Check ALL wiring connections and earths under the bonnet wiring is a common issue on these dont keep disconnecting the battery you can make things worse and loose your key codes.

Unless you find signs of water ingress the ecu/bsi are NOT the issue.

 

OK I'm posting this here in case someone else has the same problem and tries Googling it. Don't trust Google! I found so much very worrying disinformation that could have cost me a lot of money. If I had been able to successfully perform a ECU/BSI reset I would have had huge problems from then on.

I could use the OBD2 reader and app to clear the fault code, the car would run fine for around half an hour, then the misfire would start again and I'd have to limp on 3 cylinders to where I was going.

Some websites reported that the error code is due to the Camshaft Position Sensor, so I ordered a replacement. Canceled it again once I realised that the Camshaft Position Sensor was reporting a fault, not because the sensor was faulty, but because the misfire was causing the camshaft to be in an unexpected position during that part of the ignition cycle.

When trying to start the car I was getting weird electrical issues (windscreen wipers moving, dashboard lights flashing) and the car wouldn't start. Turns out that's because the battery power was too low for the car to start. The battery was underpowered because a misfiring cylinder/pollution fault warning causes the radiator fan to run on full for a long time even after the ignition is switched off.

A jump start got me home but the misfire remained. Trickle-charged the battery overnight and that was sorted. So I thought I would look at the ignition system.

P1337 P1338 P1339 and P1340 are misfires on cylinders 1 to 4 (maybe not in that order). Could be either the spark plugs or the ignition coils so I reasoned that swapping the coils around but not the plugs would narrow down which; if I got the same code it's the plug, if I got a different code it's the coil.

Swapped the coils around, started the car up, went for a drive. Half an hour later the fault code cleared itself and the car's been running just fine since then.

I had the car logbook serviced by Midas a couple of weeks ago. I reckon maybe they got some grease or dirt on one of the contacts on the spark plug, and removing and reseating the coils cut through it. I'm hoping that's the case anyway.

So anyone else with error codes P1337, P1338, P1339 or P1340, don't panic and start with the easy fix first. Swap the coils around and see what happens. If the coil is dead, you can get replacements from Supercheap for $72.

Also, ditch the cheapo bluetooth OBD2 you got for $5 off eBay, invest $70 or so in PP2000 and a Lexia 3 cable.

 

OK I'm posting this here in case someone else has the same problem and tries Googling it. Don't trust Google! I found so much very worrying disinformation that could have cost me a lot of money. If I had been able to successfully perform a ECU/BSI reset I would have had huge problems from then on.

I could use the OBD2 reader and app to clear the fault code, the car would run fine for around half an hour, then the misfire would start again and I'd have to limp on 3 cylinders to where I was going.

Some websites reported that the error code is due to the Camshaft Position Sensor, so I ordered a replacement. Canceled it again once I realised that the Camshaft Position Sensor was reporting a fault, not because the sensor was faulty, but because the misfire was causing the camshaft to be in an unexpected position during that part of the ignition cycle.

When trying to start the car I was getting weird electrical issues (windscreen wipers moving, dashboard lights flashing) and the car wouldn't start. Turns out that's because the battery power was too low for the car to start. The battery was underpowered because a misfiring cylinder/pollution fault warning causes the radiator fan to run on full for a long time even after the ignition is switched off.

A jump start got me home but the misfire remained. Trickle-charged the battery overnight and that was sorted. So I thought I would look at the ignition system.

P1337 P1338 P1339 and P1340 are misfires on cylinders 1 to 4 (maybe not in that order). Could be either the spark plugs or the ignition coils so I reasoned that swapping the coils around but not the plugs would narrow down which; if I got the same code it's the plug, if I got a different code it's the coil.

Swapped the coils around, started the car up, went for a drive. Half an hour later the fault code cleared itself and the car's been running just fine since then.

I had the car logbook serviced by Midas a couple of weeks ago. I reckon maybe they got some grease or dirt on one of the contacts on the spark plug, and removing and reseating the coils cut through it. I'm hoping that's the case anyway.

So anyone else with error codes P1337, P1338, P1339 or P1340, don't panic and start with the easy fix first. Swap the coils around and see what happens. If the coil is dead, you can get replacements from Supercheap for $72.

Also, ditch the cheapo bluetooth OBD2 you got for $5 off eBay, invest $70 or so in PP2000 and a Lexia 3 cable.

Hello Peugeot fans, greetings from a cold and sunny Johannesburg in South Africa. First post on this forum, as I am sure happens here, mostly out of desperation!!

I have a 207cc 2010 1.6 Turbo model. She is my weekend car, I love her dearly, and she's in good condition with 150,000km on the clock.

I had the front wheel bearings replaced and took her out for a spin. I hadn't at this stage done the wheel alignment after the repairs (my bad) and when I got past 120km/h on the highway, the wheels and front steering started vibrating quite a lot. I cut back on the speed only to realise that there was now something wrong with the motor, it was running very rough. Engine light came on and I realised that the car was in limp mode.

At the time I didn't know what to think, but got her home and connected up my (rather basic Konnwei) OBD reader. It returned a P1337 code which indicated a faulty coil on Cylinder 1 on an initial search. I swapped out the coil with a new one, but no improvement.

Then further reading indicated that this error is related to the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I have had great difficulty in finding this sensor. I have not been able to get the car up on a lift to check on the underside between the block and the gearbox. I have searched and found a lot of differing info on where it is located.

Can anyone confirm with confidence where it is located? And does this CKP sensor fail often?

I suspect that the problem may be a faulty connection to the CKP sensor, loosened by the heavy vibration. Is that possible?

The vehicle details are as follows:
VIN No: VF3WB5FXCAE003380
Engine No: 10WASJ0602046

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Al.