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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. Is there a quick fix for the following. I set off in my 508 Allure, 65 plate, and the drive is without incident. The check lights appear, then go off, and the stop/ start and auto handbrake work as they should. But after a few minutes, the STOP light comes on, along with the ABS warning, followed closely by Faulty esp/asr then Faulty handbrake system. The brakes continue to work, but the handbrake has to be manually engaged, and the dash has more lights on than Blackpool's golden mile. Any help and the suggestion of a cheap fix would be appreciated. This just started today and affected four journeys. Thanks all.
 

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I would check the battery voltage first or is the car used regularly?..if so check charging rate...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply... So quick! However, it just had a brand new AGM battery fitted on Friday last week. The car is used regularly, and the correct voltage is passed to the battery.
 

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Ah....thats answered that then....its was just an idea as peugeots are voltage sensitive....
 

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All sound like a voltage related fault, if you had the battery changed double check (if fitted) that the aux switching unit (on top of the battery) is still plugged in properly and if you have battery charge sensor on the negative terminal it has not been damaged.

It appears quite common for then to be damaged etc if someone is a bit heavy handed changing the battery
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies so far. All to be taken into consideration, and tomorrow the bonnet will be up and I'll get to the connections and check everything. I'll let you all know what I discover.
 

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I have a similar intermittent problem on 2012 508 Allure 2.0 diesel which happens in very hot weather. Turn engine off with long button press and everything resets to normal - until the next time maybe months later. I had a plug-in voltage meter fitted to 12v outlet in console which shows 13 to 14 volts in normal running but a spike of 16 to 18 volts when all the warning lights come on. If I am on the freeway and can't stop, I lose systems one by one - abs, power steering, air con fan, sat nav/ radio and then clunk - limp mode in third gear. Because everything resets my service mechanic can't tell what is causing this issue. Car runs fine 99.9 % of the time. Have you checked your output voltage? It may be high also.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi. Finally got a great day to get the bonnet up and play. Sadly, all things are intact, and the voltage output is 14.4 when running, and 12.6 resting. May be a sensor somewhere. I will have to go to Perry's, to get expensive ideas, and maybe a fix! I'll just apply for a remortgage now. I'll post the results when I have them, but I can't take the car in till October as they are very busy.
Just in case anyone has any more ideas, my problem is, after driving for five minutes...ABS fault warning. Then, ESP/ESR fault warning. Then Auto handbrake failure. Then, anti roll back failure.
When these faults appear, the stop/start doesn't work. I've scratched my head bald 😂. I did a bsi reset, but didn't think it would do anything. It didn't. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr!
 

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No reason to apply for a mortgage-yet. Any decent garage should be able to pull codes from the vehicle if you don't have access to Diagbox.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the encouragement! I do suspect an ABS wheel speed sensor, and these sensors only cost about £15 each. Trouble is, how can you decide which wheel has the defective sensor? Easy if the wires are visibly compromised, but if they aren't? I've done most jobs on cars, from head gaskets to engine replacement.... the simple brake discs and pads replacement to injector replacement and turbo replacement... But electronics fries my brain! That's why Perry's may be involved, and so a £15 part will inflate in cost, and just to scratch their heads and take a sharp intake of breath, this main dealer will charge a fortune. Ha!
 

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Where are you located? There's a diagbox map of the forum members and maybe someone can read the codes off of your car for a cuppa. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Accrington, Lancashire. GB. I'd like to check the ABS fuse...I presume like other cars, the 508 has one? Can't locate it though. Anyone know which fuse it is, if it exists?
 

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I am Colchester Essex if that helps and can plug it in for you. The trouble is unless you can repair it yourself most garages would be wary of carrying out a repair based on someone else's diagnosis and you would still need diagbox after any such repair to reset any faults / programming etc. You may not need a new sensor could just be dirt or road grime on the sensor. Jack each wheel up, remove wheel in turn, clean each sensor with degreaser. Reset faults with diagbox. I am not a mechanic but that's what I would do. Go for the simple stuff first before applying for a remortgage with Peugeot.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi. .. Thanks for the offer, but you're about 4½-5 hours away. I do like Colchester, and Clacton on Sea for that matter, but it's a bit too far asI'm caring for my wife who's enduring cancer, so I never travel far from her, and when I do go out, it's only for an hour max. Thanks so much anyway!
 

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Hi. .. Thanks for the offer, but you're about 4½-5 hours away. I do like Colchester, and Clacton on Sea for that matter, but it's a bit too far asI'm caring for my wife who's enduring cancer, so I never travel far from her, and when I do go out, it's only for an hour max. Thanks so much anyway!
Sorry to hear mate and good luck with everything.
 

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ABS fuse can be on front face of fuse box (not top as you would think) which requires inner section to be lifted up.

Or if you have the external power relay module (normally on top of the battery cover) its one of the strip fuses in the module

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you. Does it have a specific colour or identifying mark? Or is it obvious by its being the only one? I'll go hunting tomorrow. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi all! Sorted! At least, I think so... The fuse next to the one pictured, on top of the battery, was corroded inside. The circuit was complete one minute, but dead the next, as movement from road roll and the engine, coupled with heat, disturbed the connection. That's my assumption! Anyway, it's been working fine since I replaced it, but only on one journey so far, so I'll keep you posted if it goes wrong again and I need to look for something else. Quite a big capacity fuse...20amp. Thanks so much everyone for all your keen interest. I just love this forum, and my Pug and I have made up.
 

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Glad we have hopefully helped fix it
 

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Discussion Starter #20
" In the multitude of counsellors there is accomplishment".
All I need to do now is fix the driver's heated seat ( it's not working and never has worked since I've owned it) and I'll have a perfect car. Well, when I've seen it do over 47mog! Thanks again!
 
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