Sign up for Servicebox, it will give you diagrams like this:

 

Thanks Gibbo, very useful website. Do Peugeot know they are being incredibly helpful? Those drawings aren't quite the same as my vehicle though.

Having checked through the drawings and frozen my fingers off outside I've found out I have a Pollution Control Air Pump, which I'm assuming has some kind of problem as I keep getting AntiPollution Fault coming up on the display along with P1340 shown on a code reader.

 

Where can I get a wiring diagram for this pollution control system?

 

Peugeot Service Box

 

I found the pipe connecting one of the rocker covers to the plenum was split (my first guess has paid off) I've replaced it temporarily with a length of rubber hose.

The electrical air pump runs for a short time when the engine is first started from cold so the wiring is actually fine. This seems to put air into the cylinder head via a valve, but why? I assume this is why the "Anti pollution" fault was showing.

I cleared the fault light with a tool but shouldn't faults clear themselves when they are repaired and the vehicle detects whichever signal is working correctly?

 

EMLs usually go off and the display stops warning of the fault when its fixed, but its always a good idea to clear the codes with Planet, so you're not picking up old codes when you do a future scan.

 

Still not fixed, it keeps cutting out when coming to a stop. I put that down to the air hose leaking but bypassing it with hose hasn't stopped it.
Also it still comes up with AntiPollution Fault on the display.

Do you know what the valve on the head does? (Item 7 on the picture)
I guess it allows air in from the engine bay or forced by from the pump when it's running.

I put my hand over the intake port of the air pump (with the plastic cap removed) and it's only just drawing air in, is it really a light duty pump or could it have a blocked filter and/or blocked Pollution Control Valve.

It's an interesting car but puzzling as to how this pollution control system works - or doesn't in our case

 

Unless Ebay is mistaken, it says part 7 is the EGR valve.

New Genuine - EGR Valve Citroen Peugeot Fiat 2.0 RFN - 9630168080, 1628.FN | eBay

I'm more a diesel man so can't really comment, although if its behaving differently when warm (valve open) than code, it could be the issue.

Did you sort out the P1340 code?

 

Thanks for that, wouldn't have thought of going straight to ebay for the valve. It seems odd to have to put an air pump into the system when the vacuum from the engine should suck any oil vapors by itself - but these cars were designed by people who know way more than us mere mortals

Having carried out more research through this and other sites, it seems I was a little off the mark with the "anti pollution fault" and associating it with the pollution control valve.

I've fitted a new air filter as the existing one was getting a bit black and had seen much better days. The car still cuts out but not as much as before I "fixed" the air pipe. I've also been poking round the engine bay with a piece of hose stuck in my ear trying to find a vacuum leak but without success.

The previous owner told me that he'd changed the plugs, coil pack and cat but had not had the car serviced, which was born out by it having a filthy air cleaner and only2.5 litres of black black oil in the sump! (this will be more relevant in a minute)

P1340 is becoming quite interesting and I now have two other codes of P0170 and P0131 to go with it. Reading behind the lines, it's apparently a common fault that if there is something that can cause the mixture to be wrong (broken pipe or clogged air filter!) the lambda sensors can get sooted up and a general "emissions fault" flag brings up the Anti Pollution Fault on the little screen on the dash.
This can be caused by the Lambda sensors not giving readings in the correct range - they are valid readings but they indicate a mechanical fault. (sooty sensor). This could also be brought on by sticky tappets (filthy oil?) which are worse in the colder weather of if the car doesn't get warm quickly enough. They allow unburnt fuel into the cat which is detected by the sensors and pops up the anti pollution message (which I had assumed was the air pipes to the pollution valve).
So the plan now is to check my connections to the probes in case they aren't making good connections and to measure the voltages to see if they are reading correctly.

This is also whilst trying to ignore my wife moaning about it stopping in the middle of a roundabout with the kids in the car with her, I'm trying to sort it but it's dark & ruddy cold in the evenings :nono:

 

Some videos about the EGR.

 

Not sure of the connection with the EGR videos? or am I missing something? Would the EGR being stuck bring up the anti pollution fault or is that connected with one of the other fault codes? It ought to bring a specific EGR fault if if was faulty shouldn't it?

I've had the throttle body off and emptied a can of cleaner through it so it's got no more sooty deposits in there any more.
Down in the plenum/manifold it's a right gungy sooty oily mess, I assume that's from the exhaust feeding back into it, is that the reason for the EGR video links? Should it be like that, I know the crankcase is feeding back in there but it does seem a bit of a mess - see picture attached.

I've also checked the spark plugs and then cleaned them up. They are quite new NGK LFR5B's and number 4 (furthest from gearbox) is slightly sootier than the others, but they seem fine.

Reading through some other threads, it seems to be common that if the vehicle is started and left tick over then that's when it can go wrong. The best way is to start it & drive straight away to get the temperature of the exhaust up. This then points to the Lambda sensors being sooty and having a very delayed response and hence it gives the wrong fueling for the engine conditions. i.e. wrong info in, wrong fuel mixture out.

Next step, find out where to measure the output voltages of the cat in/out sensors and measure them to see if they are within a suitable range. It's quite hard to reach the connectors though as they are in a small gap just under the battery and just over the gearbox.

 

I measured the oxygen sensors and as bank 1 sensor 1 was only giving out a constant 100mV I decided to put a new pair in. It's now running much much better although the tick-over speed is very high, about 1200 rpm.
I've checked the throttle position percentage and it's sitting at 22% without the pedal pressed and only gets to 80% with the pedal fully down.

Can someone please tell me how can I reset the throttle to go from 0 to 100% ?
(or do I need to start a new thread?)

 

After several days of trying different things, it seems to be having the fault only when cold starting. If it is stopped and restarted when partially warm it doesn't show the antipollution message. This seems to point to the air pump not feeding enough air into the exhaust system. Apparently (according to a BMW website) these pumps have a similar effect to an afterburner and help to preheat the cat when it is absolutely cold.

I've found out roughly how it ought to work and it seems ideal weather for cold starts but I'm just wondering exactly how much air this pump should put out and for how long.

If the cat doesn't get warmed up quickly enough, the oxygen sensors then seem to just stop working.

When started from a hot start, everything is fine - except the throttle only goes down to 20% so the gear changes are very lumpy & the tickover is high. How do I reset the throttle calibration? Just leave the battery disconnected overnight? Will I lose the radio code by doing this?

Puzzled.com !!

 

I've had the Pollution Control Intake Valve off (being sold as an EGR valve on ebay as Gibbo pointed out) and when the air pump switches on it opens inside to let the pumped air into the hole in the head. When its not running the valve stops anything coming back up the pipe into the air pump.
The air is rushing out of the tube at about the same rate as I can blow - not sure if its okay or should be more than that ?
But when the pump is running and I've pulled the hose off of the valve I can hear a change in the speed and load on the air pump as if the pipe is blocked and when pumping to atmosphere it sounds much better. There's nothing coming out of the head although I would have expected exhaust gas to be coming out of the hole. Can anyone tell me if there's any valvework inside the head that lets this pumped air into the exhaust ports?

It's all very interesting although as the car keeps stalling and my wife is concerned it will let her down in the middle of a junction, I've disconnected the battery tonight and will see if it resets the throttle in the morning. It was still only registering between 20% and 85%.