Also if you have an Mot coming up the air bag pre tensioners light now a fail on the new Mot rules.

Hopefully you be able to get ti fixed.:thumb:

 

Not until mid way through the year they dont

Its just an advisory for now (glad mines going in this week!)

 

If the airbag light is flashing, one of the pretensioners is either detonated, not wired up correctly or there is a bad connection.
If your using the original plugs on the pretensioner wiring, this is more than likely the problem as these are know to be crap (and were a recall in 2000). Best bet (and this is what pug did) is chop the plugs off and use some crimps that have heat shrink over them.
Hope this helps!

 

The light on mine does not flash, it just lights up.....goes out after 10-15 secs and then comes back on and stays on for the rest of the journey. Removing the battery cables for 30mins and resetting the ECU does not cure it. My 306 2.0 XSi Ph3 is an April 2000 W plate. Luckily my MOT for this year was the other week and passed, but I mentioned the issue with the tester (nice guy and has owned a 306 himself), and he still said it would fail next year unless the issue was resolved. He suggested checking the wires behind the steering wheel. I might need the assistance of someone from West Yorkshire though if I cannot do it myself.

 

Thanks for the replys but to be honest i already have the answer, i went on to a more useful site and had it answered in the 05/02,

All people on here seem to think is mot's or cut plugs off, mots are at best a joke, and stateing that i need to cut plugs off where i clearly state SOLDER joints, if it isn't on planet or in the manual no one here seems to know!

I appreciate the concern with airbag detonation,

Also a 96 plate is a phase 1, phase 3 was 99 till end of production in 02

Thanks again, but as this is the 4 seprate post will little achived i doubt very much that i will use here again, ( had potential but there seems to be more questions then answers )

Tbh I was actually talking to ego shredder. My fault for hijacking your thread.

Soldered joints on these airbags can cause a resistance problem depending on the solder used. Don't forget the ECU monitors them on resistances that have very little give for error.

 

Right what model and year do you have? Do you have two air bag lights? Of its the light that just says air bag on it, it will either be your steering wheel one (more than likely the track ring), or your passenger one if you have one, or a internal fault with the ecu. It could also be one of the side impact sensors but I think they light up both lights as they are really for the seat airbags.

Dont want to teach you to suck eggs but obviously I don't know your mechanical experience so just a bit of advice. Don't work on airbags with the battery on. Take it off, go and have a cup of tea and then crack on. Always store airbags carefully and don't drop them or short the terminals on them. Also, never use a multimeter on a airbag circuit as these can detonate them!

I'm sure you already know this but I like to tell people as airbags can be deadly!

 

Sorry just re read your post and saw you have a ph3. You will have two lights on the dash. 1 for airbags and 1 for seat airbags.

 

The light marked AIRBAG seems to work 100% fine. The one next to it with the driver and seatbelt etc is the one that is causing me the trouble.

 

Right in that case you want to check the plugs under the seats. These were a recall on the 306 and all pug did was cut the plugs off and crimp the cables. If this doesn't solve it, check the side impact sensors.

 

Thanks for the replys but to be honest i already have the answer, i went on to a more useful site and had it answered in the 05/02,

All people on here seem to think is mot's or cut plugs off, mots are at best a joke, and stateing that i need to cut plugs off where i clearly state SOLDER joints, if it isn't on planet or in the manual no one here seems to know!

I appreciate the concern with airbag detonation,

Also a 96 plate is a phase 1, phase 3 was 99 till end of production in 02

Thanks again, but as this is the 4 seprate post will little achived i doubt very much that i will use here again, ( had potential but there seems to be more questions then answers )

 

Thanks, I guess the sensors you are refering to will show up on this device I am thinking of buying:

Lexia-3,Lexia 3 Citroen&Peugeot Diagnostic,Peugeot Diagnostic tool,china Lexia-3,Lexia-3 Manufactures-Professional Diagnostic Tools [sp08] - $99.00 :

 

Haha yeah my fault too but I hate starting new threads all the time; leads to a forum full of the same questions everywhere.

I've read of people soldering and still having the problem persist, so I guess I will crimp the wires like you mentioned.

 

Crimpings how clowns make connections in their comedy cars. Solder it, but use proper leaded solder with a flux core.

 

The actual Peugeot repair bulletin for this was to cut the plugs off and use heat shrink crimps and it works well. Tbh there not put under much strain unless you cut the wires too short.

 

I've recently bought some new leaded solder wire from cpc.co.uk to use with my Weller WTCP 50 Soldering Station; D01683 - DURATOOL - SOLDER WIRE, SN60/PB40, 1.2MM | CPC and 3096122-M - MULTICORE (SOLDER) - SOLDER, 60/40 HI-ACT 1.2MM 250G | CPC

So hopefully this should be suitable for the 306 under seat wiring. How is the job done from start to finish, e.g. do you leave the seat fitted but just slide it forwards and lie on your side etc, or do you remove the seat from the car? How many wires are involved? Do you solder the wires directly to each other minus any plugs? I do not have any heatshrink so is good old black gaffa tape ok? I've read online before of people replacing more of the wire, as it tends to break the copper internally over time; if this is necessary, how far do the wires go and where?

So many questions...