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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
car 2006 307 sw 1.6 hdi 110bhp

I have a water leak at the bottom of the timing belt casing so suspect water pump. I've also not change the timing belt since owning the car and 3 yrs and 50k miles later will change the belt and tensioner the same time.

I've read as much as i can with my haynes but the more i read on here the more it puts me off with some users having problems on timing slipping, woodruff key, etc.
I need to get the crankshaft pulley off so can i just lock the flywheel or should i also lock the cam and crankshaft pulley in place.

I no longer use the car as i've bought a new car, but would like to pass it on to my son.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Morning

I locked the flywheel and took off the crankshaft pulley, removed timing belt cover and could see the water leak from water pump. Before i take off the engine mount ( coffe break ) i have taken the pin from flywheel, replaced crankshaft pulley so i could line the 3 spockets up with the locking holes but the locking hole on the oil pump housing looks as if it has been damaged previously.

**** I assume i can lock the top cam and fuel pump spocket and make sure the crankshaft flange doesn't move while changing water pump, timing belt, tensioner etc ?

thanks again
 

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Timing belts aren't too difficult to do in the grand scheme of things, just a lengthy and methodical job.

If it's not too late (as this was last updated a few hours ago), just make sure the camshafts don't move when putting the belt on. I managed to knock one of them on a Rover T16 which I was changing years back without a locking tool and it took me about an hour to get the camshafts re-aligned.

Other than that, check and double check all alignment marks during and after the belt is fitted, then make sure you rotate the engine a few times with a breaker bar on the crankshaft nut; doing this will ensure the valves aren't hitting the pistons, if nothing is contacting when rotating by hand, triple check all timing marks, if they are still lining up after being rotated a few times you should be good to go.

Good luck, you can do it!
 

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Timing belts aren't too difficult to do in the grand scheme of things, just a lengthy and methodical job.

If it's not too late (as this was last updated a few hours ago), just make sure the camshafts don't move when putting the belt on. I managed to knock one of them on a Rover T16 which I was changing years back without a locking tool and it took me about an hour to get the camshafts re-aligned.

Other than that, check and double check all alignment marks during and after the belt is fitted, then make sure you rotate the engine a few times with a breaker bar on the crankshaft nut; doing this will ensure the valves aren't hitting the pistons, if nothing is contacting when rotating by hand, triple check all timing marks, if they are still lining up after being rotated a few times you should be good to go.

Good luck, you can do it!
Very good advice. :iagree: I did my cambelt a few years ago. Check the timing, rotate engine and check timing again. Nothing worse than having to take everything off again because your a tooth out :tantrum: . Check, check and check again. in fact do it again. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice all

New water pump fitted and new belt kit just put on along with the new tensioner. locking bolts dont seem to have moved so hopefully once i tension the belt and turn it 6 rotations of the crankshaft pulley it should relign with the locking holes again.

I wont have time to finish it tonight but will double check again tomorrow before putting engine mounting back on and turn it over..

One question it that i had 2 different instructions with the gates belt kit which shows the fuel pump locking hole at 2 different postions ? one at 12pm and one at 5pm.
I've just kept the pulleys as they were before taking belt off :) my fuel pump pulley was at 12, crankshaft pulley at 12 and camshaft pulley at 11 ?

hope it all goes well tomorrow as its not been started in a couple of weeks.

thanks
 

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Thanks for the advice all

New water pump fitted and new belt kit just put on along with the new tensioner. locking bolts dont seem to have moved so hopefully once i tension the belt and turn it 6 rotations of the crankshaft pulley it should relign with the locking holes again.

I wont have time to finish it tonight but will double check again tomorrow before putting engine mounting back on and turn it over..

One question it that i had 2 different instructions with the gates belt kit which shows the fuel pump locking hole at 2 different postions ? one at 12pm and one at 5pm.
I've just kept the pulleys as they were before taking belt off :) my fuel pump pulley was at 12, crankshaft pulley at 12 and camshaft pulley at 11 ?

hope it all goes well tomorrow as its not been started in a couple of weeks.

thanks
Providing non of the pulleys moved you should be good to go. just triple check everything before you turn her over, then turn it over by hand then check again!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fuel pump does not need timed on an HDI regardless what haynes tell you !!
Just read that in the Haynes manuel, it says the locking hole is at 5 o'clock but timing hole is at 12 o'clock.

( Are you saying as long as the cam shaft is locked at 11pm and crankshaft pulley is locked at 12 o'clock it doen't matter where the fuel pump pulley is as it only pressurises the fuel in the fuel rail ?? )

I'll be checking tension of the belt tomorrow before proceding to rotate by hand to check the locking holes still match up after 6 rotations of the crankshaft or 12 rostations of the camshaft :)

thanks
 

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That is correct the pump is just a pump and serves no timing purpose the ecu controls timing

Haynes are quoting data based on older engines where the pump is timed !!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for that Reliable as i was trying to put the belt on without the fuel pump pulley moving.

I did try to tension the belt once but it seemed to tension the belt on the tension side only and not between the cam and crankshaft pulley so thought i would check all again tomorrow when its light as i want to make sure the belt is sitting correctly as i wouldn't want to be a tooth out once i start to rotate it.

Tomorrow will tell if i've done it correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Edit: ignore this, it also says to align them in the Haynes manuel

Just out of curiosity, does the tensioner point G have to be in the center of the plate pointing to the peg for it to be the correct tension

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Morning all

Fitted timing belt, checked and double checked and locking holes match up after rotating crankshaft as described in manual.
Before putting the casings on i though i would try and start the car and although its trying hard, it will not fire up.

The car has been standing on my drive for over a month ( about 6 weeks i think ) as i've bought a new car and until i had time to replace the water pump and timing belt before passing it onto my son. I've checked for any water in the fuel filter and primed it and also noticed the economy mode active on the panel so will put the battery on charge in a minute and try again later.

Any thing else i can check as the cars been standing a while... should i try and get a tow to start it.

note: I recall aboout 2 weeks ago starting the car as its not been started for roughly 4 weeks and it started but sounded a bit rough but didn't seem to rev and soon cut out.. The car was driven daily before leaving it on the drive 6 weeks ago with no problems apart from the usual egr and glow plug errors..

thanks

I do have PP if there is anything i can check
 

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check the crank position sensor it sits next to the crankshaft pulley. you normally have to unbolt it so is it back on?

as regards of the tensioner yer in between that window is fine. i normally do the twist test on the longest run to be sure too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
yes crackshaft sensor is on, sitting correctly and bolted. i'll take off again and check the wires now as i have not put the casings on yet. :)

yes also checked the twist test and checked locking holes line up again after trying to start it.. while i had the car apart i also put a blanking plate on the egr and cleaned the egr at the same time ( but that wouldn't matter would it ) ?? cheers for your reply
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
This economy mode activated just means the voltage is low and wouldn't stop the car starting ? Strange as i charged the battery up and still had the message on dash.

I also have been trying to adhere to the 3 minute rule when disconnecting and reconnecting battery.

Time to put my Planet on it but what should i be looking for.. cheers all
 

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Economy mode wont go away till it starts because the BSI needs to see the engine running it wont stop it starting though

Live data parameters 1 cranking speed cam and crank sync yes or no and fuel pressure all while cranking are what we need to see
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Economy mode wont go away till it starts because the BSI needs to see the engine running it wont stop it starting though

Live data parameters 1 cranking speed cam and crank sync yes or no and fuel pressure all while cranking are what we need to see
I'll see if i can find what you mean tomorrow

What i just noticed is when i turn on ignition i have a buzzing noise and wont stop until i have turned off ignition. I was going through actuator tests and when i came to the fuel actuator test ( sorry i have only just come in and bloody forgot exactly what it was ) the buzzing would stop and click.. does this give you any idea's.. i can always check again.

cheers.. i'm sure its something simple as the car has been standing for a while..
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Economy mode wont go away till it starts because the BSI needs to see the engine running it wont stop it starting though

Live data parameters 1 cranking speed cam and crank sync yes or no and fuel pressure all while cranking are what we need to see
Thanks Reliable

To give you my findings

1) camshaft / crankshaft synchronisation NO / while cranking YES
2) reference fuel pressure 345 bar / measured fuel pressure while cranking goes above that and over 400 bar

I assume when choosing single or double mixer valve in PP ? i've chosen single ( just to clarify.

Its the fuel flow regulator that is buzzing with ignition on as it stops when i do the actuator test. I will say that the only error codes i have are EGR solenoid valve sticking on valve programming values and the glow plugs although i've cleaned the EGR and put a blanking plate on it while the car has been apart last few days while checking air filter. Cant do much about glow plugs as i cant get 1 of them out as it just turns.
 
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