Under the sub frame, with as thicker piece of timber as you can get under the trolly. Dont try and cheat lol, and do it in the middle, doing both sides at once, because A) its Bl**dy dangerous and B) your making it harder to do, and unbalanced. Best done progressivley on each side, bit at a time.

 

Thanks for your quick replies, I don't understand this though -



Do you mean not to jack the subframe in the middle (with wood)?

 

I don't jack my 206 up for the annual oil change, I manage it by driving the front wheels on to bricks at each side, this gives me enough clearance to reach the 24 mm sump plug with a ratchet and socket, or you can use an 8 mm square key. Then I slide a shallow plastic basin underneath to collect the old oil.

The oil filter is easily accessible in the engine bay with ratchet, 27 mm socket and 12 inch extension bar.

The sump holds 3 litres 10W/40 semi-synthetic oil, brush the sump with some of the waste oil to prevent it rusting.

Benny.

 

I don't jack my 206 up for the annual oil change, I manage it by driving the front wheels on to bricks at each side...

You're supposed to have the car level though, to drain the old oil out aren't you? For example, if you took it to a garage they would put the car on the lift, keeping it level and drain it.

 

Ok bud, i'll explain. Some people jack there cars from underneath the engine, using a long jack, in the centre of the subframe, raising both sides up at once, so they can pop stands under sill jacking points easy. Not clever, as it makes the car unbalanced, and its dangerous. Jack it from the side, on the subframe, a bit at a time, placing a stand under the jacking point, then switch to the other side. If you want to jack it (which by benybal's account you dont need too) id do it like that.

 

I see what you mean, thank you for the explanation. I always thought that jacking up the front at once (or the rear at once), i.e. in the centre was common practice. I can see your point though. I doubt very much that I could reach the sump plug (which is right under the car, in the centre) by driving onto bricks, lifting it just 4 inches! Unless he means a brick stand of some sort. I have ramps, but as I said the car should be level ideally.

 

I don't know how familiar you are with the 206 jacking set-up......

There are four reinforced areas on the sill flanges, if you look closely they are marked by two cut-outs, this is where you're supposed to lift the car with the "crappy" jack supplied ( I always carry a trolley jack in the boot).

As you can just about see in the photos, I've got my jacking points marked with white paint, to make it easier to find them in the dark, if I need to change a wheel.

If you don't like Benny's "brick" idea, which works okay for me, you could jack up the front offside of the car, using the sill point, then drain the oil and lower the car again so that it's level and let remaining oil drip out.

As I'm not exposing my entire body under the car, only reaching for the plug, I don't use axle stands ( can almost hear a growl from Health and Safety Gestapo!) but this was the way we used to work in garages in the good old days, as the foreman always advised " time is money, Benny, get a move on!!"

Benny

 

Thanks for your reply Benny. I always thought that a trolley jack under sill jacking points was a bad idea due to the risk of damage to the sills? And although I have a love for old school, I wouldn't really want any part of me under the car without stands or ramps. What I was thinking, before I started this thread, was to jack the car front centre using the subframe (with wooden block), rest on axle stands under sills, sump plug out, then lower the car to drain oil, jack back up, sump plug in, lower again, change filter, refill oil, done. Thought that was common practice for a lot of car oil changes and the standard way to do it?

 

Everybody has their own favourite way of working, mine is the least strenuous and therefore lazy way, and I've never experienced any discolouration on the dipstick after my oil change, so I must have got all the old stuff completely drained out.

Make sure you fit a new filter "O" ring, it should be in the box with filter, and the Peugeot sump plug washer seems to work best with its rubber insert.

I was alerted by bar room informants to some bad vibes about some sub-standard filters on the market, the central plastic cross clip breaks off, allowing the filter to float and unfiltered oil being pumped into the main and connecting rod bearings, so I prefer to buy a quality part from the Peugeot dealer, I even got a discount on this one!

Times must be hard in the dealer parts department......

Benny.

 

Thanks for your advice Benny. One thing I just want to be certain of, if I do decide to jack the front up, I assume that the front subframe is a suitable jacking point? As a matter of interest, when you drive onto bricks, why don't you drive all 4 wheels onto them, then your car will be level and it will give you more room under there also. Or blocks of wood, which is something I sometimes do if the trolley jack won't directly fit under, to give it some clearance.

 

If like myself you have to do the job at the roadside,drive one side of the car up onto the kerbs,and jack up and put axle stands under the other.The car will be level and you,ll have enough room .

 

That's a neat little trick. Although most likely illegal no doubt. Where do you jack the car up when you do that, under the frame rail, i.e. box section?

 

The normal front and rear jacking points,and with axle stands you will be safe,and level.

 

How do you put an axle stand under the sill though at the jacking point, when the jack is there having just jacked the car up?

 

You can safely place the axle stands under the chassis beams front and rear, I dislike this practice myself, because the galvanising on the beams can get scraped, allowing rust to start. If this happens, brush some Waxoyl on the damaged metal....

Benny.

 

If you love your Pug and have it raised for the engine oil change, why not change the gearbox oil at the same time? Most gearbox failures are the result of driver abuse, but also by old time-expired oil, where the wear inhibitors have degraded by age. The driver's handbook advises that the oil never needs changed, but this is a cunning sales ploy by the manufacturer to give the impression of low-cost maintenance.

If, like me, you don't always trust a salesman's blurb, it's easy enough to drain out the old oil through the 8 mm square key plug. If your car does not have a filler/level plug, remove the air filter housing, pull up the black plastic breather cover and use a small filler cone to add the two litres of fresh oil.

The correct oil is 75w/80 transmission , I bought mine for this years change at Peugeot dealer for £6.50 a litre, slightly cheaper than motor factors.

Benny.

 

The driver's handbook advises that the oil never needs changed...

I think that is actually true, and with most cars/gearboxes. I have a 27 year old Ford Capri, and that, as far as I'm aware, still has the original gearbox oil, and it's usually accepted that the original gearbox oil stays for life.

 

One easy solution to all this. Just pop the trolly jack under the jacking point, raise it up just enough so it gives you enough clearance to undo the sump plug, without going under the car. Place a low lying tub under the sump, remove the sump plug, then lower the car down and leave for half an hour. Job done

 

I wouldn't really want any part of me under a car without ramps or stands. The sump plug is right in the middle of the car, in a recess, so my head, arm and shoulders will be under there at least. It's often thought that jacking up on a sill with a trolley jack is not a good idea as damage to the car can happen. Those sill jacking points are best left to the car jack only I think.

 

It can certainly do no harm. That's cool that you had a Capri, and nice pic. If you needed to lift the front of your Peugeot up, for example to work on the steering rack and to take off both front wheels, where would you jack it up then? Would you use the front subframe in that case.

 

If I needed to work on the front suspension/steering, I would raise the car positioning the trolley jack under the sill flange jacking points ( don't worry they're strong enough), then place axle stands under the chassis beams just behind the jacking points, this lets the front suspension hang free, I've done this many times without problems.

The Capri had only one reinforced jacking point on each side using the chassis beam and sill as a prop, I never had any trouble raising it using the jack supplied with the car.

This, of course, assumes the sills are not corroded internally, which is unlikely on the Pug, unless it has suffered badly-repaired body damage, the body shell is galvanised and very rust-resistant.

Benny.

 

The Capri had only one reinforced jacking point on each side using the chassis beam and sill as a prop, I never had any trouble raising it using the jack supplied with the car.

Benny.

Capri's have a few jacking points, the front cross member, which can be used to lift the front of the car up, the diff for the rear of the car, and all along the chassis beams on either side. The Capri jack though, is only to be used in the designated spot in the middle of each side.

On the 206, jacking up each side on the chassis rails and placing the sill on axle stands in increments might be the way to go for getting the front of the car up. Very difficult to find any info on jacking under the subframe.

 

Oil and filter change done now. I jacked the car up on the frame rails underneath (with wooden block) then put the axle stand (with folded towel) on the sill jacking point. Then did the other side so the front of the car was in the air. Drained the oil and let the car back down for it all to come out. Goodness that sump plug was tight, not the first time I've experienced that. A lump hammer on the socket wrench helped to sort that out. Then jacked back up to re-fit the sump plug. Had to drive the front wheels onto a couple of wooden blocks so I could get the jack under. Thanks for the replies, was a good help.