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Peugeot boxer limp mode

5K views 31 replies 5 participants last post by  Jfs  
#1 ·
Hi all,

I have joined this forum in hope to find answers to an ongoing problem with my peugeot boxer 2.2 euro 5.

My van kept losing power and going into limp mode and after a diagnostic check it was throwing the code P0234 for turbo overboost.
Garage told me a new turbo would be required, albeit vehicle only done 77000 miles.
I would like to mention that on very cold days, start up would produce a knocking from engine for about the first 30 seconds and also that normal city driving wouldn't really show any problems. The real issues were when trying to accelerate up to 60 or 70mph and maintain this speed.
So anyway I agreed to get this work done and after collecting my vehicle after new turbo installed and driving vehicle home my engine management light came on again and vehicle went into limp mode.
Brought it back and garage said they would investigate further. After they had it several days, their diagnosis was that the EGR valve was not closing properly and a new valve would be required which I agreed to.
After this work was done they told me that they also performed an injector leak off test and the readings were not great indicating possible failing injectors as the next step if the vehicle was still low on power.
After driving my van home, nothing felt any different and the following day my engine management light was back on again along with limp mode.

At this point I'm now thinking, what type of diagnosis are they doing? As everything appears trial and error at my cost.
Taking matters into my own hands I decided to carry out my own leak off test.
Brand new test kit purchased, Connected up and did a 3 minute test concluding garage filling me with s***t as all 4 bottles leaked off the same amount which was around 15ml each give or take 1 or 2ml.

Thinking new injectors are not the problem here and certainly not wanting to spend more unnecessary money to put it right I'm running out of ideas what the problem could be. The exhaust appears to be emitting a rather large amount of exhaust fumes but they are not black sooty fumes. Could it be my DPF is blocked? If so would it not throw a code for DPF problem?
Any advice relating to this would be appreciated.

Cheers.

JFs
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Can you give us at least EDC, or the VIN Number (ideally the latter), VIN starts with VF3........... or VF7.............
And does it have start/stop or not, PSA were running with and without these systems.

View attachment 122339

Once have this check into testing and publish, if I have information about the system.

Also, can you post a picture of the engine, with cover off, what I want to look at is the CCV system (smaller pipe leading from valve cover back to intake system), because I already have ideas about the DTC and what it is.
Vin number is" VF3YCTMFC12770814
The vehicle does not have start stop.
I will upload a photo tomorrow during daylight hours.

Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
PEUGEOT Boxer III 2.2 HDi 130 PUMA C (4HH) 2011 - Onwards
E1 - ECU (1320)

View attachment 122353
View attachment 122354
View attachment 122355

I don't have pin-out graphics for this ECU, but the above is the full listing of all pins from the ECU. If these don't match up, will need to switch Peugeot wiring diagrams (SEDRE), will need the DAM/RPO details, and we can figure out the best way forward.

View attachment 122357


Hope you find this useful.
Hello and thank you for your very in depth response to my questions, it is much appreciated.
I will look further into this and post results.

I had an afterthought regarding my injector leak off test as I tested only at idling speed. Is this a satisfactory way of testing leak off? As mentioned previously my van is only experiencing a power issue when trying to accelerate up to speeds around 60-70mph as it struggles to get upto and maintain that speed especially if you come to a hill then the speed will just drop away.
That being said, should I carry out another injector leak off test at a higher rpm? Or am I wasting my time with that one?

Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I think you may be losing control of the air in the system, and the MAP sensor is used to make these final trims. I think air/fuel ratios are being lost. Which is similar to theory about injectors, except the testing seems to suggest they are working, proper diagnostics with Lexia would be useful as we could see what the ECU is seeing.

I'm just taking a different approach based on the DTC information given to date, and nothing suggesting injectors are the issue to me. We need to focus on clearing the codes first as ECU is clearing saying it does not know what is going on, either between the control of the turbo or the sensor that it uses.

Things like Lexia or equal for diagnostics, can give you live data while driving to see what the ECU is doing or trying to do or tell you why the ECU is getting it so wrong, and you are losing power. If the above testing does not pan out to find the fault, you're going to need the proper diagnostics to get to the bottom of this.

The CCV nature of the system means it is critical that it correctly knows the exact amount of air in the system, going to the cylinder.
Today I removed the map sensor and upon inspection it was relatively clean looking albeit with a light coating of dirt. Anyway I cleaned it up with solvent and road tested the van.
Verdict: still lacking power but perhaps a slight improvement to before, so with that being the case decided to order a new sensor anyway given its low cost.
I will post results of new sensor fitted once I receive it.

The engine I managed to photograph with the cover off so please see the attached, thanks.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thought I'd give another update following my most recent work.
I replaced the map sensor with a new original part and tested the vehicle and can confirm that the sensor is not the problem as vehicle still has no power.
After road testing I was looking around the engine and noticed signs of oil leaking from around the rubber injector seals at the rocker cover, I could actually see it passing when engine was running.
I decided to pull out an injector and noticed that the injector body was covered in oil. Surely this is not normal?
Would this mean most likely my copper injector seals have failed? And if so could this contribute to my lack of acceleration and inability to sustain a constant speed when driving up hill?

Also if this is the case then could it be related to the DTC of P0234 which came up in my diagnostic?

I have still to remove the other injectors as I will have to order the new seals and stretch bolts I need to replace these so will give another update once I'm at this stage.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Hi, I have done no wiring tests yet for the turbo.
Once I clean up injector ports and fit new seals im hoping this will resolve my problem.
If I find there is still an ongoing issue, then the wiring tests will be my next investigation.

Many thanks for your schematics and torque charts. This is very helpful.

Happy New Year to you and yours.👍
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Did you test the wiring for Variable Nozzle Turbine Motor ?
Have you run diagnostics and tested it functional control / actuator test ?
Open the inlet side of the turbo and looked at it ?
View attachment 123284


Sounds like you caught leaking before that oil, starts turning into glue, and holds the injector in, giving you a new lifting lug for the vehicle, which is a good catch.

Washer looks like items 15,14,17. Item (3) seems better than some other designs, don't think it will be an issue, the fork ones can bend and not supply enough downward pressure.
View attachment 123280

The bolts used to hold the injectors are not stretch bolts. So unless damaged, no reason they can't be reused. The holder clamps should be checked over, but as mentioned think they will be fine.

Hope you find this useful. Happy New Years.
I have a quick question regarding the torqing of the injector bolts.
The diagrams you sent me shows item 1 being torqued to 0.6 m.daN, is this then followed by a 360deg angular torque? Just making sure as I have read elsewhere of people snapping these bolts and want to be sure of what I'm doing.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Latest update regarding my boxer van.

Replaced all injector copper seals after extensive cleaning of the ports and reseating of them.
Fitted all new rubber top seals as well and torqued everything down to spec.

Road tested the van with fingers crossed and hoping for the best possible outcome but instead deeply saddened as its still driving just the same with no power and frequent limp mode.

This is now steering me towards testing the electrics as you mentioned previously.

I'll post another update once I have looked into this.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
When the turbo was changed, was it a complete unit including the electric variable vane motor, or just the turbo core?
If it was just the core, then I would suspect the electric variable vane motor or wiring is at fault.
Looking at the picture of the turbo in post #10, there is a push/pull rod from the motor to the lever for the vanes. I would have thought that with the correct diagnostic kit there should be an operation test to see if the motor/vanes are working correctly.
As far as I'm aware it was a complete unit, but I wasn't the one to fit it so cannot say with 100% certainty.

I will run some electrical tests with the information supplied to me from another helpful forum member and see how it goes.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Can anyone advise me on the location of the ECU for the variable nozzle turbine motor please.
Went to test this today but was struggling to find it.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
When the turbo was changed, was it a complete unit including the electric variable vane motor, or just the turbo core?
If it was just the core, then I would suspect the electric variable vane motor or wiring is at fault.
Looking at the picture of the turbo in post #10, there is a push/pull rod from the motor to the lever for the vanes. I would have thought that with the correct diagnostic kit there should be an operation test to see if the motor/vanes are working correctly.
Today I had a proper look under the van at the turbo to see if I could spot whether the whole turbo had been replaced or just the core.
It turns out that the whole unit complete with electronic actuator has been replaced as everything was shiny and new looking.
I reached up to see if I could manually move the actuator link arm to check for free movement whilst still connected but could not move it at all and did not want to apply any significant force.

Is this normal?

Or should I manage to move it by hand?

Should the turbo actuator move whilst the van is stationary and being revved up or only when the vehicle is moving?
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
PEUGEOT Boxer III 2.2 HDi 130 PUMA C (4HH) 2011 - Onwards

Variations during production and known ECU's
View attachment 122342

VF3YCTMFC12770814 (sgg.asia) for OEM part numbers and exploded views.
Vehicle characteristics
Model:Boxer 3
Body:GLAZED VAN LWB H2 TYPE 16
Engine:DIESEL TURBO PUMA C 96 EURO5 130HP
Transmission:BVM6



DTC P0234 Engine Overboost

Try cleaning the MAP sensor first with petrol or suitable solvent (take note of the conditions you find it, looking for excessive oil at this point from CCV system, another spot to check is just after where the pipe enters the intake system from the CCV, this system rarely throws DTC codes). A new MAP is not usually expensive but wiring to it might be the issue.

Also, we should look at this TURBO CHARGER only as a FYI subject at this point - the solenoid control for the vanes can be replaced rather than the whole turbo assembly and proper testing should be done to confirm that whole turbo replacement is needed. Generally, all intake hoses associated should be checked for any leaks / splits and undone clamps (had the last point happen on my engine - one didn't find until do the timing belt @ 100,000km and not sure if it was leaking or if was, didn't notice). Diagnosis can usually see this, not that throw DTC unless goes beyond what ECU can correct, and would show as positive trimming of the injectors, when at idle, which brings you looking for leaks.

Nearly always you see DTC for injectors when there is fault condition, so agree with your points above. In that, I would expect the ECU to know if lost control of an injector and to DTC, otherwise we are back to carbies, and why bother with the electronic control at all.

If you do find excessive oil, bring us looking at the CCV system employed (not looked into it yet) and will pool in the lowest point of the intake system, often the intercooler itself, can cause issues other issues. Our engines are similar, not identical, which is why just link my post about the summary issue I had with CCV (closed crankcase ventilation) system in use on it, 4007 Post #6

The ECU must account for all air in the system, which is why called CCV and not PCV system. They are basically similar systems, apart from this.

The below is electrical testing to determine a fault does not exist between the ECU to the sensor or control object associated with DTC P0234, this from Haynes 2018.1 VM, laid out in the order they say to check for possible cause and added few things I would go looking for above, in combination to the electrical testing.

INJ CALCULATOR SENSOR are the sensors in play with ECU for controlling the engine.

(1) Variable Nozzle Turbine Motor
View attachment 122344 View attachment 122345 View attachment 122346 View attachment 122347 View attachment 122348

(2) MAP Sensor
View attachment 122349 View attachment 122350 View attachment 122351 View attachment 122352
Image

Hi,

Yesterday whilst driving, my van was running worse than ever and went into limp mode again.
I checked DTC's and found a new one relating to turbocharger, this time short circuit to ground so im banking on your experience telling me an issue with wiring to the turbo looking to be most likely cause.
Today I went to disconnect the plugs from ecu to carry out the electrical tests.

Please see attached pictures.

There are three plugs, 2 of which carry 42 pins and 1 which carries 48 pins and they are numbered only.

The test procedures you kindly supplied show Terminals A42 etc so which plug am i looking for as I have no wire colour information?
I guess I could do a continuity test to find out but this may fail if there are broken wires.
Image

Image

Image
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
In your post #5 you have ecu pin numbers A showing 48 pins
B showing 53 pins
C showing 52 pins

These must be different to the configurations on my ecu.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Latest update regarding my non working turbo is....... well it's still not working!!!

I did manage to check all the wiring though between the turbo actuator and ecu first by doing a continuity test to work out which wires were which then followed by a resistance test on all the individual wires.

All values reading around 0.5 to 0.7 ohms.

I'm guessing now that this would mean the problem lies with my ecu??

If anyone can offer any more with this then that would be great.
What even would a replacement ecu cost for a boxer van?

I'll look forward to reading some replies.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Hi, I have gone back to the start again and followed all your instructions for the fault finding on the wiring.

It appears I had overlooked something as when checking resistance values on the map sensor to ecu I have found 1 wire between pin 1 and A28 which is reading around 1.4 ohms.
I assume this is the problem giving me all the headache so now have to find where it is broken.
I will post again when I have got further with this so fingers crossed a solution is in sight.

Many thanks as I could not have come this far without your help.

Regards