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-12 508 sw GT 2.2 No heat passenger side

16K views 59 replies 7 participants last post by  fox67  
#1 ·
I get luke warm air from the passenger side, driver side works ok but still struggles somewhat.
2-zone clima

  • I 've flushed the system and replaced all coolant with destilled water and correct coolant
  • Changed the heater matrix
  • Changed the thermostat. Still the same issue.

Changing the heater matrix gave me better heat on the driver side but still luke warm on passenger.

I also noticed unless I rev the engine it doesnt really push heat through the vents.
If i go on a highway drive the heat distributes through the car and its okay.
But for my rather short commute I barley get hot air even tho the engine and water is up to temp.

A notice on this is that my coolant gague never exeeds 80 degrees. This is why I changed the thermostat, thinking it doesnt open up properly. No change tho.

I'm kind of out of ideas. The blend doors doesnt seem to be the issue.
Are there any sensors that i should try to replace? Can a dealer narrow it down through a diagonsis?
 
#5 ·
So firstly, never seen this model, but the below is what I noticed.
You can look it up here Peugeot (ssg.asia)
View attachment 109333
View attachment 109336

It appears like this water reheater is involved in the coolant flow to the heater in the vehicle.
Rather than just the thermostat,
View attachment 109337

But I might be interpreting this incorrectly, the coolant may just pass through this without it being involved.

Huge thanks, I’ll look into it. Might be on to something. I’ve found multiple threads with people having the same issue but none that resolved the issue aside from clogged matrix.

I also have a diesel warmer installed from factory (to preheat the passenger compartment during winter and de ice). What I find strange is that when I run it, it seems to be producing heat just fine.

I’ve only had the car since December and started driving it regularly since June, bought it to be the family wagon, so not been able to judge how well it performs yet.
 
#7 ·
Well thought was worth looking at. There does not appear to be much else in the system that you have not replaced.

See if this is useful
 

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#10 ·
So, small update.
Was driving home, a bit colder than previous weeks (around 15 celcius and rain). Noticed there was more heat than usual coming from the vents, tried turning off the AC and bam, got warm air on the driver side! Passenger side was still cold.

So this doesn’t really tell me much, I don’t get how disconnecting the AC affects the amount of heat that passes through the vents. But on a positive note it proves there is heat moving through the system.
I’m leaning more and more towards a motor/flap or sensor.
Decided to suck it up and turn it in into a Peugeot dealer workshop to let them look at it.

I’ll update again hopefully with a fix.
 
#11 ·
Had the car at the dealer, no surprise they barely did anything and couldn’t figure it out. I bought a small endoscopic camera and can confirm all the flaps seem to move as they should.
This leads me to believe it’s some kind of sensor. I’ve tried to search forums about the C5 that I believe have a similar HVAC. My next try is to find some way to get the input data from the evaporator sensor and the one in the dash.
I don’t know if they’re the culprit but running out of ideas here.

one thing I did notice is that get more warm air if I turn off the AC. Read on Citroen forums a Freon leak could cause similar issues, tho I’m not sure how. AC cools as it should during summer.
 
#12 ·
New update:

Had the car another round at the dealers. They forced all flaps open (don’t know how exactly) to make sure free passage of air through all vents. The simultaneously confirmed all flaps working and no cogs being worn out.
No change.

Since we’ve confirmed with a FLIR camera that got coolant goes through the thermostat they rerouted the flow passing the diesel preheater to go straight from the thermostat into the firewall and into the heater matrix, to eliminate any issues with the hoses from the preheater.
No change…

This in my world makes absolutely no sense. But points to the heater matrix, even tho it’s been replaced. My local dealer wants $850 for the job which is insane since the matrix costs $80 on AUTODOC and the job takes about an hour.
But I’m out of options so I’ll replace the heater matrix once again with another Valeo original.

Something that has been bugging me is the electrical heater matrix (see attached picture). From what I understand this will kick in when the engine is cold to help the AC heat the air until coolant temp has risen enough. This should give me some heat but I get none.

This leads me to guess that it’s not functional and the local dealer wasn’t able to confirm this even tho I asked them multiple times.
If we assume the heater married doesn’t allow warm coolant to flow through and the electrical matrix is not functional I’m guessing this could be enough to not get hot air from the vents. I’m yet to figure out if it’s straight plug and play to replace it, can anyone here help me out with this?

it seems easy enough to access from the passenger side, just connected with a cable, I can get a replacement from the scrap for about $50

Image
 
#13 ·
Zdravo. Prosila bi za pomoč, sicer imam težave z ventilacijo. 😣 Imam dvopodročno klimo. Ventilacija se mi bolj segreva na levi strani kot na desni, isto se zgodi, če imam prižgano klimo, leva stran je hladnejša od desne ventilacija dobro piha .. kabinski filter zamenjan ... dovolj hladilne tekočine . .. se je to že komu zgodilo .. .prosim za nasvet ...hvala
 
#14 ·
Google translate
Hello. I would like to ask for help, otherwise I have problems with ventilation. 😣 I have a two-zone air conditioner. The ventilation heats up more on my left side than on the right, the same thing happens if I have the air conditioning on, the left side is cooler than the right, the ventilation blows well .. cabin filter replaced ... enough coolant . .. has this happened to anyone .. .please advise ...thanks
 
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#18 ·
Hi, not yet.
Everything points towards the heater matrix so I’ve ordered another Valeo one from AUTODOC. But 3 weeks ago the car had died and refused to start, battery was replaced but it didn’t work so it has been towed to the dealer where they concluded my BPGA box has died from nowhere. This part is out of stock everywhere so I’ve bought a used one from a scrap yard.

Right now I’m waiting for the dealer to get the part and replace it so that the car starts, then they’ll flush and replace the heater matrix again. Hopefully this will help, but my gut feeling is it won’t help. I’m not completely trusting the dealer being competent enough to actually check stuff properly, most things points towards the heater matrix but it’s already replaced twice.

I’ll know in a week or two, I’ll update when the car is back from the mechanic.
 
#19 ·
I had same stuff on my 2.2 gt, i replaced the heater matrix and it fix it. But before doing it i also flushed the coolant quite a few times and bunch of sediments came out. My guess is if you replace the heater matrix but dont flush the system, so that it is clean it will clog back up quickly
 
#25 ·
Yup, that’s what I’ve read too, also why I was so surprised when flushing and replacing didn’t help. Previous owner didn’t use the correct coolant so that’s why I replaced and flushed it to the correct one. But if you also had the problem with it not heating on both side that gives me some hope. It’s possible there was still residue left in the hoses, clogging the new matrix.
 
#27 ·
So, short update.
BPGA module changed and the car starts etc.

I was surprised that the chief mechanic called me and said he had kept diagnosing the car free of charge because he wasn’t convinced it was the heater matrix and it annoyed them they couldn’t find the issue.

They’ve tried a new heater matrix and it flows fine. He concluded that they believe it’s the water pump not circulating the water properly, since it’s a diesel and runs pretty cold, it doesn’t overheat.

No point replacing the water pump and not replacing the timing belt at the same time (it’s a job I’d have to do in 2-3 years either way).

It was decided that they’ll do the job, and if it fixes the no heat issue I’ll pay, if it doesn’t, the dealer will take the cost. Which honestly seems like a good deal.

Awaiting results beginning of next week.
 
#30 ·
Okay, so a week later the mechanic contacts me. It did not help replacing the water pump.
But they’ve “found” the issue. Particles metallic/flakes keep appearing in the coolant even tho they flush it repeatedly, this then blocks the matrix.

Replacing the matrix brings back the heat but after a while it gets blocked again. And they don’t know what produces the contamination…

the previous owner had red instead of blue glycol, I guess this could’ve built up residue, but repeated flushing should fix that.

Does anyone have an idea what could be the issue? The car runs fine so doesn’t strike me as likely that it could be anything from the engine. I found another thread where theirs somehow got clogged because of a leak in the oilcooler. Plausible?

as a “solution” the problem with the heat is due to clogged matrix, but what’s causing it is still to be resolved.
 
#31 ·
my 2.2 has red/pink coolant but mine heat matrix got cloged because of failed oil cooler seal. From my memory coolant should be red but OAT type. My guess metallic flakes could be from oil cooler or webasto, you can try temporarily bypassing webasto to see if that helps.
 
#32 ·
Whats in the webasto/oil cooler that can produce flakes?

Gonna ask the mechanic to take a look at the oil cooler and maybe try to use some kind of cleaner to remove residue in the coolant system.

Christmas time so not expecting any updates on this until next year.
 
#33 ·
So final update. Car has been at the second dealer since 9/1. They’ve constantly postponed when they could release the car with little to no feedback or given reason. Today they finally called me back and said they managed to get heat on both sides.

The issue was a previous owner has most likely poured some coolant fix/cement mixture into the coolant system, resulting in a ton of blockage, residue, crap clogging the coolant system. I’ll provide pictures later.

They’ve now flushed the radiator/system with some addative that will clean and resolve the stuff (exactly what I asked them to do a month ago) and according to them I will be able to pic the car up to tomorrow.

How the previous dealer managed to miss this issue while having the car for over a month is beyond me..

It’ll be interesting to see if my radiator gives up now.. it’s also kind of funny how the car has essentially ran cold (never exceeded 85celcius) despite all this crap blocking the system.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Hi,
I have a similar problem on my 508 GT 2.2 2013 year model (I live in Sweden).
Last summer the problem was that on the right side (passenger side) no cool air.
Now at wintertime I get about 25 Celsius on passenger side and 55 on drivers side.
I just had the car at a dealer for timing belt and water pump change and they then put Red coolant in it.
When reading this I think it maybe a glogged matrix.
My preheater hasent been working for the last 3-4 years but the problem with the heating came this summer 2023.
In januari 2022 it was a leak in coolant system when my doughter was on a holiday.
The garage that fixed it then put yellow coolant in it.

Is it so that thecoolant goes in at the drivers side and then if it is being clogged it is the passenger side that is being clogged first? If so then my problem can be a clogged matrix.

Maybee its possible to measure the temperature at the matrix left and right side to check if thats the problem.

I will try to get to the matrix and do that.

Does anyone now what coolant I should use?
My cars VIN is VF38E4HLADL019513

Anyone has a good solution on how to flush the system?

UPDATE
If my cars passenger side has problem with heating AND cooling is it maybe not the matrix?
Instead a problem with a blender flap?
My old 407 had that problem and I had to take out the flaps and reinforce them.

Thanks,
 
#35 ·
Hi,
I have a similar problem on my 508 GT 2.2 2013 year model (I live in Sweden).
Last summer the problem was that on the right side (passenger side) no cool air.
Now at wintertime I get about 25 Celsius on passenger side and 55 on drivers side.
I just had the car at a dealer for timing belt and water pump change and they then put Red coolant in it.
When reading this I think it maybe a glogged matrix.
My preheater hasent been working for the last 3-4 years but the problem with the heating came this summer 2023.
In januari 2022 it was a leak in coolant system when my doughter was on a holiday.
The garage that fixed it then put yellow coolant in it.

Is it so that thecoolant goes in at the drivers side and then if it is being clogged it is the passenger side that is being clogged first? If so then my problem can be a clogged matrix.

Maybee its possible to measure the temperature at the matrix left and right side to check if thats the problem.

I will try to get to the matrix and do that.

Does anyone now what coolant I should use?
My cars VIN is VF38E4HLADL019513

Anyone has a good solution on how to flush the system?

UPDATE
If my cars passenger side has problem with heating AND cooling is it maybe not the matrix?
Instead a problem with a blender flap?
My old 407 had that problem and I had to take out the flaps and reinforce them.

Thanks,
Was out for a longer drive and the temp on the driver side is 65 Celsius and on passenger side never more then 23. Its 4 degrees outside. Maesured the in and out tubes to heater matrix. Both of them warm (67 in 57 out).
Will test the AC in a while. Have the car in a warm garage so I can test ifthe AC compressor starts an measure the temp at cooling on both sides.
 
#38 ·
Thanks for your reply.
I will test if the AC still olnly works on driver side.
If it does then both heating and cooling works on drivers side.
On passenger side neither heat or cool is working.
Thats why I thought it wasent the heater matrix.
Will also check with autodoc if I should have blue or red coolant.
Was passing by my local garage who changed the timing belt for a cooler topup.
Asked him about it and he said red is correct.
Why only buy Valeo. I checked at Ad bildelar here in Sweden and they only have "Nissens" and "Febi".
 
#39 ·
Neither heat or cool air in passenger side sounds odd, do you get no airflow at all on the passenger side? Or is it just that it doesn’t change temperature?
if you switch between floor, front and window, does it redirect the airflow on the passenger side? I know there is a small motor and linkage arm on both sides that could be acting up. Do you have any odd ticking sounds when it redirects? Nissens and febi probably works, but valeo is oem and there’s not really a price difference (when buying online) so might as well go for the original part.
 
#40 · (Edited)
Okej, so Valeo is OEM then I know why to buy that.

Airflow is working on both sides.
Just tested cooling and on drivers side is it fine,about 7 Celsius but not cool on passenger side.
The same with heating. Good heat on drivers side (65 C) but not on passenger side.
Passenger side goes up little when heating and down little when cooling.
I tested for fault codes and got this (se PDF).

Then I cleared all codes and took the car for a spinn without turning the AC on.
The heat came back on passenger side!
But when I turned the heat up to HI the temperature dropped on passenger side but not on drivers side.
I also got a fault code back "1006 internal fault in heater".
Then cleared the codes again and temp set to 22C.
The code has not reappered yet.
All this is tested with the AC of.
I will let the car cool of before testing again.

If the heat then works fine i will test to turn the AC on to see if I get back some fault codes and to see if anything happens with the heat on passenger side.

The "Internal fault of heater", could that be my Webasto heater that is not working?
Answering myself, yes I think it is. The fault code is one of two in the section "additional heating"

Image
 

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#41 ·
Yes I believe the fault codes would be related to the webasto.

The fact that you get airflow but no real change in temp switching between heat and cold on the passenger side makes me wonder if it’s the flaps or a sensor, seems it’s not mixing the air properly. But I’m only guessing.

If you remove the trim in the footwell on the passenger side you should be able to see white linkage arms controlling the flaps. Try switching between heat and cold and redirect the flow and se if the arm moves as it should and if you hear any notices from the motor life plastic grinding teeth.
 
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