Just a side note. For the past few weeks I have noticed that if I dont accelerate harshly I get less smoke. Also, the less the car stands at idle the better my chances of not getting an engine fault error. So I have been monitoring and have not had an error at all although while at a traffic light I can hear and see how the car idles rough. While driving, if I release the accelerator regardless of what gear I get popping from the exhaust which to me indicates unburned fuel.

 

I finally managed to pull my engine apart. I have taken the injectors out and tested resistance. I can't seem to find the spec on them but I get 1.3ohm all across so I'm guessing it's probably right. I have checked resistance on wiring and continuity and all seems to be ok. All sensors seem to be ok too. I will test for leakage on the injectors tomorrow as last time I checked amd all selenoids were working. My o2 sensor before the cat was replaced in June so I think I'll pull the one behind the cat and see if it's maybe dirty. I seem to have picked up another issue on the auxilary water pump so I'll attempt to check that while it's all open. I'm a bit stumped to be honest because all readings seem to be good thus far. It really makes no sense to me.
Sorry it took so long, just needed time to get stuck in but I do appreciate all the advice you have given.

 

(7) Con't

If anything points towards E1 or other component failure that I have not provided testing for, there most likely is testing of wiring to it before condemning the component itself.

Hope you find this useful.

 

(7) Injectors
Haynes does not show resistance test from pin one of injector to pin two. I would get that as well and compare them / have a baseline for the future.
For nearly all Peugeot engines, piston one is nearest the gearbox, unlike most other manufacturers where it is to the front of the engine.

 

Ok so took both out amd cleaned. The map I included pics of before amd after, just had some oil on, no other debris. Maf was still clean but sprayed it again just to make sure. I attached a pic of the sample obd app I use while the car was idling after putting both sensors back, doubt it will tell you much but was worth a shot.

 

(6) Fuel Pump
FUEL TANK FUEL GAUGE (ssg.asia) looking at item (2)

While this is always electrical testing out, you should consider fuel filter, well before this point, because these can cause issue, more likely to cause leaning out issue, sometimes it becomes a case of stranger things. I note from the diagram on ssg.asia that external tank has one, but didn't immediately see one for internal tank version, this suggests to me, it might be part of the tank pump assembly in some vehicles and not sure which one you have.

When running this test, specifically 208-5fu-m3-p03-png - listen to the noise from the pump, should be steady and even RPM sound, if it isn't this, then suspecting the pump mechanism is worn and replacement is a good idea. Also consider it may have internal filter and this issue, not unheard (seen this on other vehicles) to have mechanical issue like hose split inside the tank too. Against this advice, is that logic says should lean things out.

Next up is each injector, but my wife also needs time... so this is a fair amount to get you started.

Hope you find this useful.

 

Thos will certainly keep me busy for a while. Thank you. I will get back to you once I manage to get through it all. Again, your help is very much appreciated and please go spend time with your wife!

 

(5) Fuel Pressure Sensor
PIPE SET INJECTOR (ssg.asia) we are looking at Item 5

 

(4) Boost Pressure Sensor with Air Temperature Sensor.
This should be Item 11 from the previous post with a 4 pin connector.

 

(3) MAP Sensor
Use this for the location information for the next two posts. INJ CALCULATOR SENSOR (ssg.asia)
This one is Item 12 on the diagram, (should be a 3 pin or got these mixed up).

 

(2) Mass Airflow meter with air temperature sensor

 

DTC P2192 System too rich at higher load
(1) Oxygen Sensor in front of the Catalytic Convertor

 

In the meantime, going to start publishing some general information that will be needed when doing checks. And be handy even if we nail it with the above.

Let me know if you have start/stop or not..

 

Before we dig in,
Take the MAP out, clean it in petrol or other solvent - let me know what the condition of it and what you find it in.
Clean the MAF with suitable MAF cleaner.

Clear the codes and let's see if this helps or does nothing.

 

Ok, I did clean maf but will pull out and try again. Will do map too.
Will get back to you once done.

 

Wow, I was not expecting a detailed response like this so thank you.
The strange this is that I get the code usually at standstill which also makes no sense as it's "high load" error.
If you are happy to help me out I will appreciate it. I can test whatever needs to be tested. Really appreciate your help.

 

The strange this is that I get the code usually at standstill which also makes no sense as it's "high load" error.

Your first post is amm very hard to read... let me have a think that information. It might click as something worth going for first.

 

PEUGEOT 208 1.6 THP GTi EP6CDTX (5FU) 2012 - Onwards

It's a long list of things it could be, we can narrow this if you can use multimeter and the order from likely to least likely but still possible. You also need to consider the testing will look at upstream causes that the list below will not. The devil is always in the details.

DTC P2192 System too rich at higher load (bank 1)

Your OEM part numbers and exploded views are here, VF3CA5FU8EW048828 (ssg.asia)

Vehicle characteristics

​ Model: 208 Body: 3-DOOR HATCHBACK Engine: INJECTION EP6CDTX Transmission: BVM6

What would you like to do from here, it takes time to produce the information for testing, and I'm happy to this if you're happy to dig in and find the source issue.
Things Haynes, hasn't considered will be bad fuel filter. I would start with this, even if it is new, you can get cheap or even expensive ones, that just don't work well.

 

I just replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs about a week ago thinking maybe it was an issue. Spark plugs because I got missfire on cylinder 1. Spark plugs were previously done in May. O2 sensor was replaced in June. It's bank 1 I'm guessing, the one before the cat.

 

Engine Designation Code from positions 6,7,8 of the VIN or the whole VIN.

P2192 is the only DTC or just the current one ?

 

Vin no. VF3CA5FU8EW048828
Yes that's the only code I get currently, I can clear it and it goes away for a few days and then returns.