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Hiya everyone. Beginning to wish i didnt buy this car.. first the antipollution fault issues which we seem to have resolved for now.. but now that I've done more research into the engines and spoken to some garages, apparently its common for the timing chains to go slack on these?! I would get it replaced as a precautionary measure but have beem quoted nearly £800! The car is 2010 1.6 sport petrol and has done 830000 miles. Am i better off just selling it before the chain goes bad?! Really wish I'd done more research before buying it. Does anyone have any advice/experience? Thanks
 

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I've had the lot done on my RCZ. Chain, tensioners and VVT sprockets.
£1000, could have had it done for less at a local garage, but I opted for a Peugeot dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah i cant warrant spending that much anytime soon. I dont know whether to risk keeping the car or sell it on. Gutted.
 

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I've been getting an intermittent slight rattle on my 308 sport which I'm fairy sure is the chain but only now and then on cold starts but fine when engine warm. like you I'm not willing to spend that kind of money at least not yet so I've bought the latest revision chain tensioner and waiting to fit that, as apparently its often just a failing tensioner causing the rattle. But the chain can't be ruled out until its checked for any stretch and if out of tolerance would need replacing.
I was hoping someone else had done the replacement tensioner job and could advise on a couple of things, but it looks like I'm just going have to do the straight swop of parts and see if it cures the noise. I don't have any other problems fault codes etc.
Your best thing is if your going to keep the car and it has no chain rattle, is to service regularly using recommended oil and never letting it get to low, keeping well topped up and it could be fine for years. But replacing the tensioner (about £40 for the part) is also a good precaution to have done sometime if you decide to keep your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Its not rattling yet but done 83000 miles and after all I've read about these engines im wondering if i should do it as a precuationary...saying that im still not prepared to spend £800!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks i will keep eye on the oil. I've just had oil and filter change, how often should i be changing the oil on these? Thanks
 

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Keeping an eye on the oil level is a must. Even if it means 3/4 times a week. I check mine every Friday before my work shift pattern, and once midweek.
My RCZ which has the same basic engine takes 0-30.

So far I've done every 6 months per oil change.
 

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A lot is down to poor servicing and running low on oil

The 1.6hdi is the same but now the service interval has been dropped you don’t see as many
Mine on 105k and I can’t hear any rattles

What does the book say for changing it most manufacturers say there for life


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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hi..

im not sure i have same problem or doubts, when i ever i start car in early morning car hesitate on idle with slight vibration and some plate/metal sounds coming which goes away after 30 secs. later warm up car has no problems in idle or drive at all infact very smooth idling even at stops.
My car 1.6 VTI petrol 2012 model, manufacture year Aug/2011 mileage 190000kms, major service was done at 180,000kms at peugeot dealer replacing thermostat,coolant flush/replaced, spark plugs and coils replaced, air and fuel filter replaced (yes fuel filter for petrols in this region), engine oil and filter replaced with total Quartz 9000 5w-40 reason high ambient temperature 50 centigrade.
 

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Don't worry yourself about it, I worried myself about it, and although its very mentioned everywhere, just remember that's only a few out of 1000's of these cars that Peugeot have made and sold, realistically they should last 200,000 miles.

Most people will recommend an oil and filter change every 12 months, but it really depends on how many miles you're doing in it, it may not need changing for 24 months, use a decent quality oil, not some cheap rubbish, I put Castrol Magnatec Easy Stop Start 5w-30 in mine, check the oil once a week, as others have said, you'll know when the time is right to change the oil.

The chain and gears are lubricated by the engine oil, so its imperative to keep this topped up and clean, otherwise you can defo expect trouble.

I was under the impression the main problem was the top timing chain guide, £7.97 from Peugeot and its an item they keep on the shelf, which also makes me think this is the issue, its very thin plastic, and wears and breaks quickly causing the chain to rattle, its held down with a metal bracket and 2 bolts, very very easy to change yourself....or your partner, just remove the air filter cover, remove the rocker cover, and its right there in front of you, remove the 2 bolts holding it down, lift it off, put the new one on, lube it up with some oil, fasten the 2 bolts to hold it in place, replace the rocker cover and air filer cover, job done, 30mins tops.

Mine rattles first thing in the morning whilst the oil is getting to the top of the engine, but then goes quiet after that, its only to be expected when its been sitting there still all night.

This part here is the culprit and easy to change, you can see how thin the plastic is and with a metal tensioned chain running over it all the time, it doesn't last long:

And theres a video here showing its that piece, I know this is the Mini, but its the same engine and same problems, you can see in the video that his has broken into 3 pieces and had to recover 2 of the pieces from the engine, he explains how this was causing the chain to rattle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=405&v=u6E_BBV_REs
 

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Its not just a few engines dont kid yourself remember this engine is also used by BMW with the same issues i have seen quite a few engines with chain issues over the last few years so i would add a zero to your estimate at least !!

Chains are not very good to start with but add in poor oil servicing by the owners and the rubbish guides/tensioner AND the bad oil pumps it is a wonder so many still work !!
 

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@Seanie280672

thanks for reply but i think most of the cars are effected with this timing chain stretch issue. I have been to bmw forums and most of n14,n16,n18 and n47 engines have this timing chain issue. The least good thing about this issue is its chain not belt so no worries of break but replacing cost is an issue.
 

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@Seanie280672

thanks for reply but i think most of the cars are effected with this timing chain stretch issue. I have been to bmw forums and most of n14,n16,n18 and n47 engines have this timing chain issue. The least good thing about this issue is its chain not belt so no worries of break but replacing cost is an issue.
They do break, but you normally get plenty of warning before they reach that stage, the rattle, misfiring, poor performance, difficulty starting etc, normally caused by skipping teeth as the chain get looser.

The guy I brought my 308 off was a very dishonest seller, unfortunately, and although the service manual says the chain was changed at 65,000 miles, (currently has 85K on it) I don't honestly know if he's just written that in himself.

I only just discovered a couple of days ago what the issue is with the tensioners, but its generally the tensioner and top guide that causes the chain to stretch, ive got to replace the rocker cover itself tomorrow, you can test the tensioner whilst that cover is off, so im going to have a look at it, i'll change the top guide anyway for the sake of £8, but if the tensioner is showing signs of the fault, i'll whip that out too and change it over.

Yes its a very expensive job to have done at a garage, but personally, I do mine myself, its not a difficult job at all, just very time consuming, the parts are fairly cheap, £100 would get you the kit and the setting tool.

What I would like to know though if anyone has any information on it is its my understanding there was 4 revisions for the tensioner, how can I make sure I get the latest revision ?

this is the tensioner issue for another car, I cant find anyone demonstrating it for the Peugeot, but id imagine its the same problem:
 

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It seems long oil change intervals and weak/faulty tensioner causes timing chain issues. Not sure about the tensioner revisions but best bet will be to buy from dealer as they have most updated parts. I bought 2 days back lower engine torque mounting when mechanic removed the old worn mounting he found new mounting is different. I contacted dealer and they said its revised updated mounting to handle more vibrations and torque.
 

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hi,

read through and follow these article on 1.6thp engines and your 308 will give you a reason to smile.
https://www.etuners.gr/peugeot-citroen-thp-engine-maintenance-servicing-101/

for the rattling replace tensioner, its so easy to replace. you dont need to put new chain.

for the rough idling its defnately carbon deposits on your intake valves usually occuring at 70k plus odometer reading, you need to do walnut blasting of your intake valves.
after walnut blasting ensure you install oil catch can to reduce carbon build up.
 

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That only applies to SOME lucky people with well serviced engines the vast majority ARE chain issues.

I stripped my THP engine at 95k miles and the chain was past its best the valves on the other hand were still pretty clean just slight carbon build up on the backs of them it had been well serviced with lots of history but i got so fed up with the daily lottery of if its going to run good or not i just binned the car :)

When it ran right it was great but it was different every day!
 

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hi,

read through and follow these article on 1.6thp engines and your 308 will give you a reason to smile.
https://www.etuners.gr/peugeot-citroen-thp-engine-maintenance-servicing-101/

for the rattling replace tensioner, its so easy to replace. you dont need to put new chain.

for the rough idling its defnately carbon deposits on your intake valves usually occuring at 70k plus odometer reading, you need to do walnut blasting of your intake valves.
after walnut blasting ensure you install oil catch can to reduce carbon build up.
Not right, if your chain has reached rattling stage as Reliable said, you need to change the lot, if its rattling, then its also stretched, make a habbit of changing the tensioner every 20k miles and regular oil changes, however at the rate these engines burn oil, then generally all that is required is an oil filter change as mine always has fresh oil in it.

Its not so easy to change the tensioner at all either, engine mount has to come off, engine mount support bracket, rocker cover has to come off, fuel pipes removed or pushed out of the way, breather pipes out of the way, air filter cover needs to come off, you then need the locking tool to lock the cams and the fly wheel which is a complete PITA, and spark plugs need to come out too in order to find TDC, tensioner on its own requires a lot of confidence, however if you can do just the tensioner, then you can do the whole chain yourself as theres not that much more involved other than removing a wheel, inner wheel arch, aux belt, crank pully and a few more bolts.
 
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