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206 No Hot From Heater Vents

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9K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  Balrim  
#1 ·
Hello, me again!

The heater controls in SWMBOs old 1.4i 2000 206 seem to work other than nothing gets hot or even warm from the vents.

A mate reckons "common fault.....a bit of plastic breaks on them" but as to what???

Any pointers?

Cheers
 
#2 ·
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Joined: Jul 11, 2011
Posts: 15
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Kent



An update. Went to change the radiator. All looked good size wise comparing new to old. Ran a cleaner through the system before draining down. Took the old rad off and flushed out lots of old rusty crud. Went to put the new rad on and realised it needs another of the little rubber blanking caps/jubilee clips for one of the unused ports.

Put the old rad back on for now. Filled up with coolant and bled.

Running as before but still no heat from the heater.

Is it worth changing the thermostat?

As an aside as I was topping up the expansion bottle I spilt water down over the auxilliary belt and the annoying whine that's been there for years disappeared. I thought the noise was from thd PAS pump as per my other thread. The noise came back soon enough though, guess the water acted as a lubricant? Suspecting maybe the alternator tensioning pulley as if, with the engine running I squirted water at that from a plant sprayer the noise stopped.
 
#4 ·
Thanks. I bled one pipe by the bulkhead. Little thing like a tyre cap.

Ref the noise does that suggest a new tensioner complete is needed? Is it not just maybe slipping and not driving the noisy pulley so fast?

The noise changes in pitch as you turn the wheel even if stationary which is why I changed the PAS pump.

Cheers
 
#5 ·
The noise changes because your putting more load on the belt when steering as the pump needs to pump fluid it may just be the tensioner is worn and not holding the belt tight enough my mondeo is really noisy and i know the tensioner is the culprit.

As for the heater are both pipes hot ?
 
#6 · (Edited)
The noise changes because your putting more load on the belt when steering as the pump needs to pump fluid it may just be the tensioner is worn and not holding the belt tight enough my mondeo is really noisy and I know the tensioner is the culprit.

As for the heater are both pipes hot ?

Thanks. Just been out with an infra red laser thermometer. Ran the engine for 15 minutes, revved it a bit to get the temperature up. It wasn't that cold to start with:

Temperature gauge at 90degC - halfway

Where the thermostat fits to the block, block side at about 90-95degC. Rubber top hose immediately after the stat 70degC. Top hose where it enters the rad 65degC.

Bottom hose cold by comparison, 30degC

Rad itself cold all over to the touch

Hoses on the bulkhead to the heater. Top one with the bleed screw 30degC. Bottom one 50degC.

Put heater on inside car, lukewarm.

Just to note it didn't feel tbh like there was water in the top hose to the radiator. Easy to squeeze and not "firm".

Could this be a thermostat issue?

Just got a new one to fit and it says 89degC on it.

Cheers
 
#7 ·
No the coolant is not flowing through the heater rad properly it should be practically as hot as the head Hose out the heater rad both ways to get any sludge out it and the heat should improve the rad being cold is correct as its meant to cool the coolant and thats what its doing.

Just so you fully understand the heater rad is fed directly whether the thermostat is open or closed so should be as hot as the engine at all times the stat only opens to feed the coolant to the radiator once engine is hot enough.
 
#9 ·
Yes you can do that flush it both ways till the water runs clear it can take a while though some washing up liquid in the pipe first can help.
The water flowing out should be flowing as fast as the water out the hose if its not its blocked as there is no valve for the coolant the heat control inside simply reduces airflow through the matrix to control temp the matrix is always roasting :)
 
#10 ·
Could I...with this heater core:

Assuming there's no leaks under dash (if there are I'll replace it), take a couple of pipes off from the bulkhead. Then fill the pipes with 50% phosphoric acid descaler and cycle it round this loop with a drill pump for a bit. Or maybe something a bit less aggressive.
 
#12 ·
Update. Changed the radiator (leaking) and thermostat (all red rust). Got up to temp and stat opened with a "whump" taking all the water from the expansion bottle. I rapidly topped up of course. Top hose on rad getting nice and hot. Fan coming in as it should.

I assume the stat stuck closed was why I only managed to drain 3L of coolant off originally when the book says 6?

I bled the top hose to the matrix and water coming out nice and hot but still no heat in the cabin. Matrix change next!
 
#13 ·
Update...

Car overheated on the school run. Top hose came away from the new thermostat housing I fitted last weekend. Not seen it (the old stat) yet or spoken to him but think the housing on the stat I fitted, split.

I was at work but BiL kindly replaced the thermostat and housing and topped up. His first guess was head gasket but now thinking water pump.

The water in the expansion bottle btw is clean as in not oily as far as I can tell.

Any suggestions?

Cheers