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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Right let's talk about those electrical doors.
Even though mine have not given me any problems I have seen that there are some out there giving problems so let's talk about them as I am a qualified mechie.

First problem that I found is really not a problem but a safety feature build in the system is when the door closes and there is an obstruction in the path like the safety belt buckle that gets in the way after you unbuckle and have not returned/reeled completely back.

Second problem is that darn contacts that's sure to get dampness and corrosion, luckily were I live is most of the year dry, that needs cleaning and protected, use a penetrating oil spray ,or a water disperser protector something like electrical contact oil/lubricant or silicon spray.

Third problem that I found on the net was places that gets realy cold. As the electrical doors are driven with electrical motors they are not directly connected to the doors but thru cables and are guided onto a curve and then to the door on the bottom. When it is extreamly cold and especially when dampness has occurred when opening the door for a short period this cable will freeze up so use a silicon spray because some penetrating oils can freeze as well and most silicon sprays don't , you may think I am crazy but try a spray and cook those you use in the kitchen even though I have not tried it as it does not get so cold here I have had one time I had to use it for a blast refrigerator unit.

Forth problem we still stays are those connecting cables were they go onto the curved section under neath , due to opening and closing to impress people, it can wear a groove it the metal and pinch the cable ,I think this problem can be cured by fitting a Teflon sheet in.

If you find more problems or cures or both feel free to ad it here if any of my cures don't work for you please correct me it is for the good for all of us driving this nice car.

PS
I have found a problem that will prevent the sliding door on the side of the fuel filler flap to open, as the previous mechanic by passed mine, after reading the manual I saw that the door on the fuel filler flap side shouldn't open if this flap is open, in investigating mine that still open when flap is open I saw that there was a magnetic Reed switch that was by passed/shorted out. The magnet on flap hinge activate the Reed switch to closed and current flows thru switch to door relay that opens the door. If flap is in open position door won't open and gives 3 beeps. If switch or wiring is faulty you will have same problem . Mine was still right but magnet was to far away to activate switch, wedged out magnet and moved it closer solved my problem
 
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Yes, I can think of a problem.

Back when the 1007 was launched I was sha...er, seeing a girl who worked in a dealers service department and she regaled me with tales of customers cars who's doors had simply fallen off.

The other problem is the 1007 is too slow, heavy, uneconomical, poor handling and expensive. A solid own goal and pug ended up selling only one fifteenth of the numbers they'd forecast. Oops.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for info for the doors as I will google about the doors and see if any one els had that same problem.

As for second bit info this is only for the doors related , but to sort of correct you that my be for the 1.4 and not the 1.6 as fuel consumption on the 1.6 I get 20km/Lt with 4 adults and were I stay aint flat either but lets stay here only on the doors and rather make a new section spesific for other related instances.
 
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20km/L is around 60ish MPG. Forgive me, but that's a little hard to believe for the 1.6 petrol. Very hard, in fact. Even the HDi version would be pressed to do it. Let's be honest - the 207 was, engine for engine, cheaper, bigger, seated 5 properly, had 5 doors if desired (which didn't fall off), and was lighter and therefore quicker and more economical (substantially so on the 1.4 petrol
, 4 seconds quicker to 60 and around 10mpg better on the combined)). A brave idea, but appallingly executed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am quating now directly from the manufature 1.6lt 16v 2 tronic model code NFUC/P interurban driving lt/100km figers are 5.4 lt/100km or 52.4 mpg , so does leading reviews gives there stats.
maybe your left foot are very heavy and needs to lift it a bit or you never really drove the car or liked it at all in the frst place like I don't like volvo's ,bmw's ect. and can tell a lot of bad thing's about them and I have driven all of them , as I said earllier I am a mechanic by trade and work on vehicles 10 fold to 40 fold most mid size family sized saloon prices ,I have worked on 70% of vehicles and driven even more so. I bet I can give you a lot of problems on the vehicle you currently drive.

As for the doors you commeted that falls off, no one on the net so far reported as sort and if it were a fault Peugeot would have recalled the 1007 and posted on the net , bring it to me the following conclusion that if I am correct that some one worked on the doors and did not secured again properly and was a once of occation for if it were tru the net and media would be full of it and Peugeot losing a lot of customers.

It is easly to blame a manufature for faults even if the customer fidels/tampers/mess around with equipment they knows squat/not trained/qualified to work on. I work daily with clients that tamperd with the vehicle to fix it themselvesending blaming it on poor design ect. I have heard a lot of excuses for faults especialy one lady that complained on high mpg of her vehicle to be found she uses the choke lever to hang her handbag.

I all so dont say the 1007 is perfect it has it faults this is why this blog's are for and to find solutions for ,so no more drifting from the subtect please, and if you dont like it go and bug other manufactures and if you still carry on like this we will ignor your posts.
 

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Thanks for those tips Thunderstorm. I've had a 1007 for just over three months and was worried about what I'd read about the reliability of this model, but when I looked at one it suited me so well in all other respects I just had to take a chance. Yes mine has appeared quirky -the doors have sometimes opened and stopped halfway or opened just a crack and then stopped. But I've come to a similar conclusion that its dirt in the runners thats the likely culprit. I've just taken a cloth along the runners and spayed them with a silcone lubricant and the problem has gone away. I've also bought a cleaning block for the contacts at the front of the door - you can get a small softish cleaning block intended for cleaning circuit board contacts in Maplins for about three pounds -I keep mine in the little pocket by the steering wheel which is just right for the job. With this you can polish the contacts easily without abrading the metal.
I've also found the doors can appear to do odd things if you and your passenger push the buttons together - the door will give a jolt and then stop -if you've just started opening the door manually and the driver presses the remote the door may stop in mid flow. However, another push on the button soon rectifies this.
What makes it so good for me is the height! I'm 6'3" and I've suffered with my back a bit of late, and I found my previous car (a Fiat Panda) was almost impossible to heave myself out of when my back was bad, and once inside, the visibility was poor and I had to duck down to see traffic lights. The 1007 is so easy to get into and has great visibilty and I'm getting an average of 56.7 mpg from a 1.4 diesel (see Fuelly.com for my exact figures -I'm the only 1007 on there). I had initially thought the 1007 was too expensive for me, but their unpopularity means second hand ones come cheap, and I've got a luxury car for the price of a much more basic car. As long as those doors hold out I'm a satisfied owner.
 
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Thunderstorm said:
...and if you dont like it go and bug other manufactures and if you still carry on like this we will ignore your posts.
Will you now? How very mature!

Grow up.
 

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How do they lock?

I've got a problem on the passenger door -it won't open with the button or remote but will if I tug the handle. Once open it will close and lock as it should. Now I thought I'd give it a good clean and lubricate, but I was surprised to find that all three of the metal prongs that locate into the holes at the front of the door have no mechanisms in the door or frame -just solid metal into a plastic lined hole. So what pulls the door in tight? I can only think it must be that bank of contacts -but how do they exert a pull? Do they become magnetised when a current goes through them? When I press the switch to unlock I can here something rotate in the front of the door, but the door doesn't open and 'left sliding door fault' appears on the display. Any ideas?
 

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This looks like one of those jobs that looks better when you see it in the flesh... anyhoo, here's a picture of the locking mechanism.
 

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Thanks for it doesn't really help! What exactly is doing the pulling in and how is it accessed? I can see that the metal hoop on the rear of the door is involved in the locking, but there's nothing here that indicates whats doing the pulling in of the front of the door. I can only assume that it takes palce at the top and bottom of the door. How do you get to those mechanisms -take the ceiling panel off? In my case I bought some spray grease and sprayed the runners including into the recesses I can't see at the end of the travel. The following day the door opened normally and has continued to do so.
 

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Well its beginning to take shape even it it falls somewhat short of a Haynes manual style stripdown. Some descriptions would be handy -for example what on earth is that box labelled 40? Looks like a perspex box of flies!:)
 

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40 is a box of fittings - screws, studs, etc.

What I have to do to get these photos is

go to Peugeot Toolbox,
call up your type of car,
hope I have the right one (I don't have your VIN - don't publish it here.)
firk through until the right picture appears, or
find another model is appropriate and
start on those images if the images are available, not all are.
do a screen shot that is meaningful,
crop the photo so you can see detail and
then save it to disc and
then resize it if necessary.
I then attach it as a picture.

To the side of the original picture is a scrolling set of parts with their names and numbers (their names are a rough translation of the French and not very accurate.) Knowing the names of things is hardly likely to help you in stripping anything down.

If I supply these details, I have to do the above about 3 or 4 times and then combine the images into one image and then manipulate the image so you can read it and it is within the size allowed by the forum.

I don't think I can be of any further help.
 

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Been reading the mixture of fault symptoms and advice on the sliding doors.
I have had a 1.6 sport petrol from 2006 and apart from the odd failure to open on an incline they have been very reliable until recently.
The passenger door opens either with the remote or either button but would not close. Very occasionally it would close indicating to me a faulty contact.
My wife had a more serious problem about thirty miles from home when the gears started to play up. Not 100% sure what the symptoms were apart from noise from the gearbox and failure to engage gear.(wifes description not clear!) It was recovered and the recovery man said he had tried the car and it was making a graunchy noise from the gearbox and it could have been the differential.
I took it for a drive and could find nothing wrong at all!!
It was due for the 18000 service so I asked the main dealer to look at both door and gearbox problems. They could find nothing wrong on the diagnostics apart from the passenger door which they said needed a new motor and door handle assembly at £600. Since it closed manually ok I thought that I would make do with it as it was.
Returning home the door started to work properly again all by itself using either switch or remote. Pretty sure it was not the motor then!

My question really is that I have a suspicion that some of the electrics are vulnerable to damp (the car lives outside) and it is damp that is causing both problems.
Damp also once caused the car to go into "snow mode" and stay in 2nd gear with a snow symbol on the screen. It worked again when it dried out.
I thought that it might have been a faulty battery or alternator but these were checked . Is there an area of the electrics for instance amongst all those relays in the engine bay that anyone here has had any success with perhaps spraying with WD 40 or silicone?

I am sure the problem that the wife had with car was electrical rather than mechanical. Perhaps the noise heard by her and the recovery man was a solenoid jattering trying to engage a gear but not receiving enough power?

Incidentally the car is brilliant when it has been working well the other four years!
Is quite punchy with the 1.6 twin cam and I like the gearbox. I sit tall so plenty of headroom.
The best thing I have ever done is to take all those stupid alloys off with 215/50 16 stupid tyres and replace with steel wheels 14" 185/65. It is a new car, quiet, comfortable and lo and behold unlike the alloys, the steel wheels fit in the spare wheel carrier. They are also much cheaper to renew.
42 mpg average.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Help offered

If anyone needs help go to my facebook page search for
Peugeot 1007 and look for the one that I runs ( Thunder Storm ) as I write documents on everything anybody experience with the 1007, I look into as many faults as I can and gearbox , fuel ,doors and electrical systems are on there and soon some more ,have a look some are enlightenment as not even the agents know it. ;-)
 

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And the strangest thing is no one has asked why a car with electric doors has handles that wouldn't look out of place on a hanger door. Did the draughtsman click on enlarge by mistake on the CAD screen !!!!!
 
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