What ohms reading do all you injectors give? This sounds like a wiring problem which is rare on this car.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Hi David,

Thanks for helping. Assuming that injector 1 is gearbox side of the engine, here are the resistances of each of the injectors:

Injector 1 - 15.2 Ohms
Injector 2 - 15.0 Ohms
Injector 3 - 15.3 Ohms
Injector 4 - 15.3 Ohms

I have replaced injectors 3 & 4 although the originals had resistance values of much the same.

These are the resistances when the engine is cold. I've not checked when the engine is hot as I've seen these faults appear within a minute from cold.

If it could be a wiring problem, any obvious places to check that could be common to all these faults? The engine wiring loom looks to be in good condition but I was hoping it could be something common like an earth or positive supply.

Could one fault trigger the others? They all seem to appear together even after a short journey.

Although I can check the knock sensor and injector wiring fairly easily, I've no idea where to start on the Supply Relay Control or Control Unit faults. I imagine these are fed from the engine fuse box?

Thanks again,

Steve

 

Ok they all look ok. Once they're all the same. Did you check for a short to body also?
Pm me last eight of chassis no. so I can look up wiring diagram for you.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Hi David,

I've tested continuity from the positive terminal of the battery to the engine block when the battery negative terminal is disconnected and I see 482 Ohms.

I'm assuming I should be seeing infinite resistance?

Is there a better way to test for a short to body?

Thanks,

Steve

 

I meant short to the body of the injector. From each pin to its body.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Hi David,

In that case, no. There is no connectivity between either of the pins and the body of the injector. I have tested all 4 and all looks good.

Thanks,

Steve

 

Hi Guys,

Quick update following some troubleshooting over the weekend. I've taken the wiring out of the loom and tested connectivity between the ECU connectors and various components but everything looks to be fine.

I'd heard that sometimes the engine wiring loom (which runs under the air filter) can get corroded but no signs of any damage.

I've also removed and cleaned the connectors on the fan relays as they weren't looking too great.

Injector 4 open circuit seems to be its favourite fault at the moment. The earth connection to PIN 16 (black 16 pin connector) in the engine fuse box seems fine and from the splice in the loom all checks out. And the connection to the ECU looks to be good too.

Any other ideas?

I'm now thinking BSI or ECU which makes sense for the P0215 and P0606 faults but not for the others.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

 

I have the same problem!

Hello. I have the same problem with Peugeot 307 2.0 RFN, but I still can not find a problem. The spark plugs was very bad, and I think that they are the problem. I change engine ecu, but with old spark plugs, and th eproblem is the same.

 

I would say that having the engine management light on for MOT won't be a fail just a advisory well it was like that last time I knew about it, however VOSA have a way of changing things regular so check with MOT station pre test so you don't waste your money.

 

What mean VOSA?

 

This is the fault

 

Is your car a 206 or a 307. The chassis on that is a 2.0 307!

Actually i see now you've posted in the wrong section.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

my car is Peugeot 307, but the problem is the same, and the engine is the same.

 

When I got this message on my 407 it was a 30 amp fuse that broke, it is for an air pump between the inlet and outlet and the fuse is sitting in the Engine room. (Sorry for my bad English)

 

Anti Pollution and CAT fault

I've been dealing with my problem for almost 4-5 years as it has been very intermittent. (since petrol prices went over £1)

I own a Pug 206 GTI 2004 and this is always been extremely annoying but a simple turn off and on of the engine while driving (not advised lol) and the car comes out of LIMP MODE and gets back full power but the engine light warning stays on and every time its started i get Anti Pollution and CAT fault.

The only reason i got around to a resolution was cause my car would start but the throttle was not responding so i was unable to revv the engine/drive and only had the aid of the clutch every other week.

So i found out i had some bad wiring in the loom for some engine wiring components, which was resolved and fixed the car not revving but i still had the BIG ANTI POLLUTION & CAT FAULT WARNING!

I read a few forums and asked a friend and he advised that my car was a performance car and I should not run on cheap supermarket petrol and advised i tried BP and Shell for a while. 98-99RON it was then i started with a little top up of injection fuel cleaner from the petrol station and decent additive fuel 95RON+.

Low and behold I've never had a problem since and I started with the super unleaded 98RON for BP and moved onto the SHELL Nitro. After a few week of full tanks i decided to see if i should run basic Shell and BP petrol 95RON and this worked with no errors, even in the cold weather and quick starts i'm warning free.

 

Update

Just an update for anyone who is having a similar problem.

A number of people have been in touch thanks to this forum and appears it is a fairly common fault certainly on the RFN engine.

I have now replaced the ECU and the wiring loom and am continuing to see the issue appear.

Not sure where to go with this now but at least if anyone else is having this issue, they may not need to spend money on replacing ECU and wiring.

If anyone has resolved this or knows anything else to try please let me know.

 

Resolved?

Just an update for anyone who is having a similar problem.

A number of people have been in touch thanks to this forum and appears it is a fairly common fault certainly on the RFN engine.

I have now replaced the ECU and the wiring loom and am continuing to see the issue appear.

Not sure where to go with this now but at least if anyone else is having this issue, they may not need to spend money on replacing ECU and wiring.

If anyone has resolved this or knows anything else to try please let me know.

I know this is a very old thread, but I just wondered if you resolved the problem? I have absolutely identical symptoms with a 2002 206CC and was just going to replace the ECU when I read your post in which you said that didn't cure your problem. I was therefore wondering whether you got to the bottom of it?

 

On a Danish Citroën forum the same issue was up for quite some time, the Fellow tried all kind of things except the thing that also shows up in the fault codes twice in the first post, the knock sensor, at last he changed that, and the fault was gone.


Holt

 

Ironically, of the 6 codes the OP listed, I have 5 of them, but the knock sensor is one that I don't have! But I will test it just to make sure. Thanks for the information...