Update after some work and driving the car today.

Found a hole in the pipe going to bottom of the intercooler. That explains the black smoke... Duck taped for now. Will replace once the car is running properly.

I put a gauge on the line from the turbo valve and was only reading 0.2 bar at the most, unchanging with RPM.
T he gauge before the vavle reads 0.7 bar

By passed that vavle, running the vacuum line directly to the turbo actuator. Plenty of boost. This means the actuator is working as intended? I ordered one anyway, as I've already replaced all the solenoid valves

Here's another problem!
Took it for a spin with vacuum lines back on the solenoid, running 50% repeat on DiagBox.
Revving over 3k and can hear a high pitched whistle coming from right hand side of engine bay. Held it for about 5 seconds then the turbo gets shut down! As in, Turbo position reference 0.
Tried this twice with the same result.

What the hell is causing that noise and killing the turbo? Is all this caused by a knackered turbo?

 

I was going to suggest the turbo itself before I read your latest blog. Try taking it off or gain access to it so you can inspect it for end play and damage.

 

Cant clearly follow (late hour) but i would say 2 things: dont play with vacuum randomly or you can blow the turbo. It is normal that turbo gets cut off if you apply too much vacuum. I can see you have MINUS 49⁰C air inler temp. If not on Antarctica...you have a problem! Not sure for your model, temp sensors are normaly integrated in maf

 

Yes well spotted, the temp was a concern. In Australia in the middle of summer. I took the MAF off and it appears visually well. I had thought the ECU would throw an error if it was bad?

Also worth noting that I got it tuned, I wonder if the temp is altered to change the air doser?

I'll go research MAF checks, anyone here have advice on testing them?

 

In my opinion such reading is NOT out of range so ecu wont show error. Mafs regularry fail at some 150Kkm max. And also sport air filters kill them (the paper with oil type). I also have tuned car and started exploring strange readings of maf. However they are not result of remapping but would say of age and increased air flow due to tuned engine. Maybe you have a sticking turbo (which always results in limp mode due to overboost - so car switches to no boost). I dont now what kind of turbo you have (wastegate or variable fin type). But remap demands turbo actuator positions out of regular range so it usually sticks in high boost position....

 

I believe it is the variable turbo on the RHR. I had read the actuators can get stuck but hadn't considered the tune would be asking for more through the solenoids.

Another strong clue after working on the car today, I realised the tape I put on the intercooler pipe had blown out. I'd say the high pitched noise from a nice tape whistle.

I tried a stronger fix with better tape then put a cylinder ring compressor over it.
The noise was gone and had turbo boost for a couple of minutes up the road, then lost it. ECU shut it down again. Ring compressor stopped the whistle but unsurprisingly not sealing enough.

Unable to find that pipe in Australia so I will see about making one with elbow pieces tomorrow

Madbadandold, I was leaning the same way, taking the turbo off. Just seems like such a PITA to get off on this engine, even when I dropped the engine mount to do the egr, the turbo was still out of reach! (Will of course address this holey pipe first)

 

Tune normally increases boost over stock limit (some 10% in my case) so turbo actuator reaches higher movement and can get stuck. Also variable vanes in turbo get stuck due to sooth in turbo. Google/youtube some vvt turbo cleaning/repair to get the idea

 

I had an idea it might be a nightmare to get to it. a piece of thin steel or even thick alloy sticky tape and a circular clamp would give a good seal but ensure the clamp is not overtightened in case the pipe collapses!

 

Jolbe, about a month ago I tried to clean the VVT using the method here

Unfortunately after taking off the EGR I couldn't feed the tube up the manifold far enough to reach the turbo, video makes it look a lot easier than it is!

Madbadandold, I had a similar idea and it is holding after a drive. Curious however, the ECU still killed the turbo to safe mode.

Today I will explore this temperature misreading. Worth noting that I replaced the sensor in the air doser a couple of weeks ago with a new unit.

 

Did a couple of jobs on the car today.
Temp misread is sorted, taking off the MAF and reinstalling did the trick somehow.

Have also taken off the turbo actuator, spring mechanism working no issues. Confirmed reading correctly while it was off via Diag.
What a PITA that was to get off!

Repeat still only getting to about 50% while 88 is requested at idle

 

Keep at it, you seem determined enough. I only wish I could help more. My Peugot was the 1.4. I gave it away as although I liked it, after sorting out the issues it had that is, I was running out of car space!

 

Hello again,
I have the vacuum woes down to a specific issue that perhaps someone will know the cause of.

On start up, the turbo spools nicely, numbers all good on Diag. After revving, the turbo posit repeat drops down slowly to about 30% and does not go back up.
However if I pull the vacuum going to the turbo solenoid valve and reapply it, the position % goes back up to the requested figure where the issue is repeated again.

I similar thing can be seen on the vacuum gauge hooked up to OUT on the solenoid. Strong vacuum reading until revving, then it drops right down to a low level. Removing and putting the vacuum line back on, the gauge jumps back up to a good level quickly.

I have tried multiple solenoid valves, including new ones

 

Hi, have you had any joy fixing the issue?

I have a 2015 Peugeot Expert 2.0hdi. No Limp or engine light but a code stored in Diag is P2566. A very similar code to yours. I've done a lot like you have and all now points to Turbo Wastegate Copy Sensor. The turbo can work as intended but if the sensor mis reads it it sends data back to ECU which alters Fuel/Air in relation to Turbo position.

I'm still trying to diagnose mine now after 10 months.

I know my vac circuit works as i can see it pull the wastegate when i start the engine. it holds it in place fine. the turbo actually works, but only really a low revs or pedal positions. So I either have an ECU/wiring/sensor problem....I think.