Insulation tester will verify whether the electrical internals of the injector are ok, theres also a possibility it may be mechanically worn or faulty, there are places that will test your injectors if you wanted to remove it and send it away to be tested properly, its not free but if your unsure it will give you confidence in replacing it, injectors aren't usually cheap to buy new, not the good ones anyway.

 

Yeah I know about testing, I was hoping for a way without removing the injector or swapping the injectors around. Thanks for the advice though

 

What is the EDC from the VIN ?

 

It's 4C9HR8

 

Its virtually impossible to check your injectors without specialist equipment as they are Piezo injectors. They are a common failure on this engine once you get a few miles/years on them.

You could swap the injectors but its not a 2 min task. you have to remove the fuel return pipe from all the injectors then disconnect HP pipe to the injector and remove the injector clamp bolt and clamp. You will need to either anneal or replace the copper fire ring washer on the injector and its best to recut/clean the injector seat to ensure that when refitted they don't leak.

Once swapped or fitted you will also need to recode the ECU with the changed/swapped injector codes.

If you do replace the injector shop around using the Siemens/Continental part number printed on the injector. I would not recommend a recon injector as they are not much cheaper and the reused Piezo stack is just as likely to fail as the other injectors and it will be used

 

Its virtually impossible to check your injectors without specialist equipment as they are Piezo injectors. They are a common failure on this engine once you get a few miles/years on them.

You could swap the injectors but its not a 2 min task. you have to remove the fuel return pipe from all the injectors then disconnect HP pipe to the injector and remove the injector clamp bolt and clamp. You will need to either anneal or replace the copper fire ring washer on the injector and its best to recut/clean the injector seat to ensure that when refitted they don't leak.

Once swapped or fitted you will also need to recode the ECU with the changed/swapped injector codes.

If you do replace the injector shop around using the Siemens/Continental part number printed on the injector. I would not recommend a recon injector as they are not much cheaper and the reused Piezo stack is just as likely to fail as the other injectors and it will be used

Yeah the car is on 121,438 miles now and I found out not long after buying it that the injectors start failing around this milage. I know the work involved removing them and I've got some help from a family friend who is a mechanic if I need it I just don't want to go throwing money at it if it's a wiring issue so wanted to try ruling it out if I could without removing the injector.

I tried clearing the codes this evening but it just comes straight back when I start the car so I think I'll just order the injector and replace the others if it fixes it

 

Before you start changing parts, give the wiring to the injector a thorough check to make sure it isn't chafed anywhere.
Also, if you do get it going, it might be worth running some injector cleaner through the fuel system.

 

I decided to just buy two new injectors and swap injector 2 and 3 until next month and order 2 more for cylinders 1 and 4.

I pulled injectors 2 and 3 out, tested injector 2 again with the multimeter and yeah it's definitely shorting. Not sure why I was getting a normal resistance reading when it was in the car vs being taken out. Both came out surprisingly easy but injector 3 has been leaking

Here's the reading for injector 2

And injector 2 (right) and injector 3 (left)

I'm just waiting for my injector cleaning kit to turn up so I can clean the bores and fit the new injectors

 

I decided to just buy two new injectors and swap injector 2 and 3 until next month and order 2 more for cylinders 1 and 4.

I pulled injectors 2 and 3 out, tested injector 2 again with the multimeter and yeah it's definitely shorting. Not sure why I was getting a normal resistance reading when it was in the car vs being taken out. Both came out surprisingly easy but injector 3 has been leaking

Here's the reading for injector 2
View attachment 126842

And injector 2 (right) and injector 3 (left)
View attachment 126843

I'm just waiting for my injector cleaning kit to turn up so I can clean the bores and fit the new injectors

What Ω scale are you selecting on your meter? The resistance for piezo injectors should be very high e.g. 200kΩ i.e. 200,000Ω. It is common for faulty piezo injectors to read the correct resistance on a multimeter. They need to be tested at around 100Volts - see