[Ian M Davis]

Your photo of the tyre label tells the RPO is 11627 (8 September 2008) and the factory code is 88 (Mulhouse). I used a RPO 11600 to get the SEDRE wiring diagram so the diagram I supplied should be correct.

There is one thing that is odd: OBD code P0473 - Exhaust differential pressure sensor signal Circuit open or short to positive, or value too high. That code relates to the diesel particle filter. The DV6ATED4 engine can have a DPF but not the 9HX version but the 9HV does.

 

[sjuggins]

There is one thing that is odd: OBD code P0473 - Exhaust differential pressure sensor signal Circuit open or short to positive, or value too high. That code relates to the diesel particle filter. The DV6ATED4 engine can have a DPF but not the 9HX version but the 9HV does.

OK, let me check this more later too - my Autel has the ability to inspect for DPF sensors and hot function certain things. I'll see if I can spot on the cat extra sensors too but not sure that will be definitive enough. Any ideas for checking 100%

 

[Ian M Davis]

I have attached a parts list that shows what the catalytic converter with DPD looks like.

EdiT: The engine code 9HX or 9HV should be part of the VIN.

 

[sjuggins]

OK, some really strange things going on...

Firstly, pretty confident this is not a DPF fitted car. VIN has 9HX in it and a visual inspection shows no Particle filter pressure pipe - the heat shield is still in place but I'm fairly confident.

Now then, I went to crank the vehicle to check if ABS would register engine speed and it wouldn't even turn over - no click from the starter, nothing. Scanned for faults and now have 4 new ones (old ones remain):

• P1728 - CAN communication Torque information invalid
• P0223 - Signal 1 of accelerator pedal Circuit open or short to positive, or value too high
• P0228 - Signal 2 of accelerator pedal Circuit open or short to positive, or value too high
• 9528 - Fault: no started command Consistency

The only thing I have done besides the testing is to repair the 4 wires that were damaged with solder and heat shrink. I'll check all fuses etc. when rain stops but could all this be related to a bricked ECU, BSI or BSM?

 

[Ian M Davis]

I doubt you have bricked anything. It sounds more likely a power supply issue. Have you checked the battery voltage? It should be about 12.7V. Flat batteries will often read over 12 when not under load. If that's okay check the voltage at the BSM 28V NR (28 pin black) pin 5 with the ignition on. I think you have done this before but your battery could be running down.

If the ECU is not communicating the BSI will not allow the car to crank but given you are getting some P codes it suggest the ECU is communicating over the CAN bus.

EDIT
Can you check which ECU you have? Haynes Pro says you should have a Bosch EDC16C3 and that the 9HV should have a EDC16C34. I would expect a EDC16C34 to work on your engine but if one was fitted it would account for the exhaust differential pressure sensor fault code.

EDIT2
I think most of the faults appear to relate to a problem with a 5V power supply problem in the ECU. The earlier results for the crankshaft sensor voltages suggests the documentation may have the wrong pin function designations for pins 1 and 3 which wouldn't surprise me but if a common 5V rail is sitting at 3V it could make a lot of sensor performance marginal.

 

[sjuggins]

I doubt you have bricked anything. It sounds more likely a power supply issue. Have you checked the battery voltage? It should be about 12.7V. Flat batteries will often read over 12 when not under load. If that's okay check the voltage at the BSM 28V NR (28 pin black) pin 5 with the ignition on. I think you have done this before but your battery could be running down.

If the ECU is not communicating the BSI will not allow the car to crank but given you are getting some P codes it suggest the ECU is communicating over the CAN bus.

So the battery was fully charged when I put it in last night and tried cranking.
Just checked this morning and it's down to 12.05v - I know something is drawing voltage and not allowing the car to sleep properly. I've found one to be the throttle body connection on the right side, white connector. When I disconnect this voltage drain is less and the whine/buzz I mentioned previously gets quieter - there is still another draw somewhere else.

Anyway, just hooked up my spare Range Rover battery (which is huge) as a booster to the Peugeot one, which is now reading to 12.6v on Pin 5 (blue wire) and at the battery terminals.
Also, swapped in my Range battery which is reading over 12.7v - same thing, no crank, Pin 5 same volts as battery.

I think the battery does need to be replaced, it's 5 years old now according to the date on the battery.

EDIT
Can you check which ECU you have? Haynes Pro says you should have a Bosch EDC16C3 and that the 9HV should have a EDC16C34. I would expect a EDC16C34 to work on your engine but if one was fitted it would account for the exhaust differential pressure sensor fault code.

I pondered this myself too thinking the ECU could have been replaced with the wrong version... You are indeed right, it is EDC16C34 in the car now.

EDIT2
I think most of the faults appear to relate to a problem with a 5V power supply problem in the ECU. The earlier results for the crankshaft sensor voltages suggests the documentation may have the wrong pin function designations for pins 1 and 3 which wouldn't surprise me but if a common 5V rail is sitting at 3V it could make a lot of sensor performance marginal.

Does this mean the ECU itself is at fault?
I've found this from an ECU place online which is only £60 so is it worth a punt?

Peugeot Citroen ECU Bosch 0281010390 | 9646313280 | 47 | EDC16C3 | Plug+Play IMMO OFF! Buy Now

Free Advice - Taken from a running vehicle and dry stored - Good working order and tested - Reliable delivery to UK, EU and worldwide.

ecuconnection.co.uk

 

[Ian M Davis]

So the battery was fully charged when I put it in last night and tried cranking.
Just checked this morning and it's down to 12.05v - I know something is drawing voltage and not allowing the car to sleep properly. I've found one to be the throttle body connection on the right side, white connector. When I disconnect this voltage drain is less and the whine/buzz I mentioned previously gets quieter - there is still another draw somewhere else.

I couldn't find a device with a white plug in the wiring diagram but I suspect its item 1362 - see attachment

I pondered this myself too thinking the ECU could have been replaced with the wrong version... You are indeed right, it is EDC16C34 in the car now.

Does this mean the ECU itself is at fault?
I've found this from an ECU place online which is only £60 so is it worth a punt?

Peugeot Citroen ECU Bosch 0281010390 | 9646313280 | 47 | EDC16C3 | Plug+Play IMMO OFF! Buy Now

Free Advice - Taken from a running vehicle and dry stored - Good working order and tested - Reliable delivery to UK, EU and worldwide.

ecuconnection.co.uk

It is possible that there is something is pulling the ECU's 5V rail down but given that you are finding somethings are running after the ignition is off it does sound like a ECU fault. It looks like the company is offering a ECU with the immobiliser off so it runs a good chance of working. Given the relatively low price It could be worth a try. One problem I came across with a 308 CC is that the ECU has details about the car model stored in the Flash memory and a ECU with matching part number that came from a Citroen worked but had performance issues.

 

[sjuggins]

I couldn't find a device with a white plug in the wiring diagram but I suspect its item 1362 - see attachment

That's the one, Ian, thanks. When I disconnect it the voltage draw reduces and the whine/buzz from that component goes away - When reconnect it, it clicks/whirrs for a second and then goes back to the same whine/buzz noise.

If I disconnect the battery, it does not start making noise until I flick the ignition switch on at which point the whine/buzz never goes away until the battery is disconnected or 48V connector is pulled on ECU.

It is possible that there is something is pulling the ECU's 5V rail down but given that you are finding somethings are running after the ignition is off it does sound like a ECU fault. It looks like the company is offering a ECU with the immobiliser off so it runs a good chance of working. Given the relatively low price It could be worth a try. One problem I came across with a 308 CC is that the ECU has details about the car model stored in the Flash memory and a ECU with matching part number that came from a Citroen worked but had performance issues.

I've taken a punt on it. Am I at risk of damaging the replacement unit if there are actually wiring loom faults remaining or, in your opinion, are all the strange readings and fault codes relating back to the ECU at fault?

Is there a way to rewrite the flash memory with the correct details of the vehicle the ECU is being fitted into?

Massive thanks for all your help so far 👍

 

[sjuggins]

Do you have a Haynes Pro troubleshooting reference (or similar) for 1362?

Checking the wiring it appears to connect with 1115 (cylinder reference sensor) which I know I've checked before and appears good. I wonder if 1362 is also connected to something else that is causing the other remaining noise/draw.

Might be good to do a quick test on wiring whilst I await the replacement ECU?

 

[Ian M Davis]

Do you have a Haynes Pro troubleshooting reference (or similar) for 1362?

Checking the wiring it appears to connect with 1115 (cylinder reference sensor) which I know I've checked before and appears good. I wonder if 1362 is also connected to something else that is causing the other remaining noise/draw.

Might be good to do a quick test on wiring whilst I await the replacement ECU?

Hopefully RedSector can provide the Haynes data you want. I unable to get any suitable images to transfer to you.

 

[sjuggins]

Not sure if this helps/relates with the overall history of the problems I'm seeing... I reached out to the previous owner again for any more info on the faults, work done, etc.

It transpires the Starter motor has also been replaced - I believe after the ECU was replaced and I'm wondering if the previous faulty Starter possibly caused some issues in the ECU that are only appearing now? I don't have a definitive timeline on what was done and when, unfortunately.

 

[Ian M Davis]

I doubt the starter motor has much effect on the ECU. The BSI controls a relay in the BSM that operates the starter motor solenoid. The problem is in some cases if the BSI can't communicate withe the ECU it will not allow the starter motor to crank.

I got somethings out of Haynes Pro. I think RedSector does a screen print. I can't display enough of the detail on my screen to make that worthwhile.

 

[Ian M Davis]

I would imaging the buzzing you can hear from the throttle body is from its motor. This gets its power from fuse 20 in the fuse box (BSM). Are you able to remove fuse 20 to see if the sound stops? If that stops the noise it would suggest Relay R2 in BSM is jammed closed.

Note R2 also powers fuses 5, 10, and 21. It might be worth removing these fuses as well

 

[RedSector]

The air doser has shut down procedure, set noises after the engine is turned off to check it has control / throw error next start when it does not and if critical for my engine stops ability to start it. Here is mine https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ahn1qybKg9kshOp73EbrBfD6ze_SHQ?e=7WApy4 from 4007 2.2 HDiF DW12MTED (recording is the shutting down procedure)

I think RedSector does a screen print.

screen capture (f12) into paint.net / clipped / named and exported to model number/engine designation/component name/Pxx.png
P=Page
P00 is overview
P01-onward matches process steps.
When cant be bothered...bunch of random numbers from paint.net screen capture/crop.

 

[sjuggins]

I would imaging the buzzing you can hear from the throttle body is from its motor. This gets its power from fuse 20 in the fuse box (BSM). Are you able to remove fuse 20 to see if the sound stops? If that stops the noise it would suggest Relay R2 in BSM is jammed closed.

Note R2 also powers fuses 5, 10, and 21. It might be worth removing these fuses as well

Tried pulling all four fuses and no difference still makes the noise, which I'll upload a short vid in a bit... sounds like Red's video without all the motor movement/clicking

EDIT:
Video uploaded Inlet Manifold Valve Control Motor - noise, stuck on?

 

[sjuggins]

Tested the Valve Control Motor and got some odd results (quelle surprise!)...

Pin 3 to A L1 gave some varying resistance readings from 0.5 to 3.5 ohms - could be down to the back probe not working great but still with Block A disconnected I got 0.5 to 1+ ohms
I could not get the Valve Motor to work when I touched Pin 3 to + and Pin 4 to - on the battery, Reversing the leads as per the test also did nothing - however now it doesn't make a noise, at all
Ping 6 to A K3 would give nothing, kept getting OL on the meter but Pin 5 read 0 ohms.

On the whole, would I be right in thinking the faulty ECU might be skewing the results AND according to the test of the motor valve failing, I need a replacement?

 

[Ian M Davis]

If you pulled all four fuses it would have disconnected the supply to the doser valve motor. This makes me think the noise is not from the valve motor. The sound is quite high frequency and I think is from a switch mode power supply in the ECU and I suspect it relates to one of the 5V supplies. The simplest way to get 5V from 12V is to use a standard regulator but these produce heat so ECU manufacturers use switch mode regulators which convert the DC voltage to a high frequency AC and then use a ferrite transformer to drop the voltage and then rectifier the output. I suspect one of these modules is faulty. This would explain why the 5V supply on the crankshaft sensor is not correct.

Can I get you to test the voltage at pin 1 of the dosers connector relative to earth as shown below. If your multimeter has a frequency scale it would be worth seeing if it gives a reading.

There is a chance one sensor is overloading the 5V supply so check the doser pin 1 voltage I want you to try and disconnect every sensor with a 5V supply in turn and see if the noise stops. The camshaft sensor was reading the correct voltage so start with it. Then try any of the others I have listed.
Camshaft sensor 1115
Crankshaft sensor 1313
MAF sensor 1310
ERG 1297
Common fuel pressure sensor 1321
Accelerator pedal 1261
MAP sensor 1312

 

[RedSector]

Video uploaded Inlet Manifold Valve Control Motor - noise, stuck on?

I listened through, sounds like the EGR to me, but I might be wrong.

 

[Ian M Davis]

I listened through, sounds like the EGR to me, but I might be wrong.

I think the noise is about 800Hz and is coming from more than one device. Apparently the noise dropped when the doser was unplugged but pulling the doser motor fuse made no difference. This suggests to me the noise is coming from the 5V supply.

 

[RedSector]

Well does get louder on that side of engine, Ian, so might be on the money with that.