferior" dino hydrocrack.
lpg+fullsaps oil - i hope, will make belt last a little longer.😅

 

[Vainamoinen]

hpc3 your car is without turbo but 110 and 130 puretech turbo needs correct oil grade. Newer puretech (6.2 and 6.3 euro emission standard) 0w20 grade oil

 

[hpc3]

yes this is 2017 non turbo model without eco-tragedy start stop.
what a stupid age we are living in - when engine and oil is so crippled in the name of ecology that it refuses to stay alive

puretech turbo needs correct oil grade.

also this engine would be happier with 5w40 fullsaps. (at least the metal parts for sure) (and according to some studies, fullsaps oil handles better lspi)
this 0w20 eco nonsense is used only because - fuel consumption, and protection of gpf.
my simple catalyst costs 700€, i dont know how much costs the new gpf. maybe arm and leg😅
funny fact- if oil viscosity goes below _w40 , engine will consume oil. it´s because the oil is so thin. volkswagen will tell you 1l/1000km is "normal"
here manufacturers fall into endless spiral.. more oil consumption-->oil saps content must be lowered, so the exhaust systems will not die during warranty😅 (from soot)

 

[Jean_Luc]

Hi
Thanks for the infos hpc3
I'm going to learn a bit more all this oil specification and possible FX on wet belts

 

[hpc3]

no problem

Base Oil Groups Explained
example of oil contents,
--10w40 dino oil gr2/3 ~90% https://www.yacco-bulgaria.com/uploads/yacco/products/cars/vx-premium/VX 500 10W-40/3031YA1212_VX 500 10W40 - 2015 12 11(BG_ EU-bg).pdf
--b71 2296 5w40 acea a3 gr2/3 <50% https://www.yacco-bulgaria.com/uploads/yacco/products/cars/lube/LUBE FR 5W-40/3054YA1314_LUBE FR 5W-40 - 2015 12 11(BG_ EU-bg).pdf
--b71 2312 0w20 acea c2 50% gr4 pao https://www.yacco-bulgaria.com/uploads/yacco/products/cars/lube/LUBE P 0W-30/3061YA1273_LUBE P 0W-30 - 2015 11 17(BG_ EU-bg).pdf
--with racing oils, the dino oil content is minimal <5% (oil additives are not soluble in pao) and the rest is gr4+5

(esters are biodegradable, and not health risk; so they are often not mentioned in msds) we can expect the ester content will be similar to pao.
one warning though, msds is not a oil recipe, it is meant as safety document.

i start to think running a oldschool mineral oils 😅

 

[hpc3]

one idea - before oil drain, remove oil filter and blow pressure air into this hole(s).
it should go to oil pump and oil suction pipe. i hope this would free the debris on suction mesh, push into oil.
(before doing it, remove oil cap)

 

[lewolved]

Acording the what has been said, my service book recomends two oils for the engine. Total Activa Total Quartz Ineo ECS 5w-30 or Total Quartz Ineo First 0w-30. Which one to use?

 

[save2]

Depends how cold is your weather.

 

[lewolved]

Wel it gets -15 ın winter andplus 30 degrees celsius in summer generally

 

[Jean_Luc]

one idea - before oil drain, remove oil filter and blow pressure air into this hole(s).
it should go to oil pump and oil suction pipe. i hope this would free the debris on suction mesh, push into oil.
(before doing it, remove oil cap)

I don't think that the air will go through the oil pump and you need to evacuate the debris. I think it is better to remove the crankcase. The hole you point is (I think) for a fixation.

Crankcase:
Crépine = oil pump strainer
Courroie de distribution = cambelt

Oil circuit (EB2 atmospheric, similar for a turbocharged).

Concerning the oil PSA recommend (In france):
0W30 PSA B71 2312 C1/C2
0W20 PSA B71 2010 C5 (from 2018)

 

[save2]

Wel it gets -15 ın winter andplus 30 degrees celsius in summer generally

So take the 0W-30 . Will flow better in freezing temperatures.

 

[Jean_Luc]

Here is the pressured oil circuit.
Note that if too much belt debris enter in the oil filter, the pressure will increase and the filter may open its bypass valve.
If you accelerate too much with a cold engine, you may also make the bypass opened.
This have a consequence of polluting the pressured oil circuit and can damage the vacuum pump resulting in loosing braking assistance (cause of the recall).

 

[hpc3]

i was thinking how to release debris from strainer, without any engine disassembly.
blowing into oilfilter hole, made sense to me.

i think, debris wouldn´t be a big problem, if it would stay on bottom . and then remove it with oil service.
but it seems it floats around in oil pan...