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Discussion Starter #1
Drivers side sill is looking grotty and the constant road salt has now started to take its toll and feels a bit crusty underneath the paint

How I got away without an advisory last year ? I think I got lucky

How easy is it to weld a 307 as I have seen a few repairs on SW and they have always stood out as a repair and the welding not great

I have seen the complete side repair panel for 60 quid on the bay from Poland ?

Once you start cutting away and getting back to bright steel the job just seems to get bigger. ... reference ford transit sills

To do the job right I would cut the lot out and put in a full panel
but saying and doing is all dependant on what lurks or not underneath


A bloke I know bought a crash damaged DS3 and had a hell of a chew trying to fit a donor sill and wondered why ? galvanised chassis ? he gave up and filled it with bodge NOT GOOD :eek:

He was using a mig with argoshield gas and is normally okay for steel

Do you need a special gas or has tig welding took over doing these repairs

I have welding skills but rather ask if I need specialist gear
I have seen a spot welder that plugs into my arc welder still to do research on them things

Do you need a modern mig welder with fine amperage / digital control rather then my Cebora 130 thats been idle for 25 years or more

Don't think a garage would be interested in the job and probably say just bridge it after mot fail

Its a shame as its still a functional car for 15 years old and starts and runs as requested .. and paint work still shines well apart from the os bottom nearside is fine. so I assume a blocked drain hole in the past ?


Anybody had welding issues or tips or tricks on these 307. 2004 ?
 

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The bottom sill where you jack up the *7 series of PSA car's is 3 layers of pressed steel. (I damn well know this really well, when I went round a kerb and clipped the kerb taking out that sill in my 407 :mad: )

Incorrect jacking / damage to these sills can cause the issues you have seen. I would wash down the area every year and with a can of spray paint, respray the area every year to make sure no rot happens :)

Looking at your car, it appears this is what has happened, someone jacked up the car incorrectly, causing paint damage and the rust spread :(
 

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Try cleaning to bare metal and then reappraise. Then you can decide. My DIL managed to reprofile the nearside sill on my 307 using a Tesco bollard! Fondly enough/lucky enough it had blisters on the top front where the damage was inflicted so I was not too mad at her. I sourced a supplier in Ireland who deliver to your door with a specialist courier who only carry body panels. This way they are not packaged and are delivered unmarked. Good price too! I have yet to decide weather to use the whole panel or just cut and shut the old one using a section from the new.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Peugeots weld fine its just you need to clean the metal well to get a good weld i would just patch it not worth fitting a whole sill for that.


I need the courage to set too with a scrubber pad disc and clean it up
thing is the bubbling on the sill has run right along the whole sill

hence why I was going to get a panel

55 quid is a time saver for me and to even buy a sheet steel panel and patch it up and trying to make it look good or should I say an invisible repair

Garage jacked it on the sill with a two poster ramp
They say its the strongest part of the car as its the jacking point

When I use a jack at home I never ever lift it from there

Must be weak as noticed ... and its not right
 

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Discussion Starter #6
307. Six door hatchback !!

Finally started to commit and cut out the rot

Don't know why but it was the best shape to cut out to clean steel
stood back and it looked like another door

You can only laugh ... its a Pug 15 year old car who cares ?


So I cut a plate to suit and patched it in no billy bodge filler here

Then the sill was patched ... 2 ft long strip

If it passes MOT. I am going to rip out a better section to weld the sill
and address the inner rot

As I had limited resources and didn't expect to see the sharks teeth of rust mites and tin worm.

my upside down stuff is a bit pants but it was stitched full length and flatted off
trouble is I couldn't see through the mask so most of it was guess work

painted in red oxide

then finished in tractor enamel black gloss the next day
hard to tell from a distance
keeps it tidy anyway till the dreaded MOT prod and poke soon


Is it worth ripping apart again ?
is it too far gone already ?

Thinking of buying some small angle steel and then welding that in to stiffen it up

A day of my life wasted really ... but its all experience
 

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