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Discussion Starter #1
Bought my 2005 407 Hdi Automatic 2 weeks ago, it was an ebay purchase and I knew it was down on power when test driving, but had travelled 175 miles so took a chance on it as the bodywork/interior are excellent and it had only made £1220. Have found this site very useful in tackling the problems with this car so far.

First I tackled the lack of power, got the usual fault codes P2562/P0299/P0406. I determined that there was vacuum at the turbo solenoid, 925mb in and 780mb out, there was no difference in power by disconnecting the vacuum supply to the turbo. I therefore came to the conclusion the turbo needed to come off.

I then removed the Subframe and Pre-cat, at which point I was able to see the control lever on the turbo was stuck, it did free off with a little help, but as I had gone this far I thought I might as well get the turbo off, split it open, clean up the moving parts and re-assemble. I used an old fridge compressor to provide a vacuum source for testing the actuator was moving before refitting the turbo, full travel of the actuator achieved at 530mb.

Eventually got it all back together and it now goes like I imagine it should. Only part replaced was a spring clip and total cost £0 although it did take about 20 hours over three and half days. Have added a couple of pics of the internals which were sticking.

The other problem is the dreaded heater flap on the drivers side, which I started to tackle today, after reading the marker pen repair, I thought I would make a square section tube and it was almost a success, but the flap was already partially broken further along and snapped during the repair. So tomorrow I plan to attempt to cut the side of the heater box out. Then looking at the pictures of the flaps, I think I will attempt to make an all steel flap to replace it, I can roll sheet steel to the correct radius at work.

After that it just needs new discs all round and LCD display sorting!
 

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Hi mate as you know ive got same problem does the flap have to be curved and not just point to point if you know what I mean?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Neil, I scraped the worst off and then used emery cloth and scotchbrite to get it really clean. Then put a spot of oil on the pivots on re-assembly, I know the oil will burn off in seconds, but just couldn't bring myself to reassemble it dry!

Bobby, Not totally sure, guessing it has to be curved to seal properly, but will know more when I get mine apart.

Wayne, Just wondered is it possible to get the flaps out without de-gassing the aircon if I opt to remove the dash? Still don't like the idea of cutting the heater box, but certainly don't want to start disturbing the aircon.
 

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Wayne, Just wondered is it possible to get the flaps out without de-gassing the aircon if I opt to remove the dash? Still don't like the idea of cutting the heater box, but certainly don't want to start disturbing the aircon.
Hi Richard. There is some info on this below, I believe all will be clear once dash is removed and you have a good view of it all, there is a little cutting of plastic involved but not much apparently. Mine were repaired in situ (braced and bolted with a steel rod) along the length of the shaft and over the glued together section you can see on the right of the picture in my last post. Why not just do that rather than replace? Much stronger.

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/interior-55/heater-flap-repair-16582/index17.html
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Wayne, after looking at that link, Im thinking I might take the dash out rather than chopping the sides out of the heater box. Then I might make some nice new 'over engineered' steel flaps that will last the life of the car, certainly not paying around £75 for new plastic ones!
 

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Good luck with it mate, plenty info on here but it looks like you are quite practically minded anyhow. It's one of the most common problems on the 407's, crap design fault. Be interested to know how you get on (pics):)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got the dash out, not looking forward to getting it back in!

Now the flaps are out, I can confirm they do need to be curved, also the seal is kind of integral to the plastic flap, so I think making complete new metal ones would present a problem with regard to fitting a seal.

I have therefore decided to make new steel two piece shafts, which can be joined once inserted into the heater box, and weld some 1mm thick plates to these which will then be bolted to the existing flap. Picture of the plates attached. Will be making the shafts tomorrow and take some more pictures as I attach them to the flaps.
 

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nice work richard. im having power issues and have gotten almost to the point of blaming the turbo. ive read the procedure for removal in the haynes a few times, any tips since youve done it recently?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, apart from give yourself plenty of time, don't know what facilities you have but I was on a brickweave drive with a pair of ramps! Took me about 12 hours to get the turbo off and around 8 hours to put it back, plus several hours stripping and rebuilding the turbo on the bench. Guess it would be quicker second time round.

I would definitely suggest taking the subframe off although some say it isn't necessary. The worst part was getting the pre-cat off, there are two bolts holding it on, one on the passenger side lower down and another on the drivers side going into the top which you can't see, have to find it by feel. Also the exhaust clamp between the cat and turbo is well hidden above the cat, again can only feel the head, it does self expand as you undo it.

One thing I would suggest is using SINGLE HEX sockets, I find the bi-hex ones are no good if the bolt head is even slightly rounded, however the single hex ones will undo bolts that have already been rounded off by a bi-hex. With the hidden bolts on this job you don't want to end up with any that won't undo!
 

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thanks mate. ill bear all that in mind. i had trouble with the heatshield on the precat as the last nut/bolt that held it was ruined.

ill be doing mine in the street :)
 

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I think those flaps will still be working long after everything else has packed in. Very professional modification there, the way they should have been made in the first place.

PS, if willing to do that fix on other members cars you could make a bob or 2:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Turbo Lag

Now I've sorted my jammed turbo vanes, the car does have lots of power, but seems to take a little while to pick up. For example when pulling out of a junction with lots of throttle it starts of very sluggish and then you feel the turbo kick in after about 20-30 feet and it's off like a rocket.

How do other members cars pick up?

When I stripped the turbo I was careful to get the actuator linkage back exactly as it was, but wondering about trying to adjust this in the direction of more boost and see if it improves start off acceleration.

Any advice welcomed....
 

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Hi,

As the name states, I've got a Mini Cooper with the 1.6HdI engine in it. I had the turbo replaced (long story) but the car hasn't pulled strong since the new turbo was installed. I was wondering if it was the vacuum solenoid that controls the turbo pressure or perhaps the actuator adjustment.

Quick question then, how does one adjust the actuator? Seems quite hard to get to on the Mini, but I think there is a locking nut and a thumbwheel.

If I manage to access them, which way should I adjust? Increase the number of visible threads under the locking nut, or decrease them? The car seems underpowered...

Thanks!

Now I've sorted my jammed turbo vanes, the car does have lots of power, but seems to take a little while to pick up. For example when pulling out of a junction with lots of throttle it starts of very sluggish and then you feel the turbo kick in after about 20-30 feet and it's off like a rocket.

How do other members cars pick up?

When I stripped the turbo I was careful to get the actuator linkage back exactly as it was, but wondering about trying to adjust this in the direction of more boost and see if it improves start off acceleration.

Any advice welcomed....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi, Not sure which way it needs adjusting, But I would try the solenoid first.

I still had a problem with mine going into limp mode under hard acceleration at around 2500-3000rpm. I swapped the solenoid with another at the front of the engine and it's like a different car!

Intend to swap it back and if problem reappears I will order a new solenoid.
 

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Hi, thanks for this.

My problem is that the car idles and drives fine but is quite down on power. I have no error codes logged. It all started when the turbo was swapped out.

It's really frustrating, I've been chasing it for almost 2 years now. Tried all the usual suspects: air and fuel filters, leakages in the air ducts, blocking the EGR, disconnecting the MAF sensor etc... but no joy.

Car feels like a lump of cement, previously was a rocket.



Hi, Not sure which way it needs adjusting, But I would try the solenoid first.

I still had a problem with mine going into limp mode under hard acceleration at around 2500-3000rpm. I swapped the solenoid with another at the front of the engine and it's like a different car!

Intend to swap it back and if problem reappears I will order a new solenoid.
 

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It's probably something to do with the variable geometry not working properly.

Mine didn't show any "depollution" faults when I had problems with this, but it was very slow as it didn't have any boost pressure until the revs was quite high.

It shall have significant boost already at 1500rpm.

Check that the turbo electrovalve is connected correctly with inlet air, vacum in and pipe to turbo, if not it might just turn off after a few seconds after start up.

Only deplooution fault I got due to this was when revs were high at certain conditions with full throttle, it overboosted and I got fault related to map sensor.
 
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