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Discussion Starter #1
Hi on my way to a weekend away with the misses the car turbo went, its in a garage at them moment, but wont be looked at for a while. Does anyone know how to find out the make and model number of the turbo from the car VIN? ive looked on servicebox but there is NO information on it :(
 

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Discussion Starter #3
mines a 2.0l 110hdi RHS DW10ATED engine. luckily the turbo still spins just oil shooting out the exhaust. RAC had a quick look at it and said that there was only movement in and out on the shaft not around if that makes sense. i.e. it hadn't destroyed itself fully just failed enough to let oil enter the exhaust side. Been looking into sites etc and none find the RHS engine for a 2002 307 SW 2.0 100 HDi, funnily they only find that engine code for a 406. Mine was one of the first 307 SW to come off of the production line so it wouldn't surprise me if they dropped a 406 engine into it.
 

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mines a 2002 as well the RHS engines are not hard to find, I can give you the part number on the turbo if you wish as they are all the same on the 110 RHS
you cant use a 90bhp due to the fact the waste gate is not controlled by the ECU

ive never seen a turbo fail on these as they are pretty solid is always the boost control valve that gives the issues,

you will need to strip the turbo and all the boost hoses and intercooler and clean them before you install another turbo as well as try and clean the exhaust
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hi cmax 307, yes please if you can give me the turbo number that would be great so I can start to look at sourcing one. How do you go about cleaning the exhaust? mine is the fully welded CAT and DPF so that's going to be fun. Oil was also in the intercooler pipe an intercooler so I presume ths will need flushing and drying too. Anything else I need to be aware of?
 

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if you remove the exhaust and the DPF filter you can use a pressure washer and some degreaser that will remove the oil if all goes well, now as for the oil in there intercooler i would just use some petrol and let it soak in the intercooler then rinse it out and that will get most of it out as well

heres the part number of mine 53041015096
CITROEN C5 2.0 HDI TURBOCHARGER TURBO 53041015096 | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for that, your right the part number matches but can anyone explain the other numbers and why they are different. The numbers on the plate match nothing. I.e K03-403.550 and K03-057 EA5036957 I can find plenty of turbo with 5304-101-5096 on the case casting, but the other numbers are totally different.
 

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K03 means its a KKK turbo they are common on 110 engines 406 or c5 ones will fit but the exhaust fitting flanges change to suit fitment.

The other numbers do not need to match as long as it is a K03 from a 110 it will fit

Garrett one will fit too but only if you change inlet and outlet oil pipes and some other parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks, thought that was the case just wasn't sure. I've ordered the one suggested by Cmax, hopefully get it fitted later this week and the rest of the system cleaned out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So Ive had a new turbo fitted however the following is now coming up, ECU FAULT CODE P0246 Permanent Fault Turbo Pressure too low. When I query it with PP2000, I find that the turbo pressure measures 1506 when the turbo pressure reference value is 2000mbars at the time the fault is generated. The EGR solenoid valve OCR is at 88%, when this fault occurs the ANTIPOLLUTION FAULT appears and the EGR solenoid valve OCR turns down to 10%. Whilst driving the EGR never changes from 88% and when the engine is at rest and in neutral the turbo pressure measured is the same as the atmospheric pressure when it is expecting 1129mbars (965mbars atmospheric) anyone have any ideas.....
 

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did you set the arm up the way it came off yours?

next thing to check is your vac line from the waste gate till your turbo valve on the front of the engine and make sure its in the right way did you remove any of the valves on the front?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I believe the mechanic did set the arm up as they were slightly different on the replacement unit. I believe the old unit had 4-5 threads showing and the replacement had 9-10. if this hasn't been adjusted, how easy is it to adjust whilst the turbo is on the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
no valves removed, and the vac line is on the right way, so that only leaves the wastegate arm. which the mechanic says he didn't adjust on the replacement turbo.
 

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9 or 10 it should not be that many!, you can do it from under the car ive done it that way just make sure its up in stands first and slide your hand up and with a 10mm spanner adjust the bar so its around 3 threads in from bottom I could maybe grab a picture in the morning if you remind me,

what happens is the turbo valve is trying to pull the arm in to make boost but it needs that arm to fully close and with that being setup very high up the bar its not closing fully so your getting low boost fault
 

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no valves removed, and the vac line is on the right way, so that only leaves the wastegate arm. which the mechanic says he didn't adjust on the replacement turbo.
then am 90% sure that's your issue I did say in the private message about that needing to be done right am not having a dig or anything just saying:p

I was always told it does not matter were the arm in set as the ECU controls the boost, it does control it but wastegate still needs vacuum to pull the arm in as the ECU controls the boost valve, if you set the arm up to high then the car will need lots of vacuum to close the wastegate and when the ECU sees that the boost control was asked to make boost and none was seen by the MAP sensor then you will get the low boost fault, if the arm is set low then it wont need much vacuum to close and you will make proper boost.

so now you see that the arm does need to be setup and not just any position! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had told the mechanic that and forwarded on your really helpful PM too. would hidden oil in some pipes somewhere explain the smoke when the egr valve is limited to 10% and not the normal 88%. just worried that the replacement turbo is a no go :(
Also whilst the car was off the road I drilled 4 12mm holes through the DPF giving me a pressure differential of 35mbar at 4000rpm and 11mbar when idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
9 or 10 it should not be that many!, you can do it from under the car ive done it that way just make sure its up in stands first and slide your hand up and with a 10mm spanner adjust the bar so its around 3 threads in from bottom I could maybe grab a picture in the morning if you remind me,

what happens is the turbo valve is trying to pull the arm in to make boost but it needs that arm to fully close and with that being setup very high up the bar its not closing fully so your getting low boost fault
I believe we have the old turbo with the actuator arm untouched so i can use that, however it would be good to see if they are setup the same as yours. if you can get around to taking a photo that would be great (lord knows how you can do that as there is f all room...:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Found out what the issue was. the bracket the holds the actuator unit was ever so slightly different so that the arm although it had the same amount of threads showing was actually holding the wastegate at a different angle. Having adjusted it we are now achieving a pressure near that of the reference number. My question is, does anybody know how much play there is with the actual vs expected pressure on the turbo before the car throws a fault up? i.e. whats the tolerance on the expected pressure. at the moment the pressure on the turbo is slightly below ~50mbar that of the reference pressure, but (touch wood) no anitpollution fault i.e. low turbo pressure has reared its head yet....
 

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and theres me going to get you a picture, glad you got it sorted as for the do you mean the atmospheric pressure is too low? sceen shot would be handy if you have one so ive idea what am looking at I can check it with my own
 
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