Seal for life, what a joke!!!!

307 2.0 HDI T6 auto ATF oil change?

22nd post how to do it, but read the rest for ATF and what works that not Peugeot labled.

Cheers George

 

The described way of draining and refilling the box to the correct level is not always as simple as that. He describes removing a torx stud from the middle of another stud. They have changed that ages ago to just the outer stud which makes it hard to know what level the box is at.
These boxes are not sealed for life boxes otherwise there would be no drain plug or filler plug. Which there are both of on this box. Most auto boxes have some sort of facility to drain and refill their oil.
The long and short of it is people who own cars with auto boxes couldn't be bothered changing the oil in them.
Also there are muppet mechanics who haven't braincell between their ears who haven't a clue how to actually carry out the procedure coreectly let alone even recommend it done.

These boxes need oil changes every 40kmls/60kms religiously as they will break you if not minded.

 

Peugeot Australia informed me when I asked about the changing of the ATF for the AM6 auto that they were filled for life.
Here is the Peugeot 2010 Service Box work shop manual way of changing the ATF.
I say if you can be sure that your auto has the right level and never leaked out any atf then what you take out must go back in, and this means with flushing as well as I did. And if you wish to double check the level remove the centre plug from the main drain plug and check for the "drip drip" to mean it's correct.

Cheers George

 

Just a question, Im wondering what gearbox is in this car as above describes the AM6 box. I'm pretty sure that your car has the AL4 box. Will have to look it up to be sure.

 

The 307 2.0 petrol can have either the AL4 or the AM6 gearbox. So basically we need clarification of which it is before going through the fluid change procedures.

 

It is AL4 gearbox and looks like its a slightly later model... I spent a few day on google and forums before I found how to Haven't tried yet as only back from "weekend" break . Will post howto below in case someone will need this in future. Still can't work out why would gearbox overheat in traffic and start to slip in gears? I know from experiance that when automatic oil is old it looses most of it specifications but I can't believe it will have such effect on temperature?

Here is the way to do it (I hope):

"Thanks for all the help.
Con your files were a great deal of help as I was able to determine that my box was differant and I was not going mad! Correct info from A&B Transmission , over the phone very helpfull
The later AL4's are a little bit differant to the early ones.
They no longer have the small level check plug in the centre of the 27mm drain plug.
There is now only a normal sized level check plug , that when removed will allow excess oil to drain , if you wish to drain the whole gearbox you must insert a 8mm Allen key up the plug and unscrew and remove a plastic tube which will then allow the oil to drain.
This is not a plesant job as you have hot auto oil dripping on your hand while unscrewing the plastic tube. Another step forward in car design!
The car now has smother gear changes , so well worth the effort and cost. "

 

Same frustrating issue here



Hi guys

I am having the same problem with my auto 307cc. After being stuck in traffic for sometime, when stopped even though in D, it releases the gear. Once revving up the transmission suddenly kicks to first gear and jumps

My mechanic says the fluid level is fine, but wondering if draining and changing it could fixes this

 

Same frustrating issue here



Hi guys

I am having the same problem with my auto 307cc. After being stuck in traffic for sometime, when stopped even though in D, it releases the gear. Once revving up the transmission suddenly kicks to first gear and jumps

My mechanic says the fluid level is fine, but wondering if draining and changing it could fixes this

It's valve body. It only need service or replaced.

 

Can the cooler be upgraded?

Hi, I have a similar problem. 307 XSE 2.0 petrol, AL4 transmission. It has gear shift problems when hot. Usually after you stop, it can't find first and then does so with quite a bang.

This is an ongoing problem. It gets slightly better after a transmission fluid change, but then comes back again. I've adapted to it and can usually predict it, but nobody else will drive the car and my mechanic said it was undrivable.

It appears to be due to insufficient cooling. Can the oil cooler be upgraded without adding another separate cooler? (which is what my mechanic wants to do).

 

Before changing or adding oil cooler(s), are you sure the coolant for the cooler is circulating correctly? I'm thinking airlock or blockage.

 

Separate cooler is the best thing you can do with these boxes as the cooler they use is transferring heat from hot oil into hot water not ideal !

Your problem is with the valve body now though as its not working properly due to heat/contamination so although the cooler will keep it cool it will missbehave unless valves are sorted out.

 

Thanks for both those bits of advice.
I'll get my mechanic to check whether the cooler is working properly first.
I was then thinking to add cooling to see if that fixes the overheating and if so to then to do a flush and change the transmission fluid, which is likely to have been cooked.

 

How did this issue was solved?

How did this issue was solved?

 

How did this issue was solved?

How did this issue was solved?

It's been a while and there have been a few events over that time, but no improvement.

My mechanic rebuilt the transmission, replacing solenoids etc. It was a little better for a while, but went back to its usual bad behaviour. At about 95 degrees on the dash gauge, the transmission starts behaving badly.

I'm convinced this is the transmission fluid. The viscosity gets too low and all hell breaks loose. We're in Sydney, so it never gets below about 5 degrees Celsius, so I figure I can up the viscosity.

My mechanic is good, young and ex-BMW, but very reluctant to try this.

Any advice?

 

I agree with your mechanic. Adding the wrong fluid to mask the problem is not the recommended solution. A separate cooler seems preferable.

 

I had many problems with al4 transmission , so i decided to overhaul it . After overhaul only one issue remained with the transmission , losing of first gear when the box is heated up . To pinpoint the problem , the box is unable to engage E1 clutch . And its due to the heat and loose of viscosity of the oil . Exactly at the top temperature of opening the oil cooler solenoid .
One approach was to check the pressure at idle , from cold to hot . It confirmed the loss of presure by 1 bar , so i decided to tighten the main pressure regulator cap , which located beside main pressure limiter . By tightening it 1.5 turn , oil pressure came back to normal range and abit higher than normal (2.7 bar at idle) . So i had kick engaging first and second gear at cold and no problem at Higher temperature . But after few weeks again the problem appeared again .
Since hydraulic valve block during overhaul just got cleaned , i can say its defenatly something wrong with valve block or type of the oil , because al4 dpo transmissions , got upgraded oil . First fluid used by PSA had Higher viscosity , but new oil type has slightly less viscosity . To solve this problem , i will change the main pressure solenoid , remove half a turn tightness on main pressure regulator cap . If problem didn't fixed , i will monitor oil temperature and engine temperature and functionality of one of two progression valves which i think responsible for oil cooler circulation . If i found irregularities with the valve i will change both progression valves (unbelievably there is absolutely no info on functionality of progression valves even in PSA rebuild manual ) . If all didn't help , i will do something i generally don't like , but it might help , i will add viscosity enhancer .

 

Hello everyone, I have a car 307 sw and I am facing the same problem, did you find a solution

 

Best to start your own thread detailing the exact problem and what if anything you have done to fix it. Cars history would help and type and size of engine as well as gearbox model.

 

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