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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I bought a 2001 206 last night. It has ten months MOT so I didn’t check the windscreen wipers (I know, stupid huh?) Anyway, the front and back washers don’t work and the back wiper doesn’t work. There’s no sound from the pump. I’ve checked and changed the number 3 fuse and still no joy.

Anyway, the clock by the hazard light doesn’t work either and combined with the back wiper not working I’m starting to wonder if it’s a bigger electrical problem. My son has been doom and gloom and saying it’s probably the wiring loom. He likes to look on the bright side.

Any ideas? I’m absolutely skint and am trying to avoid having to take it to a garage.
 

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Hi, I bought a 2001 206 last night. It has ten months MOT so I didn’t check the windscreen wipers (I know, stupid huh?) Anyway, the front and back washers don’t work and the back wiper doesn’t work. There’s no sound from the pump. I’ve checked and changed the number 3 fuse and still no joy.

Anyway, the clock by the hazard light doesn’t work either and combined with the back wiper not working I’m starting to wonder if it’s a bigger electrical problem. My son has been doom and gloom and saying it’s probably the wiring loom. He likes to look on the bright side.

Any ideas? I’m absolutely skint and am trying to avoid having to take it to a garage.
2001 you say - could be either pre-plex (old-school wiring harnesses) or
multiplexed with less wires and instead a 2-wire bus between central items.
For instance washers - on pre-plex everything goes through the stalk. On multiplex the COMMS module (bit behind the steering wheel where the stalks plug in) sends a message over the bus to the engine bay fusebox where one of two relays (depending on front/rear commanded) activate and flip one of the lines going to the pump from ground to +12V (both wires connected to ground while no wash commanded).
On the pre-plex, ss said, all that switching stuff happens in the switch in the stalk.

How to tell what you've got? Look at the stereo remote stalk, long slender cylindrical -> pre-plex. Short stubby square-ish -> multiplex

Washers could be the pump, I'd check the plug with a voltmeter and see if you get 12V (opposite polarity for rear/front).
You could also apply +12V and ground directly to the motor to check it.
Sits behind the inner wing plastic shield. Remove front right wheel for easier access.
Pump is less than a tenner off eBay.

Clock could be as simple as blown bulbs. Or deliberately removed to hide an error message... Easy enough to get to - top cover is just clipped in. Pull up and towards you on the edge closest to windshield. Clock secured by 2 screws. Once loose and bulb holder removed you can verify if something is displayed or if completely dead by shining a flashlight from behind, through the hole
IIRC the pinhead connector on the PCB on the earlier 206s were also a weak spot.


No good ideas on the rear wiper except measuring the wires going to it (plastic cover on inside of lid is also just clipped in.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
2001 you say - could be either pre-plex (old-school wiring harnesses) or
multiplexed with less wires and instead a 2-wire bus between central items.
For instance washers - on pre-plex everything goes through the stalk. On multiplex the COMMS module (bit behind the steering wheel where the stalks plug in) sends a message over the bus to the engine bay fusebox where one of two relays (depending on front/rear commanded) activate and flip one of the lines going to the pump from ground to +12V (both wires connected to ground while no wash commanded).
On the pre-plex, ss said, all that switching stuff happens in the switch in the stalk.

How to tell what you've got? Look at the stereo remote stalk, long slender cylindrical -> pre-plex. Short stubby square-ish -> multiplex

Washers could be the pump, I'd check the plug with a voltmeter and see if you get 12V (opposite polarity for rear/front).
You could also apply +12V and ground directly to the motor to check it.
Sits behind the inner wing plastic shield. Remove front right wheel for easier access.
Pump is less than a tenner off eBay.

Clock could be as simple as blown bulbs. Or deliberately removed to hide an error message... Easy enough to get to - top cover is just clipped in. Pull up and towards you on the edge closest to windshield. Clock secured by 2 screws. Once loose and bulb holder removed you can verify if something is displayed or if completely dead by shining a flashlight from behind, through the hole
IIRC the pinhead connector on the PCB on the earlier 206s were also a weak spot.


No good ideas on the rear wiper except measuring the wires going to it (plastic cover on inside of lid is also just clipped in.)



Hi there, I think it’s pre plex because from what I can gather from googling the later ones have a MFU but I just have a clock. Also the stereo stalk is as you’ve described for pre plex. I took the click out yesterday but couldn’t see any bulbs or where any would go. After I fiddled with it it came in but it’s very very dim.

When you say put a voltmeter on the plug for the washers what do you mean by plug?
 

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Hi there, I think it’s pre plex because from what I can gather from googling the later ones have a MFU but I just have a clock. I took it out yesterday but couldn’t see any bulbs or where any would go. After I fiddled with it it came in but it’s very very dim.

When you say put a voltmeter on the plug for the washers what do you mean by plug?
In the rear of the unit there should be a couple of holes. In those you should see the bulb holder with a rectangular end to grip to twist. The bulb holders have metal wings that makes contact with the copper traces on the circuit board inside.
Like these or very similar:


Think this one is a bigger display, IIRC the clock only ones had 2 bulbs...



Coming on faint after fiddling could point to the soldering issue, and requiring further disassembly and someone decent at soldering to fix. Might also be bulbs on their last legs with a dark coating on the inside of the glass, reducing output. Fiddling might also cause broken filaments to at least temporarily make contact again.

This youtube video might be useful:



The harness/wires coming from the fusebox/switches etc terminate in a plug that is pushed onto contacts in a socket on the pump

Requires either disconnecting the plug from the pump or possibly 'back probing' the plug, IE sticking the probes from the meter into the rear of the plug, along the wires, so as to make contact with the parts of the contacts that are crimped onto the wires.


Something like this is either stuck, or cast into the plug. By disconnecting the plu you can get at the part that actually makes contact with the contacts on the pump. If awkward to get to, one can probe along the wires to get to the part with the two taller wings, that when crimped wrap around/grip the wire
 
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