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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up the new turbo control solenoid that I ordered from local main dealer today. as soon as I saw it I could see it was not the same as the old one. I gave the parts guy the old one and he took them to their master tech, who apparently said fit it, that's what they would do!

When I ordered it and the guy was looking on servicebox, we saw that the two similar valves at the front to control the air intake actually have a different part number. When I swapped one of them onto the turbo the car ran very well with lots of power even accelerating around the 70mph mark.

Anyway I have fitted this new valve and although it now seems impossible to get the car to go into limp mode(i.e no turbo) as was happening with the old valve, it just doesn't seem right.

The car pulls ok to start with upto about 60mph and then seems a bit sluggish, if going up a slight hill at 70mph it won't gain any speed until the road levels out. On occasions it seems sluggish at lower speeds around 2000rpm.

As I say with one of the air intake solenoids the car was great.

Anyone replaced one recently, what did it look like? I attach pictures of my old and new ones. The all black one with the green o ring is the new one. The part the dealer has supplied is 1618 S5, I have seen one on ebay listed as 1618 42 which looks more like my original but is £60 compared to the £30 one from the dealer. Wish I could get my servicebox working so I could check part numbers.

Also I would like to get my head around how this valve works, it only has two wires so is it a simple vacuum on/off or does it allow varying amounts of vacuum through. Im guessing it either switches on/off to adjust vacuum in order to get the repeat sensor in the correct place or it is somehow a variable valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well went back to dealer today, they got the number of the old turbo solenoid which is the same as the two on the front for the air intake. When they put it in there system it comes up as 161842! So they are getting one in, only it's twice the price, but they did say they would sort a bit of discount....

They are at a loss as to why the 1618 S5 was listed for my car and don't seem interested in finding out. I will just have to hope the one I get on thursday sorts it.

I have done a bit of experimentation this morning as I would like to get my head round how this arrangement works. What I have determined is:-

The actuator needs vacuum to put the turbo 'on' boost, this was determined by simply pulling off the vac hose and plugging it, drove car and very little power.

The solenoid appears to have a 12v supply to it with engine started and idling, which I am guessing disappears once boost is not required.

I rigged up the suspect faulty solenoid with a vac pump, gauges and 12v supply and have become more confused.

Initially with 12v off the vacuum is allowed through the solenoid, however if you cover the outlet, this seems to operate something inside the valve and the vac is then blocked from the outlet, until you release the input vac and reconnect!

With the 12v supply on the vac is allowed through the valve and builds up on the gauge I fitted to the out port, as soon as the 12v is removed the vac on the out port is dumped.

I then tried with the other valve from the front of the engine, which works well on the turbo and the only difference which is very peculiar is that with the 12v on the vac builds, but once the 12v is removed it only dumps a bit and leaves about 200mb vac, therefore this would leave the turbo on partial boost with no voltage to solenoid, compared with the suspect faulty one which dumps all vacuum and would therefore take the turbo completely off boost.

Maybe it works differently on the car compared to my test arrangement, but I would really love to understand how this should work and what is going wrong.

I suspected the faulty one was keeping the turbo on boost at high revs and putting the car into limp, but now not so sure.

Guess I am going to have to hope the new one works on thursday and remain blind to what was really occurring.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The dealer quoted £57 something this morning, but then said there would be a bit of discount because of the mix up, so hope it will be about £50 as well....
 

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Please keep us posted. I've blocked up a pipe on mine to prevent the EGR valve opening because I can't get to the EGR valve to fit the plate, but I'd love to know why!

Does one of the pipe outputs go to the brake servo?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Picked new valve up from dealer, they discounted it to £45 due to the confusion.

Car still isn't like it is with the valve from front of engine!

To summarize what I now have is:-

Original valve fitted to turbo - Car runs fairly well with acceptable power at all speeds/revs, but intermittantly goes into limp usually in 4th gear at around 2700rpm under acceleration.

Valve I tried on turbo from front of engine - Car has more power lower down and picks up well even at 70mph+, ran with this valve for 2 weeks and didn't go into limp at all. Although I didn't check accurately I have a feeling car was using a bit more fuel with this fitted.

New valve from dealer today - Car doesn't seem too bad, but lacks a bit of power low down compared to the other valves and doesn't pick up as well at 70mph+, it will just gain a bit of speed on inclines at 70mph, but it's not till the road levels out that it starts to increase speed quicker. Just drove it for 8 miles and hasn't gone into limp.

Think I will have to leave the new valve on for a few days and see what happens, i.e limp mode/performance.

Im at a loss as to what to do with it now, to be honest if I hadn't of experienced the power it has with the valve from front of engine I would probably just be thinking it's how it's supposed to be and not particularly impressed with higher speed acceleration.

Wondering if the valve from the front was giving increased boost and making the car go better than it is supposed to?????

Im even wondering whether to find some identical cars for sale and go test drive them to compare!

Wish I could find out how this valve/actuator assembly functions/is controlled to give a better understanding of what might be wrong.

I might even try adjusting the actuator linkage to give a little more boost, anyone know how this is set up at the dealer?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just been outside investigating further.

I remembered that the valve which is now back on the air intake, didn't dump all vac when I tested it on the bench, so was sort of thinking maybe it is restricting airflow into inlet.

I took boost pipes off and found that the flap controlling air through intercooler is normally open, vacuum is required to close it. So this could be partially held shut by the valve which doesn't dump all air.

The flap for allowing air to bypass intercooler is normally shut and needs vac to open.

So it looks like when air is cold and doesn't need to go through intercooler then vacuum is applied to both flaps, and when all air is required to go through intercooler then vacuum is removed from both flaps. Wondering why two valves, maybe under certain circumstances both flaps need to be open?

At the point I checked neither had vacuum applied, guess engine is too warm at the moment, will check them with cold engine in the morning.

I then rigged the pipes so both flaps were open to rule out any air restriction, car was way down on power?!

Stopped in a layby put pipes back to where they are supposed to be, restarted engine and car had lots of power at all speeds on the 3 mile drive back home.

The mystery deepens and my head hurts!

What I would like to establish is that the turbo vane position varies as required, as opposed to being fully one way or fully the other way with no in between settings.
With 12v to the solenoid the vac is all allowed through and therefore the turbo would be on full boost, when the 12v is removed all vac on turbo side of valve is dumped and turbo would be on minimum boost.
The only way I can see an intermediate setting would be obtained is to vary voltage maybe?
My Dad has some model railway controllers, so might rig one of them up to the solenoid and vary the voltage to see if this affects the level of vacuum on the output side of the valve.
 

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I think it's frequency modulated, so that's how it works...

I did plug the vacum hoses for both butterflies with steel balls from a bearing :)
One of the solenoids failed I think, and now I just runs without the system working, it won't throw a code anyway it seem.

Only time I found it to activate the IC bypass was during DPF regeneration.

You don't possibly have a vacum leak through the actuator?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for reply, Yes guess frequency would be the obvious control....

I think I will run it for a week and assess what it is like with this new solenoid.

I hope to get a set of glow plugs next week, as one is faulty and will try to change them on Friday. Then get back to resolving this, which hopefully is the last of a ten week marathon of problems!

I guess there could be a vac leak, but I had the valve from the front of the engine on the turbo for two weeks and it ran great, but have enough experience to know it could be something else and just a coincidence that it was ok with this valve fitted!

I am also going to try putting the suspect faulty valve that was originally on the turbo, in place of the intake flap valve, as this is where that valve was when the car ran great for two weeks. Just going to go methodically through it to find out what makes it change from ok to bad!

Will also get diagbox hooked up and check readings, guess I need to get readings with both solenoids fitted, ideally on same bit of road at same speed, throttle position etc to see if different....
 

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Do you have the vi number of your car?

Looking in servicebox I find the following combinations of actuator part numbers for the 2,0 HDI FAP 135:

Throttle butterfly actuators:
1618 S4
1618 42
1618 S5

Turbo control:
1618 S5
1618 X2

My car definately uses the 1618X2 as this one has a rubber hose attached wiith a small air filter to filter the fresh air let into the system.

The S5 one seem to have the filter built in so possibly only got 2 take-offs?, while the X2 definately got 3 take offs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I will pm you the vin. This sort of info is why I would like to get my servicebox working!

The servicebox at the dealer lists the 1618x5 for my car which is what they supplied on monday and looked totally different with larger pipe connection and when fitted the car no power at 70mpg ish. This had only two pipe connections.

The solenoid that was on the turbo when I bought it and also one of the butterfly actuators is 161842. This again has only two pipe connections.

I have purchased a brand new 161842 which is now fitted to the turbo.

Wondering about this 1618x2.....

My fear is someone has changed it in the past without success, as you may recall turbo vanes were stuck in no boost position when I bought it 10 weeks ago.
 

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The 3'rd one is just to a small hose with an air filter in the end, i.e. just providing fresh air opposed to the vacum feed.

I believe the air filter and fresh air feed is taken from the side of the electrovalve for the others that only have 2 connections.

Servicebox indicates that you got a 2.0 Hdi with 4 speed auto gearbox, sounds right?

It states to use: 1618 S5 for the turbo electrovalve.

Both the throttle by pass electrovalves are: 1618 42
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for that, yes it is correct car and they are the valves that the dealer had listed on servicebox.

They supplied the 1618X5, but looks quite different with a larger connection for the pipe to turbo, I tried it but no power at 70mph, unable to accelerate unless on level or downhill ground.

What I keep coming back to is when I take the 161842 off of the butterfly that controls flow through intercooler and fit this to turbo, the car runs great.......
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Think I may finally have identified what was originally wrong, in the first place it seemed like a turbo issue with p2562 and swapping the Turbo solenoid with the intercooler solenoid cured problem.

This incorrectly caused me to jump to the conclusion it was the turbo solenoid faulty, so this was replaced with new and the original solenoid put back on intercooler flap. Problem re-appeared.

I have now been running it for two days with the brand new solenoid on the turbo and the solenoid which was originally on the turbo fitted to the intercooler flap. No problems car is running really well.

Just to confirm this, im going to put the original solenoid back on the turbo and the brand new one on the intercooler flap, if that sorts it then must of been just the intercooler solenoid at fault.

Im guessing that the flap was partially closing when it shouldn't which I presume would cause excess pressure in the boost hose between turbo and flap and starve the engine of air.

Hopefully get this concluded by the end of the week.......
 
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