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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, thanks for all the help so far, even if not directly, but by looking through the forums I've already worked out loads. 1 being if I need to work out a fault I need pp2000.

307 2.0 110hdi

I have done all of that and now have a screen with faults

Permanent fault - turbo pressure - turbo pressure measured too low
Permanent fault - air flow meter signal. Short circuit to positive
Permanent fault - air flow meter signal. Open circuit or short circuit to earth. Flow too low
Intermittent fault - turbo pressure signal- short circuit to positive or open circuit or value to high
Intermittent fault - turbo pressure. Solenoid valve circuit short circuit to earth or open circuit.
Intermittent fault - fuel high pressure monitoring. Lack of pressure (leak)
Intermittent fault - additive quantity. Fuel additive low level reached
Intermittent fault - EGR air circuit fault. Airflow measured less than recommended.


The turbo has stopped working, it spins fine but there's no benefit from it and certainly no boost.

I the past I changed egr solenoid valve (very lowest on engine) this also had broken wire which I fixed. Mar sensor changed.

I have new additive to sort out 7th fault and 6th was leaking fuel filter which I've also fixed.

Any ideas where to start?

Thanks for looking.

Tevja.



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Check wiring harness where it goes over gearbox for damaged/broken cables. Could also be a faulty turbo solenoid valve which could be shorting out and affecting other sensors
 

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I had the same problem with the turbo spooling but not boosting,as it turns out, the tube that comes off the waste gate was blocked, yours may be split..its quite common apparently
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, will look into those suggestions and report back.


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Update,

I found turbo solenoid wire had broken so soldered that back. It's lost the turbo pressure faults arm.

I put it on planet, parameters and the egr gave me back no readings, (should have taken a pic) stayed on 5% and 85% even when I rev'ed it.

Does that reading as well as airflow faults mean maf is not working? I can feel a slight vacuum on one of the pipes as is goes into the vac tank.

Can you test the solenoids on pp?

It also emptied 1/4 tank of fuel out fuel filter a couple of weeks ago and everything is still covered in diesel, could this stop the electrics working correctly?

Cheers. Tj.


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These is no sensor for EGR on 2.0 110 its calculated based on air flow (so often will not cause a EML) which is why lots of people plug the pipe.

You could have a faulty EGR Valve therefore calculated values are low etc.

You can ignore the fault or log data when driving to get a better idea of if the valve is working.
 

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The maf may be coated in oil which will stop it reading correctly, its easy enough to remove and clean as long as you're gentle with a spare toothbrush and some washing up liquid ,rinse it off with care not to fill the plug socket with water and see how that goes
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cleaned out the maf, no change. Haven't got a new one yet,


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Should I be getting a vacuum from either of these pipes?

I'm not getting anything at idle or high revs...

I take the plug off and the vacuum behind it is strong but nothing from these two?

Also should the valve above be open or closed on startup/cold?

Thanks.


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Yes you should have vac however only disconnect one at a time or air will leak in and loose vac.

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Discussion Starter #12
Aahh that could be problem the as they were both off (loose fitting) I reattached them with better rubber hose but I guess the vacs gone... That means it needs to be re vacuumed then?

Back to the forums again


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Discussion Starter #14
The connector was blocked. I cleared the blockage and now turbo is ok. Just egr error coming up now.


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