Are you sure it's Mohms not Kohms? If Mohms then they look high, if passive sensors. Active sensors need testing differently. Try spinning the wheel with sensor disconnected and checking if you get a voltage - passive (if I remember correctly)

 

thanks Dave, I had my meter on Autosensing, and the reading was definitely 10.7MOhms...and the passenger side 1.6MOhms..it's a brand new sensor so I was hoping I could compare all the others to that one....I'll try the wheel spin test at some point this week...cheers!

 

Check your sensor type on gsfcarparts, abs sensor and fitment info. Mine come up as active sensors which send a digital waveform to the ecu rather than a voltage. I suspect that the resistance will be very different to passive sensor (and may not be significant as long as it is not open or short circuit). Voltage test is only for passive sensors.

 

ah good shout...cheers Dave!

 

My father owns 206 (2003) with 2.0 HDI DW10TD .
For at least for 2 years, ABS (ATE MK70) was not working.

There was only 1 fault, "ABS or ESP recurcilation pump locked on CO,CC - or CC+"
Checked almost everyting, fuses, pump, ABS module, even ordered used pump to replace it.

At the end, it happened to be ABS plug, seemed that connection was too loose.
Btw while troubleshooting ABS, I was connecting and disconnecting plug many times,
and fault with sensor appeared once as well.

 

thank you for this. cars can be quite fragile at times can't they!.. I think given the very high resistance, mine are active sensors. Apparently you can test them (disconnected) by hooking them to a spare battery, a resistor and an LED..spin the wheel and the LED flashes, might try that just for the hell of it !

 

well the plot thickens with this..... with the sensors disconnected, I measured the voltage at the harness end with the ignition ON. If it's Active it should be about 12v, I was getting about 300mV on both, so nothing really. Plugged both back in and still had ABS light with the ignition on, and then starting the car. I then disconnected the Passenger Rear. with ignition on and starting the car, ABS light on. plugged it back in, then disconnected driver's rear sensor. Same.. ABS light on. The I disconnected BOTH, turned on the ignition and started the car and this time, ABS light on, but also the STOP light was flashing. Plugged both back in and started the car again and back to just ABS light. So the ECU must know there are ABS sensors connected. Next step is to try and get the front ABS sensors disconnected and see what I get from that.

 

ok I did some more testing today. Research that a 2EKFWF 1.4 8v Peugeot 206 SW has ACTIVE ABS sensors. Measuring the resistance of the rears, are O.L on one pin and 11.5MOhms on the other, same for the passenger side and same for my new sensor. So that tells me the sensors are ok. So given I know now they're active. I measured the voltage at the harness end. Got nothing for the Driver's side Rear (should be at least 11.5v) and 8v dropping off on the Passenger side. This now leads me to thinking the ABS module in the engine bay is duff, and it's not the sensors.

 

might be useful

 

Thanks for this, very useful video!.. think my next step is to see if there's power getting to the ABS module..I know the 10A ABS fuse is ok, but I haven't checked the 30 and 40A fuses under the fuse box yet

 

In the photo below the DAM number is 1035389. PP2000 needs the first 5 numbers (10353 in the example). This number is called the RPO and is a date code.
10353= 14 March 2005
09915=1 January 2004
The last two numbers (or letters) is the factory code (89 Sochaux France).

PP2000 asks for the DAM number but only uses the first 5 digits (RPO).

I am sure your car is a 206 MUX but if you want send me a PM with your VIN and I will get the basic description from Peugeot Servicebox.

 

Interesting !...... in that case my DAM number is 015983

I'll have to get the VIN when I finish work as I'm in another car today ...blessed with more than one car!

 

I suspect transferring the ABS ECU off a working block will work but apparently it should be configuring using Planet so there is a chance it will not work properly.

You may be interested in this discussion https://www.peugeotforums.com/threads/peugeot-planet-buying-installing-using.336492/ In #1 Gibbo gives a link to his installation guides for the old Planet and Diagbox 7 software. For some reason he is using Windows 10 for Diagbox 7 which I find a bit puzzling because Diagbox 7 was written for XP. Maybe he couldn't get a copy of an older OS. The problem is Windows 10 will not work on some older machines. He goes to a lot of trouble to backup the OS. I have done a few installations including uninstalls and have never bothered backing up the OS but the problem is a failed install can leave a lot of files behind even when you do a uninstall and you need to find and remove them manually because the new install will not replace them.

BTW If you do install Diabox 7 stop at V7.57 you don't need the later patches for cars built before 2013. V7.57 is reckoned to be one of the more stable versions of Diagbox. Peugeot started adding restrictions to telecoding after V7.58.

 

I suspect transferring the ABS ECU off a working block will work but apparently it should be configuring using Planet so there is a chance it will not work properly.

You may be interested in this discussion https://www.peugeotforums.com/threads/peugeot-planet-buying-installing-using.336492/ In #1 Gibbo gives a link to his installation guides for the old Planet and Diagbox 7 software. For some reason he is using Windows 10 for Diagbox 7 which I find a bit puzzling because Diagbox 7 was written for XP. Maybe he couldn't get a copy of an older OS. The problem is Windows 10 will not work on some older machines. He goes to a lot of trouble to backup the OS. I have done a few installations including uninstalls and have never bothered backing up the OS but the problem is a failed install can leave a lot of files behind even when you do a uninstall and you need to find and remove them manually because the new install will not replace them.

BTW If you do install Diabox 7 stop at V7.57 you don't need the later patches for car built before 2013. V7.57 is reckoned to be one of the more stable versions of Diagbox. Peugeot started adding restrictions to telecoding after V7.58.

great

I suspect transferring the ABS ECU off a working block will work but apparently it should be configuring using Planet so there is a chance it will not work properly.

You may be interested in this discussion https://www.peugeotforums.com/threads/peugeot-planet-buying-installing-using.336492/ In #1 Gibbo gives a link to his installation guides for the old Planet and Diagbox 7 software. For some reason he is using Windows 10 for Diagbox 7 which I find a bit puzzling because Diagbox 7 was written for XP. Maybe he couldn't get a copy of an older OS. The problem is Windows 10 will not work on some older machines. He goes to a lot of trouble to backup the OS. I have done a few installations including uninstalls and have never bothered backing up the OS but the problem is a failed install can leave a lot of files behind even when you do a uninstall and you need to find and remove them manually because the new install will not replace them.

BTW If you do install Diabox 7 stop at V7.57 you don't need the later patches for car built before 2013. V7.57 is reckoned to be one of the more stable versions of Diagbox. Peugeot started adding restrictions to telecoding after V7.58.

great info mate thanks...looks like I'm doing some diagbox research ! 😀

 

Replacement ABS pump delivered courtesy of Ebay..... fingers crossed !

 

Replacement ABS pump delivered courtesy of Ebay..... fingers crossed !

View attachment 112351

I

Replacement ABS pump delivered courtesy of Ebay..... fingers crossed !

View attachment 112351

feels like it's been forever since doing this, but I've been doing stuff to my Z3...hopefully this will sort the issue. I'll try the controller part first, and if that doesn't make any difference, replace the whole unit and take it from there

 

ok so I thought this would be a 15 minute job.... 🤣... oh how I laugh ...

so for those that haven't removed the Controller before...to disconnect the harness.. you need to press in the top tab (with the four little fingers) in.. while you push the yellow handle down....

and as seen on the car

then remove the front trim and passenger headlight to get decent access....

after this it's supposed to be easy right?..... THREE ROUND TORX bolts to undo, pull the old controller off, push the new one on....yes ?

this is when you find out that two of the Torx bolts are rusted in solid.... tried a number of way to free them but being round Torx the options are limited

Think my only option now without trying the remove the whole unit (really don't want to touch those brake lines !!) is to drill the bolt heads off.

 

Have you tried some penetrating oil (e.g. WD 40). You need to apply it and leave for a few hours. The pipe threads look quite rusty so you may have a problem removing them if you have to replace the whole unit.

I have attached a couple of procedures relating to the ABS block and ABS ECU.

 

thanks Ian!..without replacing the whole thing, I might just drill the heads off of the Torx bolts.. I will clean up and soak those brake unions in WD40 during the week and let it soak and try again next weekend. If they won't budge then I'll the drill out

 

well it came to D-Day... swapping out the controllers.... plenty of reasons to hate round headed bolts... so as suspected I had to drill the head off one of the bolts from the Ebay controller

then I managed to remove the controller from the pump, unit looks lovely and clean inside

unsurprisingly I had to do the same on the one on the car

it still wasn't having it

Eventually I had to use a carbide milling bit on my Dremel

and it's finally off !!

slid on the replacement unit, bolted up and all good.....

all was now good !!….. ignition on and the ABS LIGHT GOES OUT !!!!

until I start moving.... and the light comes back on... and stays on until I turn off the ignition... so I think my only option now is to find someone else with Peugeot Planet to isolate where there fault is ..... or.... I swap out the pump as well......

 

Thanks for the update. Some images in the post is not displaying but the first two photos are there and it is interesting to see them. The parts list for the ABS block and controller says they need to be configured. My understanding this is not necessary if you replace the whole unit but is necessary if you replace one part.

One odd thing I discovered on 206 MUX GTi is it still had a speed sensor on the gearbox and I think the BSI used that instead of the ABS to get the car speed. The only 206 sold here in Australia was the GTi version so perhaps it was simpler to keeps the same system on all versions.

 

thanks Ian...really don't understand what's going on with the pictures..I saw that too and uploaded them twice because I got some random text displayed..it was looking ok on a PC but not on a phone.. with regard the unit I think I'm going to replace the whole unit...managed to undo all the unions on the replacement unit so if I manage to undo all the ones on the car I might be ok...the ABS light did go out as soon as I started the car and it was happy all the time I was stationary. As soon as I started moving, it came back on and stayed on. Interestingly, I don't get the pedal pulsating that I had before, or it's not as pronounced that I feel it through my foot now.

 

I think the problem with the photos is site related. Some photos on another thread also disappeared. Your problem with the ABS may be a configuration issue. The problem with changing the block is you will need to bleed the system. One 206 owner I know ended up having to replace a calliper after the bleed nipple broke and wasn't able to remove it.

 

I've bled my calipers before so I hope I'm ok..it's the ABS end I've not touched before as is obvious from the photos !.. the replacement unit is in far better nick, so I might bite the bullet and try replacing the whole thing....

 

SUCCESS !!!!!...

I took @Ian M Davis advice and went back to the original controller, with the thought that pump and controller need to be matched.

so I bit the bullet and bought a FOXWELL NT630Plus Diagnostics tool, a newer version of one someone recommended on a Youtube video when he replaced his ABS Pump.

Pardon our interruption...

It can recognise and communicate with most models of car and before I bought it, I made sure one of those models was Peugeot !!...... when communicating you can ask for SmartVIN, which then identifies your VIN number... it then asks you to put in the car code...so for me it was 015983 (but only let me put in 01598)..... it then identified the car as a "206MUX".

I asked it to run a live test on the ABS system... the result came back with "Right Rear Sensor - Permanent Fault"..... which ironically was the one I'd been playing with !.... when I did the previous testing having it plugged in the harness, maybe I should have waved a magnet under it.... anyhow... it said the Right Rear was faulty. So I surprised myself by managing to remove it without snapping it !!

installed and bolted in the new one... then asked the tool to run an ABS test.

It asked if I wanted to test the PUMP.... so selected yes.... and you could hear the ABS pump whirring. Then I was asked if I wanted to test each solenoid which then went through a series of tests. If I selected LEFT FRONT WHEEL, it suggested which side of the car to raise (not always the one you're testing ! this also requires you have your foot on the brake pedal during the test. Under test you feel the pump pushing against your foot.

on completion of the test, you lower the car....turn off and back on again..... and...... ABS LIGHT....... OUT !!!

took it for a drive, no pulsing of the pedal and no dashboard light !... happy days !!