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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I have a 2.0HDI 90Hp 307 hatch year 2002.
PP2000 reports a fault with EGR valve with air flow higher... I have replaced the MAF sensor no change.
There are 4 Solenoids on the front of the engine, which control turpo EGR etc,
I have tried testing with PP2000 but hear no noise to know whether they are working or not.
Is there some way to test?
 

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Hi I have a 2.0HDI 90Hp 307 hatch year 2002.
PP2000 reports a fault with EGR valve with air flow higher... I have replaced the MAF sensor no change.
There are 4 Solenoids on the front of the engine, which control turpo EGR etc,
I have tried testing with PP2000 but hear no noise to know whether they are working or not.
Is there some way to test?

I had the same problem all you can do is look at the air flow in live parrameters rev the engine if the air flow doesn't drop probably means the EGR isn't opening.
It will be either EGR stuck or the solenoid is knackerd, I got some solenoids from the breakers and changed mine and it started working. I don't think there is a way of testing the solenoids unless they have gone open circuit. Don't forget to check your vacuum circuit for leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had the same problem all you can do is look at the air flow in live parrameters rev the engine if the air flow doesn't drop probably means the EGR isn't opening.
It will be either EGR stuck or the solenoid is knackerd, I got some solenoids from the breakers and changed mine and it started working. I don't think there is a way of testing the solenoids unless they have gone open circuit. Don't forget to check your vacuum circuit for leaks.
I know there are 4 on the front of the engine is it a question of changing all 4??
The vacuum pipe is very small and quite hard is it likely these split?
 

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The small rubbers on the ends of the hard plastic vac pipes do perish. There is an actuator test in the engine section of PP2000. I think from memory the EGR actuator is the one fitted with the green plug (double check by following vac pipe back from EGR valve runs along the back of the engine)
 

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The small rubbers on the ends of the hard plastic vac pipes do perish. There is an actuator test in the engine section of PP2000. I think from memory the EGR actuator is the one fitted with the green plug (double check by following vac pipe back from EGR valve runs along the back of the engine)
I tried the actuator test and it only proved the valve was operating but not if it was working correctly.
If the diaphragm inside has perished the actuator test will not show this.
I wish I had changed mine to start with it would have saved me a lot of time, after I changed the EGR solenoid another error appeared which was the EGR butterfly so I changed the solenoid on that as well, haven't had anymore EGR related faults.........touch wood.
 

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Disconnect actuator outlet to egr and connect vac gauge (or a small length of hose and hold your finger over end) do actutor test with engine running (I think PP allows this or after vacuum has been allowed to build up) and read gauge or feel suction on end of hose.

I would also expect other faults to appear if diaphram leaking as when actuated vac would be lost or drop which should affect boost etc.

I had a 2.2 HDI which would over boost when cruising and put MIL on after a lot of head scratching it was the diaphram in swirl valve actuator, when swirl activated at cruise vac leak started from diaphram which dropped vacuum lowering boost, ECU tried to keep boost level so increased boost vacuum this triggered swirl to close, full vac restored, instant over boost and limp mode/MIL on. Took about three days to finally suss it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok dokey... I'll have a go at that... it feels like it really has no oomph. I have a 406HDI 2.0 90HP which has far more oomph (and better MPG).

I am hoping if the EGR works the MPG will improve from 41.7
 

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If the vac pump was faulty i would expect you would get other faults and MIL as turbo control is vac so normally you would get low boost fault.

I would look at the turbo actuator as a possible fault as it is quite common and you will get poor performance and increased fuel use due to lack of boost
 

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MIL - Engine Management Light

Sorry just realised you have the 90 BHP im sure these have self regulating turbo so no actuator (only two on front of engine block not 3/4 for 110 and 110 FAP).

As EGR should fail shut (opens under vacuum) therefore if vac pump fault egr should remain closed. If you disconnect vac pipe to egr and use a vac pump or even suck on pipe you should be able to hold a vacuum and when vac released often can hear a click/clunk as the valve shuts
 

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Discussion Starter #12
MIL - Engine Management Light

Sorry just realised you have the 90 BHP im sure these have self regulating turbo so no actuator (only two on front of engine block not 3/4 for 110 and 110 FAP)
Hmm not sure what u mean there , no offence meant.
I have 4 solenoids on the front of the engine.
Pp2000 reports a problem with the egr having high air flow
 

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Can you see a vacuum pipe from turbo to one of the actuators on front of engine (if i remember from mine its the bottom one). If so this is the actuator to check

Was the replacement MAF a genuine unit as some of the clones are known to be very poor quality and missmatch between expected air flow and readng from MAF is often flagged as EGR high flow. You can also get same issue with air leak in induction system which allows air to bypass MAF
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The maf came from eurocarprats don't think it was genuine replacement. There was a fault before and after though.

I think I'll check the hoses, then check the vac off the pump.
Then I'll check vac off solenoids
 

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Just double checked on Service box and 2.0 90 BHP only show 2 Valves EGR and Air Doser (flap in intake pipework) Turbo self regulating so no ECU control.

2.0 110 FAP is only one shown with four Valves EGR, Turbo and two doser valves (to bypass intercooler during FAP regen).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'll have another look in the morning! Where's the flap in the intake?

If I pull the pipe of the vac pump I should feel a suction action with my finger over it.

Thanks for looking.
 

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Flap is located on end of inlet manifold on elbow where turbo hose fits (Bosch only)

Yes you should get a vacuum from the pump hose
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Right checked the engine and done a couple of tests on the engine solenoids.

You are correct i have 2.

I have used some carb balancers from my motorbike to check the operation of the vacuum pump and that is pulling a good vacuum.

So next on to the two solenoids.

I disconnected the outlets (believe the lower of the two pipes) and connected the vacuum dials.

On the left (as you look at it and bottom) of the two solenoids i have no vacuum registering and none when the engine is revved.

On the right hand one it builds a slow steady vacuum, id doesn't seem to drop.

Just realised i haven't done electrical tests!

I have a 406 estate with similar engine and i disconnected the EGR vacuum and at idle that is pulling a good vacuum.

Windy not sure exactly where you mean with the flap valve is it at the back of the engine?
 

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The flap valve (Peugeot call it a doser) is located as the first thing on the inlet manifold item 17 in below picture.

Going from memory the doser is sprung open and vac is used only to shut valve at switch off to stop running on and shudder.

The key thing is the valve should be open when engine running as if not that will kill power.

The Vac to the EGR should be nil at idle and rise slowly if you hold higher revs (again best to have it running and do actuator test if possible)

 
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