attached

 

Mr Futee you are a star! Thanks so much.

DW10FD

 

yes, a falling star...

 

It makes sense, if you didn't fall on this thread I'd still be looking up in the sky for answers 😂😂.

I think this car was made on Friday. The cam belt has snapped at less than 70k miles. Just out of warranty and the head bolts are so very tight, 1 of them snapped the torx head straight off, luckily we drilled it out with damaging anything.

I'm hoping this is just a 1 off and generally they are good quality. Our own 2015 2008 has been spot on.

Sorry for the essay 🫣

 

what bad luck.
before the 5008, I had a 2013 2.0 Hdi 508. It was 2 years old when I bought it. I loved it. I bought the 5008 with 0 miles, but it's not as good as the 508. In fact, it's much "worse". The first generation 508 and the facelift are a very, very good car. I hope your problem is solved

 

At the moment the head is on the bench,we've put oil in the valves and the suspected ones have drained, the 4 cylinders also,2 have drained more than the others but not the ones we expected 😮, now it's a case of spending money. Top cams and chain set,head gasket set, new 16 valves, and so on.

Fingers crossed I don't drop the last nut into the engine 😂😂

 

don't you think it's better to buy a complett engine?

 

We're still calculating the costs. But I can't see any damage on the valves yet, so with a few more checks out should be just a case of flirting all the above and put it back together. It's a low milage engine and will be like nearly new and these engines seem to be over £1000 at least and it could be high milage or worn,this 1 will have new timing belt kit and service too ,the new water pump is here too. It's only my labour costs that make it worth saving I think. Most garages will want 3 to 4 k for this kind of job I expect. Or more.

 

Why did cam belt snap if it is "low mileage engine"?

 

No idea, it went to the garage for a service and a week later the belt snapped.

The garage have some excuses and I was asked to repair it.
There's no warranty or recalls on it.

When I saw it there was no auxiliary belt on it.

I can only work on the evidence that I see since the information seems second hand and sketchy.

 

Most of the damage should be contained to the head assembly, but the only way to know for sure is to open it. Maybe just source a complete head, or you could go repair thereof.

 

The head is on the bench, the left 8 rockers are fine and the right 8 were snapped. Compression test showed cyl 1 12, cyl 2 11,cyl 3 10, cyl 4 4

We measured the valves height and it was neglegeable, so the head is off and cleaned up,the valves seem fine, there is signs that they did contact the pistons but not damage,more like the carbon has been disturbed. We put oil in the upside down valves recess but it slowly leaked out. The cylinders were filled with oil and dropped over night but at different amounts. I appreciate these tests aren't scientific but with the absence of any visible damage,we're just trying to see something.

So it looks like we'll grind the valve seats just for good measure. I'm debating just replacing the valves but it is £150 .

Got a transit van mot failure in this weekend so I'll have to push the car out and output have to wait a few days.

Fun times 🤩🍻🤣

 

Check the valve guides for damage as well. In theory, all the force is transmitted from the valves to the rockers, and they break. Also look over the cam lobes carefully, they are pressed on and these can also move when it happens.

 

I've no way to check the cams, 1 seems to have space at the end and also 2 centre lobes are scored.

The head will have new everything 👍 ground in the valve seats today and it's holding oil , can't tell if the valves are vent though. 🤷

 

Maybe post some photos in regard to the CAMS. Unless you are replacing with new, in which case you can compare them. You should be able to observe if the cams are pressed fit or solid. You could run the head on a suitable bench setup and take note of open/closing of the valves to ensure the same pattern is present on each cylinder as you turn the cams over.

In relation to the guides they help keep the valve in alignment as returns and seats, the valve stem seals stop excess of oil entering. A clear sign of a valve guide issue may include no rotation of the valve during each stroke or abnormal/jerky rotation when compared to the others (An assumption here, is that they rotate the valve, as not worked on this engine but fairly standard in most engine design, and it is normally a function of the guide).

The risk would be the valve is able to excessively move on the travel and over time the seat or valve seat contact edge will get burned if the movement proves to be excessive. The valve guide can take damage when the timing belt breaks / valves hit.

Hope you find this helpful.

 

Thanks, I'm hoping that the lack of visible or measurable damage to the valves means that the guides aren't damaged but I will double check to see if there is any extra movement.

The guy has said to just buy new parts. I really hope the head itself isn't damaged. To the naked eye so far it seems within tolerance. We've even put the valves in a drill to see if there's any blurring 🫣.

I much prefer to see obvious damage, not a fan of replace and see but also seemingly invisible problems that cause damage later as you've said.

There is scoring on the middle lobes so the cams and chain and tensioner are getting replaced.

I'll get some pictures anyway.😎

 

Additional, we've used the cutting paste and and the lapping tool on all valves to spin clean the seats and they all spin freely and push up and down their guides without and unwanted effects.

 

Hi guys, I've had to work on another vehicle. Done that now and have ordered parts for this.

I'm looking for a new set of valves, inlet 25 x 6 x 95
Exhaust 27 x 6 x 95 (thereabouts) kit not that plentiful. Some sellers say they match a few vehicles and mine,others give different dimensions.

Nobody seems to sell them as 16 set.
1 seller says they'll fit. However the description is in and ex the opposite way around. I queried this but they seemed adamant, but I'm worried that the exhaust valves are made from tougher materials.

Is anyone able to confirm this and even better do you know which ones I need. These ones I have are all but mint but when put in a drill they show very minor wobble,barely noticeable but enough to make us decide that for a touch one £10 check it's not with the bother.
Thanks in advance.

DW10FD 2015 D.O.P
TH15TCB

 

Spare parts DS AHR (DW10FD) | K MOTORSHOP

 

Cheers for that, they're listed the same way, the bigger diameter on mine are definitely the exhaust ,my head hurts 🤣

 

Right so I spoke to the chap who informed me about the valves, i looked for myself and actually it turns out that the inlet are in fact the larger diameter ones. DOH!

So they've been ordered. Be glad to get it all back together and gone. View attachment 110489 View attachment 110489
View attachment 110489

 

 

Right the head is done and I've fitted it. The bolt sequence I've found is 20nm then 60nm then 220' I've done 90' and I'm not strong enough to go further I've never done it that tight before and don't think I can do it without damaging something. They came off mostly hand and a bit tight. Surely this 220 isn't right?