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Discussion Starter #1
Had a search but could not find any torque values for bolts and screws etc.

In particular, I need to know the torque value of the rear axle pivot bush pinch bolt and nut, the rear shock absorber lower pinch bolt and nut.


The 13mm pair and 15/16mm pair of bolts holding the rear axle bush mount to the chassis. That retains the rear axle bush.

Also, the upper shock absorber top mount plate pair of bolts, 13mm.

If there is a sticky / page I can redirect to that would be great.

Thanks
 

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In the Haynes manual it does not use your description terminology but it mentions these.
a. rear axle mounting bracket to body bolts 62Nm(46 lbf ft)
b. rear axle to mounting bracket 76Nm(56 lbf ft)
c. shock absorber upper bolts 62Nm(46 lbf ft)
d. lower shock absorber lower mounting nut 57Nm(42 lbf ft)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Fantastic, thanks Madbad.

For anyone doing the rear axle bush removal....

a. rear axle mounting bracket to body bolts 62Nm(46 lbf ft)
There are 4 . 2 x13mm bolts. Difficult to torque due to limited access.
2x16mm longer bolts.

b. rear axle to mounting bracket 76Nm(56 lbf ft)
I've put nut on it but intend to torque up when car is resting on ground, so not to preload bush.

c. shock absorber upper bolts 62Nm(46 lbf ft). Can be accessed easily to torque up.

d. lower shock absorber lower mounting nut 57Nm(42 lbf ft)
Again, will torque this one up fully when vehicle on ground.


Anyone replacing rear axle bush. You don't need to disconnect the flexi brake hoses just in front of rear axle. The right rear side is the problem side, the fuel tank interferes with the bolt b being removed. But can be done without stretching rear axle.
Compared to other cars I've worked on the bump stops on shocks and top/bottom platic/rubber cups around spring are in good condition. I bought some new bolts, Eg bottom of shock absorber, bolt b going through bush.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Yes, did rear axle bushes in situ.
Metal drill bit on solid rubber parts of bush, then powertool hacksaw with metal saw around metal centre bit of bush.
Chisel, flat ended screw driver to collapse plastic sleeve of remains of bush.
I tried bush removal kit but bush is too tightly held.

One question I have is the importance of putting the bush bolt to mounting bracket the 'right way'. The nut is on the outer part of car. This means the bolt must be pulled out towards the car's fuel tank. On right rear bush this means the bolt is obstructed by fuel tank. Not an issue with left rear side.

Orientation important?

Interestingly, the lower shock absorber bolt and nut have the opposite orientation. The bolt is on outside of shock and nut is on inside edge of shock.


I put new bolt and nut back like originally fitted as I don't suppose it will need doing again.

Left rear bush, which was thought to look in better condition came out in 30 mins. It was 'dried' rubber and shredded quite easily.

Car has done 40k miles, but is 14yrs old.

As one rear shock was dead and other one took 25s to return to extend after compression, versus 5s for the new shock, so basically nearly dead.

Is it likely the front McPherson strut shocks are broken or will these outlast the rear shocks? Opinions?

Ps car had been looked after, but not seen many motorway miles.

Thanks
 

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Getting the bushes out like that on the bench is awkward enough so well done for doing it in semi situ. Have you a ramp so you could work head height or were you at ground level as I have to work?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Worked on them at ground level in garage.
A 4 post ramp would be nice...🙂
10k? And tall ceiling.

I have thought about a pit, but other than oil changes and exhausts and painting underbody, I cannot think what other uses a pit would serve.

Just finished painting car today underbody. Servicing brake slide pins tomorrow, as my other car developed a slide pin seizure related I think to use of copper.slip.
I've shelled out on some silicone, PTFE lube for slide pins and very high temp ceramic brake grease for the back of pads.
 
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