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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I've recently thought my car had a bad fuel supply, but I was wrong, tested injectors, fuel pump, and everything seems to have really high good pressure, I recently changed my coil pack to a brand new one, to no avail, now after reinstalling everything, i'm starting to be certain that the timing is off, please take a look at the videos and give me your feedback ? :)

1-Here i toggle into accessory a couple times to prime fuel, just in case, and start the car, it hesitates a bit, and once it runs, it cant rev, actually stalls when I give it some gas, the engine has an ugly noise, and shakes, feels like a misfire or running on 3 cylinders. (Note: Engine shakes really bad, but seems like my phone's video stabilization works really well :D)


2-Here is what happens when I hold the key a bit longer when cranking, this gives the engine some help to rev up above 1,000 rpm, the car starts, i get to accelerate and rev it, there seems to be general power loss very noticable below 3000 rpm, and once i let go of the gas, it either idles like it does in the first video , or it just stalls like this instance.


So what do you guys think ? I want to get hold of a PP2000 here in Norway but that seems impossible, so it seems like i have to buy one form the US, but with what you have seen in the video ? should i pursue fixing this car ? or just scrap it ?

I assume that since i can rev and get it to run that means I don't have damage to my valves, etc.. right ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think you should have Peugeot Planet diagnose the problem instead of guessing.
I'll surely do that, but as I said, i have no access to one in Norway, so i'm buying it online, which means over a week delay and I don't want to sit doing nothing till it arrives :(, maybe someone with a good ear and knowledge can know if it's timing for sure or something else that I don't know, till then i'll wait for the PP2000 to arrive, if you have any tips on anything to do let me know :)
 

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Unless the valve timing is out (jumped tooth) the ignition timing is determined by the ecu with information it receives from various sensors for crank and camshaft position, engine temperature, throttle position, manifold vacuum and engine speed. A faulty crank sensor normally shuts down the engine, bad information from the others can make it run badly or go into a "limp home" default mode, or also shut down the engine.
So you need to at least get an obd scan, better still a pp diagnosis to basically ask the car where it hurts. Guessing can be a hit and miss costly exercise. I would wait until you have a means of accurately diagnosing the problem before you do anything else.

Roger.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Issue found!

Sorry for the late update , i just forgot to check all the threads i've made (tried keeping one for each issue)

Well problem was keyway and woodruff key were broken :nono:, some one did a horrible timing belt job..

I tried the Loctite fix and it worked for a bit before it slipped again, so I'm ordering a new sprocket and woodruff key then will redo the timing belt job, will also try to get a compression check cause i suspect that some valves might have hit the pistons

Pictures of the damage can be found in the other thrread
http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/1353130-post10.html

I also bought a PP2000 and found no erros in the ECU, just some old errors during the diagnostics where i pulled off many connectors, after a reset and a 5 km drive no errors came back again :p
 

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I have similar problems like you, my engine was badly shaking and had terrible power loose, it constantly soaked plug on cylinder one near the gear box, I pulled the top cylinder and discovered a crack on one of the valves on that cylinder while the pistons and the rings in the various bore were equally not firm, I am re-ringing my engine. But I lost my timing point on the crankshaft, how do I determine the correct ignition timing for my engine from the crankshaft.. Pls.

Sent from my Snokor Z5000 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I have similar problems like you, my engine was badly shaking and had terrible power loose, it constantly soaked plug on cylinder one near the gear box, I pulled the top cylinder and discovered a crack on one of the valves on that cylinder while the pistons and the rings in the various bore were equally not firm, I am re-ringing my engine. But I lost my timing point on the crankshaft, how do I determine the correct ignition timing for my engine from the crankshaft.. Pls.

Sent from my Snokor Z5000 using Tapatalk
No worries, it's pretty simple on the crankshaft, it has to point 100% completely downwards. there is a marking line on it that you'll use for that.

But remember when you reapply the tension with the belt on the crankshaft will turn clockwise around approx. 1-2 tooth, so you need to first make sure it's pointing downwards, then turn it counter clockwise 1 tooth, if you buy a new timing belt it will have a marking on it where the mark should align with the line on the crankshaft sprocket. this makes it very easy, so what I would do is

1-Pull the tensioner mark far back to the right to remove all tension, theres' a hole on the marker where you can put something on it to make sure it doesn't jump back in place, I find it easier to remove the tensioner completely to do that, then reinstall it while keeping a pin on it to have 0 tension.

2-Align the cams and install the belt on them, follow the markings on the new belt.

3-Route the belt around the pulleys in counter clockwise order

4-Make sure the final marking line on the bottom aligns with the crankshaft sprocket marking line
5-At this point, the crankshaft will be approx. 1 to 2 teeth off TDC to the right (when looking at it from the bottom), this is before applying the tension

6-Pull off the pin that you put in the tensioner, it will immediately spring back and apply tension

7-Adjust the tensioner level until the mark is almost exactly in the middle of the marking where it should be, then tighten (make sure not to damage the nut)

8-Verify that the crankshaft is pointing fully downwards at that point with the belt marking still intact in place, it can be tricky as sometimes while applying tension you will manage to get the belt to jump.

9-Turn the engine by hand clockwise a few times until the markings on the belt align again with the markings on the engine, if they go back to the right same place then you're good to go.

Note that while putting the belt back without the proper tools it's usually tricky and sometimes the belt will skip teeth, so you'll might end up doing it a couple times before it's right.

Remember to always assume that you did something wrong, revise many times and turn the engine as many times as you can by hand to make sure everything is correct before starting!

good luck !
 

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Thanks for your contributions.... But the crankshaft sprocket don't have woodruff key, while tensioning the belt crankshaft is static while sprocket just keep moving and alter camshaft settings, or do I tie the 22bolt holding the pulley and sprocket before aligning the belt????

Sent from my Snokor Z5000 using Tapatalk
 
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