Update (again!)

Purchased a steering lock emulator from a company in Portugal, fitted that today and all seems fine!

I stripped the old lock back to see if there was a reason why it would jam or fail to operate if not properly secured to the steering column.

I found that this black metal catch had to be pressed down in order for the locking pin/bolt to move forwards and/or backwards. I'm guessing this is why the second one failed before I'd bolted it in place.

So to anyone changing a steering lock, do not try and operate it or switch ignition on and off until you have properly secured the lock in place!

 

Check F8 in the BSI1.
Check F19 in BFH3.

Don't think this will be a fuse issue. The gearbox has something going as well, that is stopping starting.

 

Relay 6 in the engine compartment fuse box isn't switching when start/stop button is pressed. The main relay is switching. I'm not sure if that's because it's not getting the ok from the immobiliser to switch on, or if it should switch THEN check the immobiliser, but it should also switch off power to the steering lock which it isn't doing.

 

UPDATE:
New steering lock programmed and the ignition came on, car started.

However:
I got the message "turn steering wheel to make unlocking easier" despite the lock not being engaged. I thought perhaps because it wasn't bolted in place, it was catching somewhere as it seemed to go across when I pushed down on the lock unit.

Driving the car felt as if the brakes were stuck on. When I got out, the brake lights were on. I played about with the pedal and got them released, drove much better. Until I got a gearbox fault and it went into manual and wouldn't go past 3rd gear. This fault seems to be the brake pedal position sensor.


I was on the way to the Peugeot dealership to buy a new bolt at the time, and got the dreaded "electric immobiliser fault" when I stopped. I'm back to square 1 (no dash, no ignition, cars stuck at Peugeot until I can tow it home. The master tech at Peugeot said he's not known anything like it and would have to look at it properly to find out what's going on, he did say the BPGA can fail and cause some odd problems.

So I know it was the steering lock causing the no start issue, and that something is taking the steering locks out very quickly. BPGA? relay in the engine compartment fuse box? Something else?

 

BTW I am starting to suspect your lock is jamming when it's fitted to the steering column which results in one of the components of its PCB failing. There are lock simulators around for some cars. I am not sure what this is: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005934090010.html

 

That is what I initially thought due to the fact it wasn't bolted in place at first. If I pushed down on the lock, as if the bolt was holding it tight from the bottom, it seemed to operate. There were a few times were it didn't though. Mainly locking, I didn't always push it down when switching ignition off.

However, due to the fact it wasn't bolted in place, surely it should have just pushed itself away, unless there's a physical mechanical stop that is released by it being securely in place. I did notice the screw seems to go alongside a metal clip when driven in. Don't know if that is anything to do with it. There is a metal clip on the other side of the hole too, you can see that one on the right hand side on the picture below. The screw also lifts the pin at the top which locates in the top hole on the steering column to secure it from the top.

Another point to add, I tried to re-program the second steering lock when I broke down the second time and got the message "already programmed" so it was obviously communicating with it in some way. Can't do any more tests on that now as I've sent it back. But do still have the original. Perhaps I'll plug that in and see what result I get if I try to program that one.

That emulator you linked to says it's unavailable. I did look for one for my car but was unsuccessful. I'll try again!

 

There is a lug on the other side, but it's the sheer bolt that pushes it up in the first place. Without the sheer bolt, the lug is not engaged. It's not spring loaded or anything so just sits inside the lock.

 

Could be... It could also be something else, but that's what I found to be the problem... The "ignition positive relay" fault you have, I suspect is relay 6 on the above diagram. You can't just change the relay, they are soldered in place and the box is gel filled. I'd start by sourcing a second hand fuse/relay box with the same part number, and then either a new steering lock (not second hand), new shear bolt (you will need to drill the old one out) and get your key programming code from Peugeot.

You will then need someone with diagbox to configure the fuse/relay box and program the steering lock.

 

I think the code Engine ECU 1: P0215 Principal Relay Intermittent is quite significant. There are two possibilties:
(1) Problem with the relay in the BPGA (fuse box on top of the battery)
(2) Relay R1 in the main engine fuse box provides power to the engine ECU. If that is not closing properly the engine ECU will not turn on. If you have a multimeter it would be worth checking if there is voltage at fuse 30 when the ignition is on. Note fuse 30 is a 30 Amp fuse.

Normally, I would expect the P0215 code to relate to relay R1 in the main engine fuse box but the long list of BSI faults also makes me suspect there may be a problem with the BPGA. When you unlock the car do the mirrors fold out?

 

BSI Reset / Battery Disconnection / Reconnection - French Car Forum

Having used only key'ed system, try explaining what I think you need to do.
Basically, there should be a place to put the fob, while having the system "on' but not starting, you need to wait about 3 minutes to align them again. Then attempt starting and then everything should be back to normal.

 

Hi, thanks for the reply. That's the guide I followed.

There is a key reader to the right hand side of the steering column, in that compartment that opens. According to my diagnostic tool, that reader is reading both keys correctly.

I've followed the guide with the exception of having the system "on" as it will not come on, I do not get ignition (normally I'd press start without my foot on the brake to get ignition without starting the car)

 

Give me the Engine Designation Code from positions 6,7,8 of the VIN and see if I can find something more specific.

 

Thank you! It's 9HD

 

Also, the battery voltage is approximately 12.5v after being on charge overnight. Would it be worth trying a new battery or is that not likely to be the issue here?

 

See if tappers off, a bad battery will sometimes accept a charge, but it won't hold it. So if you see under 12.0v in the next few hours, off charge, not hooked up. Be a good sign, the battery is end-of-life. Also, not saying you have, don't sit battery on concrete for any period of time, it helps kill them, on wood always, is a pro tip.

See if these attachments provide anything useful to the issue.

 

Some info from diagbox below. Engine ECU seems ok, gearbox ECU seems to be preventing starting. Connection to diagbox is for very brief durations. Ignition isn't coming on so that may be why?

Thank you. Voltage had dropped to 12.1v, worth replacing the battery before doing anything else? Or is that unlikely to be causing the starting issue?

 

Fault B1836 00 means there is an open circuit detected on a *transponder aerial. The aerial is around the ignition barrel for non-keyless models, but not sure where it is on the keyless ones. See if I can dig up information about the wiring and locations.

*not sure if there is multiple on the keyless or how it works.

Hopefully can pull some information that useful about this.

Edit:
Just found this post (worth having a read through) and I am checking for Peugeot wiring diagram.
B1836 : transponder aerial fault - French Car Forum

 

PEUGEOT 508 1.6 HDiF DV6CTED (9HD) 2012 - Onwards

Key:-
PSF1 - BSM Engine compartment fuse box
BB00 - Battery
BSI1 - Bult-in System Interface
AE00 - Electric steering Lock
8235 - Engine Staring Switch
8239 - Electronic Key reader
2120 - Break Twin Switch
1032 - BPGA Electrical supplies and management system
1031 - Battery Status Unit
1012 - Centralised Voltage maintaining system
C001 - dignostics connector
BFH3 - Cabin relay fusebox 1
1010 - Starter Motor
1320 - ECU
1021 - Reversible Alternator
1026 - Energy Accumulator

I have driven to detail of things I think worth checking after layout the whole system for starting. @Ian M Davis might be the worth seeing if he replies about what to check or how.

Wiring Diagram (engine starting, assumptions - with stop start, with keyless entry)

Detail 8239

8235

AE00

BFH3

 

Thank you for the help, and the attachments. I don't know what I'm looking for really just checked all the fuses in "BFH3"

 

Right, brand new battery installed. Faults cleared. Still the same.

I have noticed however, the gearbox supply voltage is 11.6v, battery voltage is 12.7v. the battery terminal also sparks and smokes a little when first connected (no load, vehicle off).

Do you know where the gearbox ECU is located? I think I need to check the connections around there?

The key reader is reading both keys, I think the aerial fault I have is possibly one of the 3 aerial's not performing as it should be, but I don't think it is preventing the car from starting, as the reader should over ride that.

 

Update:

All fuses were ok.
I was advised to check steering lock CAN pin voltages and was getting funny values (38v and 0v)

Same on the OBD port
(Testing between pin and ground)
Pin 0: 0v
Pin 3: 2.51v
Pin 6: 38.3v (pulsing between that and 0v)
Pin 7: 10.26v
Pin 8: 2.51v
Pin 14: 38.44v
Pin 16: 12.6v

If I disconnected the gearbox ECU, pins 6 and 14 read 2.5v

I have since cleaned the following earth point just in front of the front wheel arch cover that was filled with mud (silly place to put it):

I've reconnected the gearbox ECU and I'm now getting around 1.4-1.77v on pins 6 and 14 on the OBD.

I put everything back together (electrically anyway) and cleared as many faults as I could, still getting the same immobiliser fault.

I tried another BSI reset (following the battery disconnect procedure). Now I still have the same fault but the alarm goes off constantly and will not turn off with the key. I've pulled the alarm fuse and it's still going off so I've disconnected the battery and it stopped after about 5 mins... had to leave it for now as I can't have it going off all evening.

 

Pin 6 and 14 on the OBD are now showing more realistic voltages.

New steering lock plugged in (not programmed yet) still no dash or anything but I no longer get the immobiliser fault on the dash.

Either the steering lock was causing the starting issue, or the fact the new one isn't programmed yet isn't allowing the system to go to the next stage (which may then take me back to square 1). I'm crossing my fingers for the former. Need to wait until Monday for the PIN code to program it.

 

Do you know where the gearbox ECU is located? I think I need to check the connections around there?

Need the whole VIN to access this for you (check your pm's) or use the website Peugeot (ssg.asia)
Mechanical -> Gearbox assembly -> Gearbox -> Parts -> ELECTRONIC BOX

I'm not sure if that's because it's not getting the ok from the immobiliser to switch on

The Immobiliser only stops the ECU from start condition.

New steering lock plugged in (not programmed yet)

I will pm you.

 

Further update:

I think the 38v was down to my multimeter. It seems to jump to 38/39v then drop down to 12.6v when testing various fuses. I disconnected the battery and got the same result. The same same still happens on pins 6 and 14 of the OBD socket, jumps to 38v, then drops to 2.4v/1.6v respectively.

So now I'm thinking engine fusebox or BSI?

 

You are using DC and not a AC reading, just checking ?

 

It's an auto switching multimeter. I've never liked it but it was the only one available same day when I got it

 

All good meters have auto scale. The meters with a switchable scale are a real pain to use. The only problem is yours is displaying a value while it auto ranges. Most meters show OL or 0V.

 

I would expect the lock to extract a pin from the steering column when unlocking. If that's the case and the pin jams in the steering column won't trying to releae the lock pull the lock body towards the steering column.

 

It would, however I think it's unlikely to jam. Given the complexity of the lock, the actual column part is straightforward.

The steering shaft looks a bit like this but much wider "splines"/grooves

The actuator on the lock simply locates into one of those. The only way it could get stuck, is pressure on the steering wheel.

It wasn't getting stuck in the locked position, it wasn't throwing it across. There's a square "window" in the column leading to the shaft where the lock sits. It's possible the lock was catching on that. However, you could freely move the lock unit in and out of the column, so I'd have thought if the actuator wasn't fitting through the hole, it would have just pushed the casing outwards

 

Further update in case anyone has this problem in the future:

When I installed the emulator, I also changed the engine compartment fuse/relay box for a used one. I started having issues with the unlocking of the car (wouldn't unlock after a few minutes, basically when the BPGA relay shuts off half the power), so I put the original box back in, the unlocking was then fine, but I got a "steering lock fault" on the dash and no ignition. I also had a fault code "B1622 11 Ignition positive relay inverted status fault" it was a permanent fault and said it was a short circuit to earth.

I put the "new" fuse box back in and the car started again and the B1622 fault cleared. So it would appear, although the steering lock was getting a 12v supply, and a voltage on the communication pins, that the engine compartment fuse box was at fault.