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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hopefully this will go to show others that you can do this without a 10 tonne hydraulic press, as long as you are a reasonable mechanic most of the time.

What I did need though was a few thick bits of wood and a 3lb copper hammer, and a couple of soft steel drifts - and a 4" grinder

I was getting a lot of road noise, and a few months later this turned into a deffinate rumble. Jacking both front wheels left me in no doubt I needed bearings as the RH wheel could be wobbled by hand :eek:

I orderd some online for £33 delivered, and arrived the next day.

After removing all bolts I had the hub off eventually, and the brake caliper supported on a sturdy box.

Using plenty of penetrating oil, I left it for a cuppa.
Support the hub body on wood, and drive out the centre with a suitable drift.
I actually found that the hub nut was a perfect fit - so I used this to start with and introduced it to the 3lb hammer.

Half- way through, the bearing came apart (as expected) Keep all the bits!!!

Turn hub over, and a few hits knock the other centre straight out.

TAKE IT OUT AND PUT IT BACK IN THE OTHER SIDE - COMPLETE WITH ALL BALLS.

Next bit -
Use a thin screwdriver, and remove all rust around the circlip - give it a wire brush - get it clean!
Use penetrating oil (note to self - need to buy more)
Start by tapping all round using a drift as it will be siezed. Then try wiggling the ends a very little.
I used a chisel behind the clip end where it narrows, to knock it along the groove. This works by springing the clip inwards, and freeing it at the same time without bending it too much (which can snap it)

Only when it is free can you get longnose pliars or circlip pliars on it to remove it.

Wire brush again - and more oil.

Support on the steelwork and wood, and start knocking out the bearing - quite a large whack to start.

Once you get it to move a little - add more oil.

Use the steel drifts to very gradually drive out the bearing, trying to keep blows spaced at 180 or 3 at 120 degrees. As you get close to it coming out, ease off and don't rush it.

Now - there is just the bearing inner on the driveflange.
I tried with a puller - but there wasn't enough room to grip it. If you have one - try it.
I used a grinder to remove one side of it, then a cold chisel to crack it enough to slide it off.

Clean up both parts with fine emery - clean circlip groove.

I used molygrease to assemble the new one, although oil will do fine.

Check new parts (with ABS you have a deffinate right and wrong way), and start by using the outer bearing shell as a tool to push in the new bearing.
Lightly does it - spacing your blows - and checking every 2 blows to start with.
Take your time, wear gloves and don't rush it - you know it will go in eventually.
When it's there, check thecirclip will fit - then fit it, take it out, check and fit it again to make sure.

Now - this is the tricky bit.
Support the hub, and position the drive flange on the top. You will have to push directly on the bearings because of the design - just make sure that the driveflange is central - by rotating it, and only striking the side of the inner that is highest. If it is central, strike the whole face of the inner.
I used small block of wood on end-grain when all was in line as it will cushion any shock loads. The copper hammer also helps this - DO NOT USE A STEEL FACED HAMMER. This will result in microcracks or flats in the bearing and an early death to it.

STOP before you get 1/4 into the other side - otherwise you will push it out easily.
Turn ot over, and now use the old inner to tap the bearing onto the driveflange.
You can actually stop when you've got halfway. This is because the driveshaft nut will pull the bearing on when you assemble it. Use plenty of grease on the nut and threads.

Assemble everyhing - use new nuts and bolts. Steering rod end is a pain, but ok if you clean the threads, and use the old nut first to seat the taper, undo it, and use a new locknut.

If you put the wheel on loosely, then just rest on the ground - you can tighten the hub nut a lot easier. You will be able to feel the bearing moving as you do this. If you are religious - now is the time to pray.

This nut needs to be very tight. around 75ftlbs. which equates to a 2ft knuckle bar with me on the top of it. I used a torquewrench - which only goes up to 60ftlbs, then gave it a very little more with the bar.
REMEMBER TO STAKE THE NUTS - or use a locking cover.

You should now be able to hear a whispered conversation at 70mph - and wish you'd done it sooner.

This is one of the bearings I took out -


Not only badly pitted - but a crack that has been there a long time -possibly since it was installed over 10 years ago. Notice how the edges of the crack are rounded.
 
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