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Discussion Starter #1
Evening guys :thumb:

Sooooo, following on from the cold start problems after changing fuel, air and oil filters along with oil on Friday, the car has become very difficult to start. There were fault codes displaying before this

P1351 Pre heating relay circuit, Relay stuck open
P0409 EGR valve stuck during programming
P0238 Turbo pressure, Short circuit to positive or open circuit
P0100 Flow meter signal, airflow not plausable

I've worked through these since buying the car, and have found some very serious bodgery going on, all courtesy of my local main dealer (local car, local dealer. No way am I EVER taking the car there!!!) including the smashed up airbox and round EGR fixings. Knowing full well the egr valve was dodgy, I whiped it out today (Took forever!) and found it wasn't a plunger type like my old 1.5 dCi Megane. After cleaning what I could reach with carb and choke cleaner, I put it back together. The car spluttered into life and ran for 30 seconds while I put some trim back on, I then got in and gave it a rev. Got to 2500rpm and the MIL came on. Car then stalled. Started again (Eventually) but quick stalled.

Car now will not start at all. Tomorrow I will dismantle again and play with egr futher and put the original fuel filter back on (Have heard this can cause dodgy starting?) So my question is; Is the car buggered? Will it need to be trailered away to be connected to life support before I can start it again, or will adjusting the egr (In case I put something back wrong) and/or changing the fuel filter get the car going again?

Just to put in perspecitve, the 'local' main dealer is 30 miles away, and no local garages have good diag, but 1, and they are unhelpful, but will read the codes for me, but will my efforts be in vain without them?

Car is 56 plate 1.6 HDi 110 with 130k otc :nod:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Okie dokie ladies and gents, I am 99.5% sure my diagnosis is right, and that the pissing EGR is stuck open and this is the cause of my problems. Looking back, the problems started as soon as I fixed the mangled airbox which had a huge hole accross the seam. With this screwed and siliconed together and a new filter in, the car instantly had trouble starting.

I initially thought I'd soaked a connection whilst cleaning the engine bay (It'd have rude not to while I was there!) But it soon became apparent that this was not the case. Thinking back to my P codes, I considered the heater pulg relay, but that works fine. Now I have service history (It was a risk to buy a company car with no history and blindly hope it was dealer serviced, but it paid off with every reciept for everything all done by the main dealer) I found the dpf has been out, cleaned, eolys fuild was topped up 17k miles ago, pre heat relay was changed, EGR cleaned and new heater plugs fitted 12k ago, at last (117k) serivce.

Now at 129,920 miles, I've serviced and I thought it'd be a great idea to sort the EGR while I still thought I knew what I was doing. :bang: It turned out I didn't, and the EGR was totally unlike others I've worked with before, so I cleaned the soleniod, and sprayed carb cleaner down the hole, and panicked, before sheepishly putting it back together. :uhoh: The car fired (I cannot tell you how relieved I was) and ran. It then stalled. It restarted fine, but a quick rev up to 3000 saw the anti polloution fault flash up, and the car stalled again and would crank, but not fire.

So, would the MAF, with false readings due to the broken airbox cause the EGR to be in a position where it should not normally be (I.E. Fully open) and by giving the MAF proper, accurate data, is it therefore plausable that the EGR would attempt to move to its proper position for any given rev and get stuck in the process due to carbon buildup/lack of use or am I totally worng?

I don't want to go through the hassle of recovering car to garage only to be told "You need a new EGR" I know that, and should have changed it instead of trying to faff around cleaning it. I should have known that; cleaning my Megane one didn't help. Replacing it did (I was nearly £90 down after that!) I then promptly sold it :rolleyes:

Also, the car is constantly going into economy mode now, so does that have any bearing on the case?

Many thanks :worship:
 

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If working on my 307 for some time, it also shows economy mode on the display panel if the battery charge is below a certain volt. Think i may have read this in haynes manual too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, it used to go in eco after a few mins, but when you locked the doors then opened them again it would come back. Now, once it goes into eco, it won't come out again until you start it. Which you can't do!!! Maybe I'm just getting paranoid about it now it's broken :p


Bought a secondhand EGR last night for £35 with 3 month warranty on it, if it lasts that long, fine. I'm not gunna dismantle this one and cock it up again :scared:
 
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