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Peugeot 807 - 2.0 hdi - no start, no crank, no communication ECU

7.4K views 20 replies 3 participants last post by  Lucho  
#1 · (Edited)
My Peugeot 807 (2.0 Hdi, 100 kW, 2013) is having starting/electrical issues.

First signs of failure were: when turning the key (starter position - 3) the startermotor didn’t do anything (no cranking or even clicking), there was just a soft/quiet click in the BSI (relay I guess). I did a second attempt turning the key and the starter cranked and the engine started. A few days later I had to retry 3 or 4 times before the starter cranked (and the engine started). The following day the starter refused to crank.

Car is immobile for over 4 months now (it has been checked bij AA, Peugeot garage/expert) but no solution. Peugeot garage did some checks (fuses, diagnostics, tried with another BSM, replaced BSI by a virginized one (he has reprogrammed this BSI) but still no cranking/communication with ECU. In the end (car was there for more than 2,5 months) he returned my car saying 'I don't have the time to solve this'.
So now I am 750 euros lighter (I had to pay for his work and the 'new' BSI).

I have purchased a Lexia/diagbox (full chip) and sedre (diagrams).

Car:
  • Peugeot 807, 2.0 Hdi, 100 kW, year 2013, 114.400 km (engine type - I guess - DW10CB)
  • ECU: Delphi DCM 3.5 – HW9666912580
  • BSM: R06 9675878780
  • BSI: 967847718001
  • VIN: VF3EBRHD8DZ......
  • DAM: 13343
Situation:
  • turning key (running position/position 1) : display lights up, engine warning light stays on, fuelpump is not priming (as it did before the problem)(I guess it is not an in-tank pump); headlights, radio, electric doors/wingmirrors … are all fine.
  • cleaned poles battery
  • Batterij fully charged
  • Checked earths and fuses (maxi fuses, fuses near battery, BSI, BSM/PSF1)
  • visually checked wires (no corrosion, …) + continuity and resistance test
  • beep test OK
  • Central locking works with remote key
  • did the BSI reset several times)
  • wiggling the wire harnass/loom 😉
  • BSM, ECU : dry, connectors were disconnected, no corrosion or anything, and refitted
I have double checked battery, earths (unfitted, cleaned and refitted), power leads, … .
  • OBDplug: CANwires resistance at OBDsocket: pin 6 (canH) – pin 14 (can L) : 60 ohms
  • can from ECU to ESP: ok (no resistance)
  • have disconnected multiple sensors (thinking it's a reference 5V issue)


Fault diagnose - see full report attached
BSI
9528 : absence of command of the starter
F015 : no communication with engine ECU
F406 : oil pressure sensor fault
F40A: oil gauge fault
ECU
Engine management ECU Communication error

voltage measurements (ign. on) : fuses BSI/BSM and 53VNR (ECU) - see report attached

I am not an electrical/automotive engineer so I am looking/hoping for some help in this forum. Though I have the wiring diagrams I don't have the expertise :
  • which wires should I focus on
  • how to I intrepete the measurements (what V is to be expected)
  • which wires are supposed to be 5V, 12V, ... .

Can anyone take a look at the fault report + voltage measurements please

What could be causing this problem? Is ECU dead/cooked? Is it a 5V reference issue (causing the ECU not to wake up)? Is it a ECU could it be a problem.


Does anyone have an idea to get my car running again or at least get the communication back with the ECU.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
I see that fuses 5, 10, 19 and 20V have no power. This means that relay R2 in the BSM has not closed it probably means that R1 has not closed. Relay R1 is the master relay and is controlled by the engine ECU over wire No 1226 (pin 8 of 28V NR - 28 pin black BSM connector). It should be at 12V when the ignition is off and go to 0V when the ignition is on. If this is not happening it could be due to a bad connection to the engine ECU or the engine ECU is faulty.

I have attached the SEDRE injection diagram which is more relevant to your problem.

EDIT
If relay R1 in the BSM doesn't close the engine ECU will not get its main power supply which would explain why the CAN bus is not communicating.
 

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#6 ·
I think the contacts have failed on relay R2. The problem is on some cars relay R2 only turns on when the key is in the crank position but given that you are measuring 9.6V with the MAF disconnected I think the relay is closing and the contacts are worn. The MAF will load the circuit so it makes sense you get some voltage when you disconnect it.

Can you back probe 28V NR pin 5 with the ignition on. It should have full battery voltage. If that is okay then you can try applying 12V to fuse 10 and then see if you can start the car. I suggest connecting to fuse 10 because it has the higher rating. Fuses 5, 19 and 20 also connect to relay R2.
 
#17 ·
One thing to do when using Diagbox is to check if you need to code the injectors in the new ECU. I checked Peugeot Servicebox and there is no procedure to change the injectors. However, it is quite likely your injectors will have a code number which needs to be entered into the ECU. If so there will be a set of four numbers from the car the ECU came from already entered you will need to change these to the numbers on your injectors. Diagbox is different for every model so I am not sure where to look but I would expect the injector settings to be under replacement parts.
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the reply. Yesterday evening - before i read your post - I was 'playing around' with diagbox and checking the ECU possibilities. Indeed there is a screen in diagbox to code the injectors. I was going to look into that this evening after a search on the internet/forum (the do's and dont's). The only drawback - so far - with the 2nd hand ECU is the mileage: in reality our car has 114k km, the replacement ECU shows 457k km. But I am not complaining, I got the car running again.
 
#3 · (Edited)
thx for the help. The wiring diagram of my car is a different one (ECU 53Vnr, 53VMR and 48VGR). But I get your message. Checked the wire 1226B on continuity and resitance (both ok). same for wire 1229B. I forgot to mention that the peugeot dealer tried with another identical BSM/PSF1 to rule out my PSF1 is faulty; which doesn't necessarily mean the 2nd PSF1 is a 100% good one.

Someone suggested to feed Fuse 5 with 12v. F5 should supply pin 6 of the 53v NR with power. Is that a good idea? Just to check if I get communication with ECU on diagnostics. I'm hesitant to do this; don't want to do stupid things.

I would like to try with a 'lookalike' ECU(Delphi dcm 3.5) just to find out if there is communication between ECU, BSI and diagnostics. I'm aware that the car won't start because of no match between ign. key, BSI an ECU but maybe that way I can check if it's the ECU that's faulty. Good idea?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Okay. Going by the VIN your engine is a RHD which is a DW10CTED4. I think this is the right injection diagram.

EDIT
Someone suggested to feed Fuse 5 with 12v. F5 should supply pin 6 of the 53v NR with power. Is that a good idea? Just to check if I get communication with ECU on diagnostics. I'm hesitant to do this; don't want to do stupid things.

I don't think that is a good idea it will not provide all the power to the engine ECU. You need to find out what is happening at pin 9 of 28V NR of the BSM.
 

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#5 · (Edited)
Tested startermotor (again) - I put 12V on pin2 5VJN (yellow connector on PSF1/BSM)
Startermotor cranked

Then measured fuses on BSM: different measurements as before - F5, F10, F19, F20 were now 9,65V instead of 0,07V
(I forgot to mention earlier all measurements were done when MAF was disconnected)

Measurements when MAF connected : F5, F10, F19, F20 : 2,38V

How to interprete this?

BSM 28VNR (when ign on)
  • pin 8 (backprobed): 11,1 V (goes to pin 11 ECU 53VNR)
  • pin 9 (backprobed): 0,8 V (goes to pin 28 ECU 53VNR)
 

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#7 ·
Faulty R2 (BSM)? The Peugeot dealer/garage claimed, while the car was with him for reparation, he had tried with an identical BSM/PSF1 but still no crank or comm with ECU.

I recently asked him to let me try again with that BSM (car is home after a 2,5 months stay at the garage) but no response ...

readings pin5 28VNR (while ign. on) : 12,5V
when applying 12V to F10 nothing 'new' happened. No crank, no comm with ECU.
 
#8 ·
It is now clear that the main power supply is connecting to the engine ECU. It is common for there to be no power on fuses F5, F10, F19, F20 until the engine is cranked or running. The other thing that often happens is the BSI will not allow the car to crank if there is no communication with the engine ECU.

You have already check the resistance of the CAN bus and 60 Ohms is correct. One further test you can do is measure the voltages at the OBD connector:
Measure the voltage at pin 6 to earth (pin5) it should be 2.5V or greater.
Measure the voltage at pin 14 to earth (pin5) it should be 2.5V or less.

Provide the engine ECU earth is in good order it is looking likely that the ECU is faulty. You idea of trying another ECU is a good one provided it has the same manufacturer part number.
 
#10 ·
You have already check the resistance of the CAN bus and 60 Ohms is correct. One further test you can do is measure the voltages at the OBD connector:
Measure the voltage at pin 6 to earth (pin5) it should be 2.5V or greater.
Measure the voltage at pin 14 to earth (pin5) it should be 2.5V or less.
This bas been checked earlier buth whitout a min-max function on the DVOM.
But I like checking everything double and triple and ...
Will also recheck the grounds on the ECU (a 'last' time).

Ian, I can't thank you enough for thinking with me and providing things to do/check and possible solutions !!!
 
#9 ·
I recently asked him to let me try again with that BSM (car is home after a 2,5 months stay at the garage) but no response ...
I meant by this I didn't get any response from my Peugeot mechanic/expert; even after a e-mail and a phone call.
I think it's time - whatever happens with my 807 - to move on to another mechanic in the future.
 
#12 ·
I was thinking about your problem overnight. Given that you found full battery voltage at fuse box connector 28V NR pin 5 it means the ECU should be getting enough power to run the CAN bus. The other power connections (Relay 2 -Fuses 5 10, 19 20) usually only turn on when the car is cranked. Although the ECU isn't directly involved with the cranking I have found before that cars will not crank if there is no communication between the BSI and ECU. I suspect the BSI inhibits the cranking. I suspect you have faulty ECU but it might be worth checking the continuity between:
Fuse box connector 28V NR pin 5 and ECU connector 53V NR pins 2 and 5.

There are companies that can test and repair ECUs. If your ECU is unrepairable in some cases they can copy the immobiliser data from your old ECU to a replacement.

BTW how did you manage to back probe the connector they usually have seals?
 
#14 ·
If I should choose to by a set 'ecu-bsi-transponderring-keys' does it have to be 100% identical = donor car identical to my car. Or are some sets intercompatible?
photo 1: my ECU
Image


photo 2: my BSI
Image


Would a set from a Peugeot 3008 or Citroen C5, DS4, DS5 be ok if same ECU (Delphi DCM 3.5 HW9666912580) and BSI (BSI04 - 967847748001)? Does it have to be same motorcode RHD/DW10CB?
for example: set ECU P3008 or set ECU Jumpy 2.0 or set ECU C5

My ECU will be sent to a company to test en if faulty to be repaired (if possible).
 
#15 ·
If the ECU has the same part number Delphi DCM 3.5 HW9666912580 is should be good enough to test your car. However, I can't guarantee it will work properly. The reason I say this is I was in a long discussion with forum member "Bald Eagle". He had a 308 CC 20 HDi and he found a ECU from a Citroen with identical part numbers to his. He was able to write the correct PIN to the ECU and the car would start but it had performance issues. There are two memories on the ECU: EEPROM and Flash. The EEPROM contains the immobiliser data including the PIN and the Flash memory has the car's profile. It wasn't until he copied the Flash memory data from an identail car that everything worked properly.
 
#16 ·
Update. I had to search quite some time for an ECU. My peugeot dealer - where the car has been previously for over 2,5 months - wasn't very helpfull (again). Despite he had the parts I needed, at least so claimed earlier.
I asked three times, very friendly and almost begging. But none of that was of any help. So, then I called some other peugeot garages but I was not a client and they were all too busy they couldn't help me the next 2 months.

Then I searched the internet, I found a set ECU (same part number)/BSI (same)/transponder in France for 220euros. It took some time before it arrived.
I replaced the parts and motor started - hurrah - however a bit irregular. The car/motor was immobile for 6 months.
There are plenty airbubbles in de the transparant fuel-out- line; could this be caused by the long period of no cranking/firing?

This evening I will diagnose with diagbox and see what faults there are.

I want to thank everybody who helped me, thinking with me. I have learned a lot of my car and that is thanks to you guys and the forum.
 
#21 ·
Hey Christoper

My car was a 'no cranker - no starter' ;)

I bouht a secondhand set 'ecu/bsi/bsm/key'. 'Simply' plugged them in and car started. I didn't have to code the injectors. Untill now (+10.000 km) the car is running just fine - fingers crossed.

IMHO the randomly fitted injectors is not the cause of not starting (but I could be wrong). It could hower cause power loss, irregular firing, ...

Have you tried the beep test:beep test
I might be immobiliser
Also check fuses, connections,

Video how to code injectors with diagbox: coding injectors

I'm sure you will find the solution. There is plenty of info on this forum and the internet.

Good luck.