Look at live data readings for fuel pressure and cam sync white/grey smoke is usually bad combustion due to poor fueling

 

So, this is the readings that came from my tester when i cranked it up at around 2000 RPM

fuel pressure regulator = 26%
measured Fuel pressure = 572 Bar
calculated fuel pressure = 28,08 mm3/knock
Cylinder 1 fuel regulating = 0,45 mm3/knock
Cylinder 2 fuel regulating = -0,33 mm3/knock
Cylinder 3 fuel regulating = 1,62 mm3/knock
Cylinder 4 fuel regulating = -1,89 mm3/knock
voltage supply, divergent nozzle = 80 V

Hope this is what you ment.
Also is it supossed to run idle at 800 RPM?

 

Fuel pressure looks ok

Probably best if you could post up ALL live readings you can get

 

I've just tested the car for all live data i can pull out from it.
All this testing is with full throttle pedal, as it will say in the file.

Link for the PDF file(Online read) http://docdro.id/IZN37N3

But there is one thing i find a little strange. Under datalist 10 in the file. When idle it ranges from "-4bar - 10bar" while with full throttle it ranges from "19-59" not sure if this is normal, but would be gratefull If you'd have a look and can make a diagnostic from it

explanation:
On testing it says 1999, and the car is from 2001. That is because the ECU were recently replaced after the old one were fried due to engine wire loom shortet.

Regards Marius

 

Fuel temp is -18 thats not right it should be close to engine temp there is a sensor in the pipework with a 2 pin plug this measures temp they do go bad and i suppose this could be part of your problem

 

I can see that is not right. But could that be a problem that would affect the throttle? i'll see if i can find the sensor and maybe give it a cleaning or take a sparepart from our 99 rusty 406 spare car.

 

Some toubleshooting has been done, and she is still standing still.

The fuel temperature sensor has been replaced and is now showing the correct numbers.

The timing belt is changed, and fist nicely.

The only thing know is that the Crankshaft and camshaft is still not syncronized.

Do anyone know a way to test the sensors? I don't want to buy new parts it those i own already works.

I'll kep you guys updated on the problem, and would like to hear suggenstions aswell

 

The sensors wont alter cam and crank sync readings crank sensor is working if you are getting rev readings you cant actually test the cam sensor in planet check the wiring to the cam sensor

Sync is measured ok when cam and crank are at TDC at same time so cam signal may not be getting to ecu properly

 

We might have found the problem. When we took a look at the two ECU's they were not the same. We tough because it was the same motor type(RHZ) and only 2 years older it would be. But it seems like there is a difference inside the shell.

We found that the original ECU had been damaged after the short in the engine room. So 2 traces are broken. We'll try to fix them later and hope for the best because the older one won't let it out of limp mode.

I'll keep people updated on this fault.