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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hiya Group.. Greetings to you all, I'm new to this part of cyberspace.
I'd just like to recount my experiences since buying an 03 607 HDi 2.2 with 50K on the clock and a FULL dealer history.
This is my ninth Pug, and I've just come up from a 406.

6 Mths - Front battery died, no warning, no deterioration, no low cell, nothing. Symptom was a little confusing as the rear battery powers the lights.

7 Mths - Had one of those fun accidents trying to filter into roundabout traffic looking over my right shoulder, the car in front of me long gone. As I set off full throttle I hear my passenger scream.. "She's stopped". Applied brakes in time to give her rear bumper a little 'fairy-tap'. :nono: Requiring a new intercooler and N/S headlight. The intercooler wasn't problematic but getting hold of a servicable headlight from scrappers was a nightmare saga in itself.
The aircon needed gassing up as well, and surprisingly that's held up ok.

9Mths - This is the interesting bit (If anyone's still here) when all manor of things happened together.
It started cutting out very occasionaly, just cruising to a halt, ticking over with no throttle effect. It re-started fine, pretending nothing was up. I briefly once spotted the cruise ctrl-off message as it died.
I thought I spotted the brake lights stuck on once whilst 'her-indoors' was driving off. She reported that it had come up with an ESP error but it had cleared :confused: Reading the groups seemed to indicate that the brake-light switch and positioning of the cruise ctrl switch on the brake peddle can cause cutting out so rang the local Pug dealer for a quote to simply replace the brake-light switch.. Twenty six quid.. Ok that's for me! I'll pay that on the chance it'll cure it. This was my first encounter with this Pug dealer and just as I drove in to their car park it started missing on one cylinder. I asked if they'd also have a look see what may be causing this (new) problem. When returning I was faced with a ninety quid bill, they had to put the planet box on which they claim showed no errors, but two injectors were leaking causing the misfire and it would take three days to sort out... but they would hire me a car.
Once the plastic cover was off the top, a one eyed man on a galloping horse could have spotted this problem, there was gunge all over and you could hear and feel the injectors blowing out.
I questioned the no fault recorded finding, as I knew it had been displaying an ESP fault intermittently. Got nowhere. Then came the fun drive home, the misfire had gotten much worse, the car wouldn't change up from bottom gear in 'Drive' I had to manually do it, the ESP fault was there solidly and the cruise ctrl wouldn't work.

Next day I took it a proper diesel fitter who replaced the two washers under the leaking injectors in half an hour and cured the ESP fault, the lack of cruise ctrl and the inability to change out of 1st gear in 'drive' by correctly positioning the stuck on brake switch I'd just paid ninety quid for :nono:

Present day
Never a dull moment with this motor, now the back N/S brake is sticking on intermittantly which believe it or not gave me the Anti-pollution error because before I realized it was stuck, I was driving it hard to compensate.

Here's Hoping the next 9Mths are slightly less eventful :thumb:

Jim.
 
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7 years from a battery on a low mileage car is pretty good going. You'll tend not to get warning tell-tales as the BSI manages the available juice until it suddenly can't do it any more. Nothing unusual there. Lead acid batteries like a good, solid, regular-as-possible charge and to be discharged as little as possible - I'm waiting for the battery on my 5 year/30,200 mile 407 to snuff it any day now, although if it lasts to the old girls 7th year I'll be chuffed.

The injector seals isn't uncommon - a one eyed alcoholic chimp on qualudes should've spotted that one. Sack your man for a spannerman with working eyes. Nice work him spotting the duffly fitted brake switch - do you realise the switch costs about £6 from independant sources, and is a cinch to fit?

Good luck for the future. All things considered she's not faired too badly for a 7 year old and I hope it continues to cause a minimum of fuss for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
chopper1192 said:
7 years from a battery on a low mileage car is pretty good going. You'll tend not to get warning tell-tales as the BSI manages the available juice until it suddenly can't do it any more. Nothing unusual there. Lead acid batteries like a good, solid, regular-as-possible charge and to be discharged as little as possible - I'm waiting for the battery on my 5 year/30,200 mile 407 to snuff it any day now, although if it lasts to the old girls 7th year I'll be chuffed.
Thanks for the reply Chopper.. :thumb:
I was wondering with those 407s how on earth they now get so much power out of em?? (Ok common rail, turbo, intercooler etc.. is it just the 16 valve head that makes the difference?)
The first 1600 Diesel I had was a 305 with a top speed of 70 MPH about the time the engine governor cut in :eek:

Yep I know some of that battery stuff, I did an electrical apprenticeship from 1966 to 71 and worked with em all my working life :p
I've no idea what a BSI is though?? (British Stds Institute?)
Unless I'm mistaken, the front battery on the 607 is solely responsible for starting, and all my previous experience with failing (car) batteries has been cold weather poor starts first. This one worked fine through the cold weather, then one day started the car no problem on the outward trip and died completely (I mean practically OC, jump start reqd ) for the return trip. Examining the cells proved no low electolyte level(s).. My guess would be vibration induced internal disconnection.
The confusion arose because on normal cars :nono: the headlights etc would dim or die with the starter and if they don't it's a starter motor or connection problem. At that time I wasn't sure if this one even had a boot battery and certainly didn't expect it running the headlights.
Diesels are supposed to be harder on lead acid batteries due to vibration but I've had 7 diesel Pugs so far and this is the first replacement battery I've needed. The 10 year old 406 I just sold with 100K on it still had it's original battery and even managed to start in deepest winter when the glow plugs were getting iffy... Maybe I've just been lucky.

This particular brake-light switch cost only four quid, the other eighty odd was for the Pug dealers xmas fund... but hey they have to eat!

The proper mechanic who did the injectors (and sorted the Pug dealer's dabbling FOC) suggested that the 16 Valve motor has smaller diameter allen studs holding the injectors down than on the old 8 valve motor, so they're reluctant to heave on em. That may be why my old common rail 406 did 100K without messing up its head with black gunge.

regards.. djimbo.
 
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That makes a lot of sense chum. Leak injector seales isn't uber common on the 407, but seems a bit more common than the olde 406, and that'd explain why.

Power outputs on disels is climbing, but I can't help thinking it's gone a bit far. For example, the later gen 2.2 HDi 407 is a sequential dual tubbie job and churns out 170 BHP. However, its to end and acceleration are identical the the 2.2 petrol, and the petrol manages about the same MPG as well, which leaves me wondering why they bothered?

Aye lad, my other motor is a 308 HDi with 110 horses from a 1.6 diesel. Sure, it's not a rocket ship, but I started driving in the day when a 1.6 petrol was doing well to manage 60 or 65 BHP, so for a diesel to nearly double that and still manage 60+ MPG is really poretty darn good.

Glad you're enjoying the 607 chum. Nice machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
djimbo said:
It started cutting out very occasionally, just cruising to a halt, ticking over with no throttle effect. It re-started fine, pretending nothing was up. I briefly once spotted the cruise ctrl-off message as it died.
I thought I spotted the brake lights stuck on once whilst 'her-indoors' was driving off. She reported that it had come up with an ESP error but it had cleared :confused: Reading the groups seemed to indicate that the brake-light switch and positioning of the cruise ctrl switch on the brake peddle can cause cutting out
It's been about seven months since switch replacement, and it hasn't done it since. No cutting out, no ESP error. It appears the brake-light switch was the culprit. (flingers clossed)

jim.
 

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djimbo.. can you talk me through on how to change the intercooler??

do you have to take the bumper off or could be done from the engine bay by taking the airfilter etc off?

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Scotcruz said:
djimbo.. can you talk me through on how to change the intercooler??

do you have to take the bumper off or could be done from the engine bay by taking the airfilter etc off?

cheers
I don't think you'll get it that easily :(
I'm afraid I bottled on that one, I got 'a man' to do it, who assures me it was a BUG*ER to change, involving taking the bottom strut/member off.
It was in for the N/S light changing too, which is almost as difficult to achieve. (Half the front end was already off)

Oh BTW mine's the smaller of the two intercoolers, I believe(?) there's one about the same size as the main water rad.


jim.
 
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