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I have a 2007 57 plate peugeot 207 cc 1600 16v petrol with the dreaded anti pollution fault ! It starts and drives but has a lack of power and the exhaust sounds really loud even though it's in good nick? Ive had it plugged in to a diagnostic machine which has brought up the codes p0599 p11a8 and p0011 . Now I've had a good look through all previous threads and there is a lot of different opinions I think it may be a stretched timing chain ( I hope it isn't :() is there anyway I can find this out for certain ? Would I benefit from getting someone with peugeot planet to plug in ? Is it a hard task to change the timing chain ? Any info will be greatly appreciated . Also I am from just outside sheffield so can anyone direct me to a specialist . Thank you
 

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daughter has simular problems from time to time with her cc, usually a run holding the revs up clears it the next day.
chain sounds quiet when cold but going to swap the tensioner anyway as it feels like the cam timings going out when booted.

already changed exhaust vanos, think the old one had heat damage from the manifold, casing looked discoloured and it rattled.

will let you know if i find a bad tensioner car has under 60k on it. may have to wait though she needs it for work until the end of the week.
 

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well my plan of action is/was (p0014 code)
swap cam sensors over see if code changes to BANK A done, didnt help
change vanos solenoid done, no more p0014 but cam timing still not right
next will be to run my multimeter in parrallel to vanos solenoid to make sure its getting voltage under load.
then cam chain tensioner swap
then cam cover off for timing check (will have to buy the book for that one)

then new chain if needed, not looking forward to that, never done keyless crank cam belt before.
is it true these engines can slip their cam sprockets? ep6

any more sugestions?
 

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well update, this thread will end up my diary in the end.

swapped cam chain tensioner, and boy did it need doing, it was so weak i could squash it with no effort, new tensioner was mega stiff.

so be warned if you have the ep6 engine, 59k 57 plate 207cc

not a hard job pm me if you want to know what tools and a quick rundown.

but car still not right, still has that kn filter sound under load, reving in neutral engine is quiet and sounds good,

so next is cam cover off chain and timing check.

to be continued.........
 

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back again, well took cam cover off and turned it so both id labels faced up, but they would not both sit in the up position.
chain looked good and felt tight, but the question is now has the chain stretched or has a cam cog moved.
guess i need to lock off the crank, anyone know where the crank lock pin goes?(when i get one)

getting fed up now....and cold and tired,,,,,advice

marked on pic the cam lock top flats, dont sit level

 

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"swapped cam chain tensioner"

guessing from the latest post u didn't lock the flywheel when u did this.... that's just gonna end in tears!

to see if chain has stretched u need a dummy tensioner, torque it to 0.6Nm which u need special tool to do, then measure the length of it.

don't buy tools from ebay for the locking of the camshafts and flywheel, they don't work well!!
 

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so ok, new chain time

would any kind person have the torque settings for the cam and x2 vanos cam gears.

scoured the net, loads on the mini one but peugeot?
its a ep6 engine.
thanks
 

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U will need more than just those torque settings, would strongly advise not to use tools from eBay. We did on the EP6DT engine and the timing was still way out using a "proper" tool.
 

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are you saying the cam lock bent when tightening the cam, or ecu timing as read car can be a pain to start after because ecu getting mixed up with new settings.
was going to order a kit with a dummy tensioner, but have read using the normal tensioner to take the slack out works well.
any torque settings you have would be good.
 

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car can be a pain to start with now as its probably jumped a tooth or too on the timing which has totally thrown it out of sync, be lucky to get away with no damagae to pistons and valves if slipped !!

"but have read using the normal tensioner to take the slack out works well"

don't know where u read that but when u tighten it up the tensioner is gonna compress with the slack which is bad bad bad!!

whats the VIN of the car and will get u the settings.
 

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if its the 120VTI engine Ep6

then they are,,,

fixing screws : Variable timing actuator (*) 0,8 daNm

Position sensor (Eccentric shaft) 0,8 daNm

fixing screws : Inlet gear Tightening to 2 m.daN
Angular tightening to 180°

fixing screws : Exhaust gear Tightening to 2 m.daN
Angular tightening to 180°

Top fixing screw : Fixed guide 2,5 daNm

Bottom fixing screw : Guides 2,4 daNm

Timing chain tensioner 8,5 daNm

fixing screws : Piloting electrovalves (Timing gear) 0,9 daNm

Cylinder reference sensor (inlet camshaft) 0,8 daNm

Cylinder reference sensor (exhaust camshaft) 0,8 daNm

Crankshaft gear Tightening to 5 m.daN
Angular tightening to 180°


that's the torque settings but there is proper procedure to refit etc etc
 

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thanks very much for that, guess i need a new torque wrench as mine starts at 20nm so probably not the best.

with the tensioner i ment putting the cam pulleys on loose then using the tensioner to take the slack out that side of the chain before torquing up.

anyway job for next week, thanks again.

any other tips/tricks gratefully received.
 

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Hi there, had similar trouble to those you describe and initially thought cam chain etc.

It would seem that there are two hydraulic solenoids that alter the cam timing, the oil ways to these are very small and prone to blocking on higher mileage cars, remove these and clean also use an engine flush, chage oil, filter etc, in addition remove the vvt motor and clean check it is free to move, DO NOT check by putting across battery as it only operates at approx 3 volts.

after i had done these the car ran better than ever and loud exhaust / induction noise had gone.
 

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thanks for that, but in my case it is a stretched chain, started the job today, only ran into a few problems, first the crank lock tool wouldnt go through due to build up of dirt, so had to put a sanding disc on my grinder and shave a tad off.

next was cam locks wouldnt go on straight until i undid crank and eased the exhaust cam back a tad.

now the kn filter noise she had, well found a chunk of guide rail in the crank housing (playing card in the spokes of a pushbike)
so a timebomb!!!

hopefully will finish job thursday as its raining tommorow...

cant beleive this car is sub 60k
 
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