http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums...forums/general-discussion-2/how-contact-member-peugeot-planet-diagnostic-28190/


http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/introductions-28/brief-faq-guide-new-members-83170/#post529130

 

leaking swirl valve diaphram is a common failure on the 2.2 which gives a over boost and other turbo related trouble codes and limp mode. The classic sign is overboost fault & limp mode kicking in when cruising on motorway etc.

You can verify if its the swirl valve by disconnecting the vac feed to valve (gearbox end of engine) and plugging pipe and then see if fault reoccurs (you can also check valve with vac pump to see if it holds a steady vac and it does not leak vac away)

 

Agreed but would have thought the Peugeot 'specialist' would have checked this out first!
You can see the swirl flap diaphragm operate, look on the right of the cylinder head you will see a black plastic capsule about 1½" in diameter with a plastic pushrod extending downwards connected to a lever. Once you can see it, let the engine idle then rotate the throttle cable under the centre of the windscreen so the revs go over 2,000, hold the revs and you should see the pushrod move smartly to open second set of 4 inlet valves. When working correctly it improves the low down grunt significantly. New diaphragms are about £35 from Peugeot.

 

Agreed but would have thought the Peugeot 'specialist' would have checked this out first!

I would agree the 'specialist' should know its a common fault however a dealers told me I needed a new turbo when I had the fault.

I was not convinced as the over boost did not occur when accelerating so got the vac pump out and checked everything and found the swirl valve fault

 

From my BMW 320d and 407 HDi experience, MAP (mass air pressure) sensor gets clogged up with carbon, leading to boost lost. Typical symptoms are power loss with engine management ligh coming on when trying for a quick over taking and going up the hill etc.

Best is buying the sensor but I always have got away with using electric circuit cleaner to clean up the sensor.

 

Many thanks to everyone's prompt response to my query - its taken me a while to have sufficient access and time to work on the 807. I've tried as you suggested windy1603 and also looked up previous posts and the suggestions of everyone on the thread to understand better what I am doing. Subsequent to some of the diagnostic approaches suggested (pushing up the stem of the swirl valve actuator, sealing the vacuum inlet and seeing how quickly it dropped - which was immediately) -I have now disconnected the ball joint between the swirl valve actuator and the linkage to the swirl valves, wired the linkage up so that the swirl valves are not restricting flow and pulled off and blocked the vacuum pipe that was feeding the swirl valve actuator.

A short test seems to be satisfactory start and low end power - but my impression (possibly optimism) is that higher rpm is pulling better. I am aiming to take the 807 for a protracted test towing a caravan in a couple of days time - and if no fault occurs will get the diaphram (or whole actuator) replaced.
Have looked at mass air flow sensor - some oily residue but haven't attempted a clean (or replacement) as I would like to eliminate one possibility for this highly intermittent fault at a time.
Once again thanks, I will post the result either way.

 

Hi, I'm glad you have it sorted, nearly..

Just for the record I have had my swirl flap electrovalve completely bypassed ( apart from the electric connection ) and my car runs fine and dandy on full-time 16valve...:thumb: