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Installing subwoofer in Peugeot 5008 2017+

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#21 ·
Hi Sorry to hi jack this thread but I am also trying to get to the bottom a similar problem but only had a limited response.
Q. If using a SOT lead to power a sub are the speaker signals from the lead broken i.e need feeding back or are they piggy-backed off? The lead I have seen for a Peugeot 508 CT10PE01 has 4 iso plugs. Is anyone able to explain to a non audio person how to wire to an amp using this type of lead with 4 iso plugs? Thanks.
 
#22 ·
BiGK said:
You won't have a line out on your headunit, no manufacturer standard headunit has line outs... they wouldn't make it so easy.

You'll have to install something like: https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product-m-alpine-mrv-v500-p-32727.htm (Or if you wanna keep it Focal, it's £500-600 for the amp!)

What you do there is get a suitable Parrot SOT lead, insert it between the original headunit and the car loom. The "output" from the ISO lead goes into the Amp (separate power cables required, DO NOT power from the loom!) and then the output from the AMP goes into the "input" from the ISO lead.

If you are lucky, you might be able to get Peugeot Planet to tell the headunit to put itself into Amp mode, turning the speaker outs into line outs (I don't have a 5008 or equivalent car so can't test unfortunately)

When you get the OEM subwoofer, can you remove the subwoofer and use a multimeter on the resistance settings, I need to know what resistance the voice coils (and how many voice coils there are) to give you an idea on how to wire it all up :)
Click to expand...
What about an amp/sub that accepts high level inputs instead from a stock radio?:thumb:
 
#23 ·
Rear speaker signal

Hello. I own a 3008 (2017) but since it is a 5008 without a tail I think all the wirings and audio equipment are more or less the same.
The standard head unit of the car is the Bosch PSA RCC A1, with 21W class D amplifier. (small unit size, no heat sinks necessary, relatively high distortion but overall good quality).
After a lot of scrutinizing below the platics and carpets, I guess that the only way of upgrading audio system is getting high level signal from rear column harnesses.
Then you can put a flat sub below back seat, 2 dash speakers at the back and an amplifier again below back seat to power the additional system.

The TOUGH part of the exercise is to find out which cables are the speaker cables in the column harnesses.

Does anyone know the colour coding? I will very much appreciate the help.
 
#24 ·
#25 ·
Thank you so much for the reply. Indeed it is a quad lock but I wouldn't dare to mess behind the unit. I'd rather go for the column harness since the cables are fewer.
Did you actually managed to get signal?
Do you remember the cable colors departing for the rear speakers?
 
#26 ·
No my install is different I am going from behind the head unit on a 508. Is going for the wiring loom down the side of the car any easier? It may not be easy doing it this way as colours can change further up the loom. Only way I can think of is to remove door trims and pop a speaker out and hope its the same behind the panel wherever you tap in. Speaker cables will be different sizes to cables for lights, power etc. Sorry I can't be of more help.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Quorashy said:
I found out today the front door tweeters are pioneer which is pretty good but when i detached one tweeter and connected it to the center speaker plug to check if its working but there was no sound though when i connected it, i think it might need to be programmed by peugeot planet but i am.excites to know if the rest of the loom for subwoofer and rear tweeters and amp are there?.....
Click to expand...
I found the electrical diagram for both 4 channels version vs 12 channels. Unfortunately from looking at the diagram, it looks like the output and wirings are different.

Link for the 12 channels diagram
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Link for the 4 channels diagram
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#28 ·
reply to satts1

Yes, I think that going to side harnesses is easier (see photo) - less cables. Thick grey and green/yellow are for 12V supply - some other must be for window and lock. Two of them should be for speaker. I started checking cables with multi meter. I will provide update as I move on. No guarantee that inside the door the colors will be the same as outside.
 

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Discussion starter · #29 ·
Panos from A said:
Yes, I think that going to side harnesses is easier (see photo) - less cables. Thick grey and green/yellow are for 12V supply - some other must be for window and lock. Two of them should be for speaker. I started checking cables with multi meter. I will provide update as I move on. No guarantee that inside the door the colors will be the same as outside.
Click to expand...
I have completed front door speakers replacement installation last weekend. I figured before I do the hard stuff like installing new amp and sub, I'd do the easy bit first. I'm about to post some install photos but not sure how do you guys upload largish photos as this forum has limited size for files that can be uploaded (97.7kb). Does the file size limit goes bigger once I post more? :)

Here is the wiring colours that I found:
Light Brown/cream, left door front tweeter (+)
Dark Brown, left door front woofer (+)
Grey, left door front tweeter (-)
Pink, left door front woofer (-)

Light Brown/cream, right door front tweeter (+)
Red, left door front woofer (+)
Blue, left door front tweeter (-)
White, left door front woofer (-)

Note that my car is Right hand drive, so left front door is passenger side.

My 5008 is 4 channels version, so the twitter wires were jointed in parallel with the woofer at the woofer's connector. This actually makes the aftermarket crossover installation very easy. I just cut the loom at the woofer socket and use the original wires for the twitter output from the crossover. No need to thread new wires for the twitter like a lot of car installation do.
 

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Discussion starter · #31 ·


Yes, the blue clip is the hardest
part of the whole install. And taking off the door trim without breaking the fasteners are almost impossible. I ended up breaking 6 out 10 fasteners on my first door and 4 fasteners on other door. Luckily I could get some after marker replacement.

If you do break the fasteners bits, make sure you remember to pick up the broken bits that fell off to the inside of the door or they’ll rattle and drive you insane. I used a long wire with balled up glue at the end to pick up those fallen bits.


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Discussion starter · #35 ·
The steps of taking the front door trims:
1. Undo the tweeter housing triangle and disconnect tweeter - the housing is secured by 1 plastic fastener on the top and 2 plastic tabs on the bottom, they’re easy to pull off with just bare hand.
2. Pry open the door handle window switches fascia (use a plastic flat tool to slip in between the leather and the plastic and gently pry small section at a time. Then disconnect the connectors.
3. Undo 2 screws just below the handle bar and 1 screw at the bottom center of door trim
4. The most I found difficult: Pry and temporarily lift to create a gap on side of trim so you can see “the blue fasteners” with metal pin. There are 2 of these, Pull these pins down with some kind of hook (check photos above). Perhaps others can share other method. Don’t forget to push the pin back after trim come off so you don’t forget when installing the door trim.
5. Start prying then fasteners from around the edge of door trims. There are total 10 of plastic fasteners. Be prepared to break some of them and don’t panic. I think they’re meant to be disposable anyway. Getting some replacement will be handy.
6. Once the whole trim is open, there is 1 more connector you need to disconnect.
7. You’ll have access to the woofer!




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Discussion starter · #36 ·


A pair of focal ps165f to replace factory woofer.

Image


Check out the depth difference between the factory vs the ps165f. The stock speaker is so light it feels like made of cardboard.
Luckily the door has more than enough clearance to house extra depth without any spacer needed. The factory speaker ring fits perfectly. The only modification needed is drilling extra holes for the screws.



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Discussion starter · #37 ·
Image


I put in some sound deadener on the inside of the door. It’s worth while doing as to be expected Peugeot only stuck in a small square patch of deadener.

I also peeled off the styrofoam waterproof panel that covers the door cavity and replaced it with sound deadener material.

Image



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