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Discussion Starter #1
last few months the only fob for my '06 407SW played up- several presses, some delay, then remote unlock ok; occasionally instant. Ignition was ok then. Tried new fob bat. As it worsened I resorted to old tricks that worked briefly.. main glovebox fuse pulled a couple of minutes on a few occasions, helped remote lock responsiveness briefly. Then also, sometimes ignition needed a few attempts to get by the immobilizer, so did the old insert key/on/lock button/release/remove, worked ok several times for a while then had to do it every time for several more occasions.. worked every time until the last. now nothing... Tried the full, boot up, bsi reset procedure twice. No probs show on planet, so a new key ordered just in case but... symptoms make me wonder if it might actually be the transponder sensor on ignition tumbler.. there again, that wouldn't account for earlier intermittent remote unlocking probs. hmm mbe two probs here?

Fob has two pcb mounted chips (would rather it had a slot in replacement transponder chip but not so); enough gubbins to remote lock & work ignition fine for years. Three replacement bats tried =new Duracells & one other so that's out. Now a few days of no car awaiting new key, but think it may not help when coded? no beeps keys in door open, immob problem only shows on dash. Oh dear what can the matter be?!
 

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If i read correctly you have 2 keys and neither work and both used to work if this is correct then its unlikely the keys are the issue its something on the car
 

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from reading i believe you have just one key that does not start and remote is intermittent

the remote being flat or not working had nothing to do with it not starting

these flip key do go faulty and can sometimes be fixed by re soldering the goldish coloured Ariel and the little resistor behind it on the other side of the pcb failing that it could be the pick up ring on the car or the key had it, the car could have even lost its settings if the remote dont work at all

what i do to permanently fix is to get the key transponder reading again and clone onto a separate carbon chip then remove the gold Ariel and glue the chip on the pcb

what i do to permanently fix is to get the key transponder reading again and clone onto a separate carbon chip then remove the gold Ariel and glue the chip on the pcb
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No, just the only key, another ordered earlier today. So I can't rule out
the key but it sounds unlikely logically given the way it's gone; now have a few days of no car to find out; but could do with covering the quite likely other cause, whatever it might be maybe I could be addressing that sooner? cheers
 

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No, just the only key, another ordered earlier today. So I can't rule out
the key but it sounds unlikely logically given the way it's gone; now have a few days of no car to find out; but could do with covering the quite likely other cause, whatever it might be maybe I could be addressing that sooner? cheers
if you have a shop local that makes car keys take the key in and ask them to id the transponder if it does not id then its the key if it id's then the key is fine
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks Trustme, the soldering sounds like a possible thin but such fine scale far beyond my skills to not damage the adjacent chip, or even the resistor, even with spray freeze in place of a heat sink. Looking closely I now see what must be the transponder on the opp side to the chips, by the battery, looks more approachable to solder on than the ariel... it seems to be a miniature multilayer pcb so I'd need to piggyback a replacement component. best left until I've an alternative key to fall back on! :eek:
 

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thanks Trustme, the soldering sounds like a possible thin but such fine scale far beyond my skills to not damage the adjacent chip, or even the resistor, even with spray freeze in place of a heat sink. Looking closely I now see what must be the transponder on the opp side to the chips, by the battery, looks more approachable to solder on than the ariel... it seems to be a miniature multilayer pcb so I'd need to piggyback a replacement component. best left until I've an alternative key to fall back on! :eek:
if you take pictures or scan both sides of the pcb and upload on here i will circle what i mean needs soldering as i think you are getting confused with the chip
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I mean in response to having a local locksmith id the key, if this means read the transmitted id (or just see its signal present?) A read ID might = the pin code revealed could used for cutting a replacement blade?


PCB image to follow, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi, here are pcb pics. Though rather blank, magnified think I make out something like 25:C A on what seems like the transponder. I suspect many other fobs might use ID46 (433Mhz) but I've never seen inside another fob so who knows; maybe most UK 407's use this one whatever it is?

 

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Id means read the chip to see if it is working it can not be copied with just the chip as id46 you need to also sniff data from the car and you need a working key to do this
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Clean the chip on the left with some solvent and then put some flux on the two little resistors on the left and heat with a soldering iron then do the same to the gold coil on the other side
Thanks Trustme. The dry joint treatment to those points looks easy at this magnification!
At actual scale... I've considered & chickened out, eyes and iron not up to it- I'm still at veroboard scale.
Plan: try recode when pin and new key arrives. If the new but not old key takes, it was the old key. If neither take, its BSi corrupt or transponder ring... replace latter next. If nothing works, get therapy. If its just the old key, mbe try having it repaired, or if thats not possible, get a new temp controlled iron with tiny bit and a magnifying soldering mate, and just bite the bullet. What could possibly go wrong?!
 
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