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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All
I have a whirring noise coming from the timing belt area. I've checked all the pulleys run by the auxillary belt and they all seem fine, so next step is to get inside the timing cover. As I have to get the covers off I'm going to change the belt anyway as this was last changed about 60000 miles ago. I've never changed the belt on hdi before and last time I changed a belt was about 10 years ago on my old rover.

Just wondering is there anything I need to watch out for? I also intend changing cam and crank oil seals as car has done 144k.

Would appreciate any advice. car is 307sw 2.0 hdi 90, 53 plate.

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You will need the tools to lock the flywheel and camshaft sprockets. OK, plenty of us have done this with the aid of tippex markings and old drill bits, but do that at your own risk!.
Some of the screws for the cam cover are a pain to get to, you will need to support the engine as the right hand mounting has to come off.
The crankshaft bolt might be difficult to loosen, don't use the flywheel locking tool to hold the flywheel when you tackle this.
I believe you will also need torx sockets and keys.
A competent diy mechanic should be able to do this job, but make sure you have the tools you need before starting work.

Roger.
 

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the 2.0 isnt too bad to do. you need to unbolt the starter to lock the flywheel

the crankshaft pulley cant be a pain to get off even with an air gun.

there is a process of using a socket and a bar. and flicking the starter to get it off. you need to be proper competent though and have balls lol

the actual setup inside is ok. the tensioner doesnt have a window like newer cars to see the perfect position.

you either need a tensioner tool. or use the twist test but this is at own risk
 

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Also, if it's anything like my 2.0 engine, you will need a square key for the tensioner. If memory serves me right, the square bar for house door handles fits nicely. Cut one to length to allow you to use an open ended spanner to tension the belt.
 

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As above.
Make sure you buy a O/E kit like "Gates" including a water pump.More than likely its the water pump making the noise?.
Also remember the fuel pump is not timed,no need to lock it.
As for the oil seals,I would only change them if they are leaking oil.From my experience they very rarely do.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the replies, i', feeling fairly confident with this now.

Just one other question, I've been browsing the internet and apparently some models have a CAM pulley with three bolts on it to allow slight adjustment? Does this apply to my vehicle 2003 reg 2.0 hdi 90?

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for info. Once starter is removed is locking location for crank easy to locate and will 7.5mm/8mm drill bit fit here? (same size as camshaft I think?)

I've also read somewhere some models that care needs to be taken with crank sprocket once bolt and pulley is removed as apparently the slot in the sprocket allows some minor adjustment? Has anyone come across this?

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You will have adjustment either on the cam sprocket or the crank keyway this is just to allow for tolerances in parts you just fit the belt with all the slack at the tensioner side if you have a cam with adjustment leave the bolts loose till the belt is tensioned then tighten them its really nothing to worry about.

DO NOT use the crank locking pin to loosen crank pulley it is not for that purpose

You can get at the locking hole without removing starter IF you know where it is :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for reply. I take it then that the locking hole is between the engine block and starter?

Will 8mm drill bits fit both cam and crank locking holes? I checked my tools last night, I have plenty of 8mm bits, but the next size down I have is 6mm!

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Discussion Starter #13
Managed to get the job done this weekend.

I decided to pull out the starter motor to find the crank locking hole. What I did find before removing the old belt was that the cam and and crank locking holes were not quite lined up and that after fitting the new belt and setting the tension, due to the keyway on the crank sprocket, the crank pulley must be fitted to lock the crank sprocket in place.

I think the most awkward part of the job to be honest was removing the upper rear timing belt cover. I ended up putting to much pressure on the air duct pipe at the rear of the engine and broke a clip which secures it.

The car is running fine, appears to have more power, but the original noise is still there so not sure where this is coming from?

I also have a new noise when revs are at between 1000 and 1500 a sort of whistling sound so not sure if something has been damaged through jacking the engine up and down?
 
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