[Mikejt90]

It's an auto switching multimeter. I've never liked it but it was the only one available same day when I got it

 

[Ian M Davis]

It's an auto switching multimeter. I've never liked it but it was the only one available same day when I got it

All good meters have auto scale. The meters with a switchable scale are a real pain to use. The only problem is yours is displaying a value while it auto ranges. Most meters show OL or 0V.

 

[Ian M Davis]

BTW I am starting to suspect your lock is jamming when it's fitted to the steering column which results in one of the components of its PCB failing. There are lock simulators around for some cars. I am not sure what this is: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005934090010.html

 

[Mikejt90]

BTW I am starting to suspect your lock is jamming when it's fitted to the steering column which results in one of the components of its PCB failing. There are lock simulators around for some cars. I am not sure what this is: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005934090010.html

That is what I initially thought due to the fact it wasn't bolted in place at first. If I pushed down on the lock, as if the bolt was holding it tight from the bottom, it seemed to operate. There were a few times were it didn't though. Mainly locking, I didn't always push it down when switching ignition off.

However, due to the fact it wasn't bolted in place, surely it should have just pushed itself away, unless there's a physical mechanical stop that is released by it being securely in place. I did notice the screw seems to go alongside a metal clip when driven in. Don't know if that is anything to do with it. There is a metal clip on the other side of the hole too, you can see that one on the right hand side on the picture below. The screw also lifts the pin at the top which locates in the top hole on the steering column to secure it from the top.

Another point to add, I tried to re-program the second steering lock when I broke down the second time and got the message "already programmed" so it was obviously communicating with it in some way. Can't do any more tests on that now as I've sent it back. But do still have the original. Perhaps I'll plug that in and see what result I get if I try to program that one.

That emulator you linked to says it's unavailable. I did look for one for my car but was unsuccessful. I'll try again!

 

[Ian M Davis]

That is what I initially thought due to the fact it wasn't bolted in place at first. If I pushed down on the lock, as if the bolt was holding it tight from the bottom, it seemed to operate. There were a few times were it didn't though. Mainly locking, I didn't always push it down when switching ignition off.

However, due to the fact it wasn't bolted in place, surely it should have just pushed itself away, unless there's a physical mechanical stop that is released by it being securely in place. I did notice the screw seems to go alongside a metal clip when driven in. Don't know if that is anything to do with it. There is a metal clip on the other side of the hole too, you can see that one on the right hand side on the picture below. The screw also lifts the pin at the top which locates in the top hole on the steering column to secure it from the top.

The lock should stay in place without the sheer bolt. There should also be a lug holding it in place.
The procedure for removing the steering lock says that once you remove the shear bolt (5) you need to release a lug (g) on the opposite side of the lock by means of a screw driver. Hence, if the lug is there on the new lock you shouldn't need the sheer bolt to hold the lock in place.

 

[Mikejt90]

There is a lug on the other side, but it's the sheer bolt that pushes it up in the first place. Without the sheer bolt, the lug is not engaged. It's not spring loaded or anything so just sits inside the lock.

 

[Ian M Davis]

I would expect the lock to extract a pin from the steering column when unlocking. If that's the case and the pin jams in the steering column won't trying to releae the lock pull the lock body towards the steering column.

 

[Mikejt90]

It would, however I think it's unlikely to jam. Given the complexity of the lock, the actual column part is straightforward.

The steering shaft looks a bit like this but much wider "splines"/grooves

The actuator on the lock simply locates into one of those. The only way it could get stuck, is pressure on the steering wheel.

It wasn't getting stuck in the locked position, it wasn't throwing it across. There's a square "window" in the column leading to the shaft where the lock sits. It's possible the lock was catching on that. However, you could freely move the lock unit in and out of the column, so I'd have thought if the actuator wasn't fitting through the hole, it would have just pushed the casing outwards

 

[Mikejt90]

Update (again!)

Purchased a steering lock emulator from a company in Portugal, fitted that today and all seems fine!

I stripped the old lock back to see if there was a reason why it would jam or fail to operate if not properly secured to the steering column.

I found that this black metal catch had to be pressed down in order for the locking pin/bolt to move forwards and/or backwards. I'm guessing this is why the second one failed before I'd bolted it in place.

So to anyone changing a steering lock, do not try and operate it or switch ignition on and off until you have properly secured the lock in place!

 

[Mikejt90]

Further update in case anyone has this problem in the future:

When I installed the emulator, I also changed the engine compartment fuse/relay box for a used one. I started having issues with the unlocking of the car (wouldn't unlock after a few minutes, basically when the BPGA relay shuts off half the power), so I put the original box back in, the unlocking was then fine, but I got a "steering lock fault" on the dash and no ignition. I also had a fault code "B1622 11 Ignition positive relay inverted status fault" it was a permanent fault and said it was a short circuit to earth.

I put the "new" fuse box back in and the car started again and the B1622 fault cleared. So it would appear, although the steering lock was getting a 12v supply, and a voltage on the communication pins, that the engine compartment fuse box was at fault.

 

[florentinvasile]

I have the same issue, electronic imobiliser fault Peugeot 508 2.0 163 allure manual start stop

 

[Mikejt90]

The steering lock and ignition positive relay were the same as the faults I had.

After much testing, I replaced the under bonnet fuse/relay box (same model in a Citroen DS5) (You may need to configure it to your car using diagbox)

And the steering lock (you will need your 4 character security code, available from Peugeot main dealer or there's someone on here who can get them for a small fee)

I tried a new steering lock before changing the fuse/relay box, but that one broke too... As I was still looking for the actual cause, I ordered a steering lock emulator from Portugal. I had to de-solder the connector from the PCB of the steering lock and solder it onto the emulator. You could cut the plug off on the car side and solder the wires directly.

 

[florentinvasile]

Hi I don’t know what fuse box/ relay are you talking about sorry

 

[Mikejt90]

Hi I don’t know what fuse box/ relay are you talking about sorry

PSF1 on this diagram, it's the fuse box under the bonnet (not the fuses directly on top of the battery)

 

[florentinvasile]

That would be why I can’t start the car and have the problem with electronic engine imobiliser?

 

[Mikejt90]

Could be... It could also be something else, but that's what I found to be the problem... The "ignition positive relay" fault you have, I suspect is relay 6 on the above diagram. You can't just change the relay, they are soldered in place and the box is gel filled. I'd start by sourcing a second hand fuse/relay box with the same part number, and then either a new steering lock (not second hand), new shear bolt (you will need to drill the old one out) and get your key programming code from Peugeot.

You will then need someone with diagbox to configure the fuse/relay box and program the steering lock.

 

[florentinvasile]

Hi, coming with an update I still have an electronic engine imobiliser fault and still can’t start the car any help please
I will upload the codes error down below
The following systems is abnormal:

Engine ECU 1 problem exist

1.P0215 Principal Relay Intermittent

Built-in Systems Interface(Bsi) 15 problems exist

1.U1F00 Fault Event Not Stored In The Faults Log Permanent

Intermittent

2.B180E Fault In Authenticating The Hands-free Remote Control Not Present In The Reader

Intermittent

3.B180F Fault In Authenticating The Mechanical/Electronic Key Or The Hands-free Remote Control Present In The Reader

4.B1278 Fuel Sender Fault Intermittent

5.U1F30 Fault No Communication With The Hands Free Kit ECU Intermittent

Intermittent

6.U1F28 Absence Of Communication With The Steering Wheel Switch Module

Intermittent7.U1F35 Absence Of Communication With The Electronic Key Reader8.U1F44 Absence Of Communication With The Alarm ECU 9.U1F43 Absence Of Communication With The Air Bags And Pre-

tensioners Unit

10.U1F42 No Communication With Air Conditioning ECU 11.U1F3E No Communication With Telematic ECU 12.U1F25 Absence Of Communication With The Instrument Panel 13.U1F27 Absence Of Communication With The Multifunction

Display

14.U1F38 Absence Of Communication With The Instrument Panel

Matrix Display

15.U1F36 Absence Of Communication With The Stand-alone

Telematic Unit Or The Service Module

Intermittent

Intermittent

Intermittent

Permanent

Intermittent

Intermittent

Intermittent

Intermittent

Engine Wiring Housing 1 problem exist

1.U1F00 Absence Of Recording In The Faults Log Present

Hands Free Kit 1 problem exist

1.B1734 Accesses Locking Sensor Fault (Front Left-hand Door) Temporary

Rain/ Brightness Sensor 1 problem exist

1.U1802 Vehicle Speed Data Fault Intermittent

Services Module 1 problem exist

1.0D80 GSM Module Internal Fault

Switch Module Under The Steering Wheel (Top Of Column) 1 problem exist

1.B1836 Transponder Aerial Fault Temporary

 

[Mikejt90]

Some of those faults are the same as what I had. However, some are not.

I would try live data on your diagnostic tool on the immobiliser/central locking module and seeing if the keys are being detected. It should show each sensor.

Will the car start with your key in the key reader? Do you have 2 keys? Have you tried both?

 

[florentinvasile]

Hi I’ve tried both I can’t start the car with both keys funny things is the car sees the keys when in key reader or not in the key reader but still won’t start, can’t even put the ignition the second I press start I get ELECTRONIC ENGINE IMOBILISER and nothing happens, it is so frustrating

 

[Mikejt90]

Do you still have the steering lock fault? I couldn't see it on your latest list. And the ignition positive relay fault?

The symptoms seem the same as what I had. Couldn't get ignition or start, keys were being recognised by the reader but car wouldn't start.

You may get more fresh eyes and attention if you start a new thread, maybe reference this one as it's similar symptoms and mine was resolved