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J

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Discussion Starter #1
Now then. The squeaky noise at low revs in gear is the alternator belt needing tension isn't it?

How much should I expect to pay to get it done?
 

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just renew the belt or could be your crank pully,

mine was making a noise and put a new belt in £13 eurocarparts put that in then the belt snaped week later it was the roller tensioner that snaped the bolt off so got a new one and tensioner while i was at it noise stopped and now its back the crank pully is new so am lost what it is air con maybe but still puts out cold air but i know all the parts are changed so its only for 1min the noise is there and its away all day
 
J

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Hmm... Is it easy enough to do myself? What do you think I'm best off trying first?
 

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have a look at the tensioner and there is 3 bumps on the tensioner if am right need to check the 307 haynes book, if you look at the tensioner while the car is running you will see 3 bumps on one side and one bump on the other side of the tensioner now if the middle bump matches the one bump on the other side then the belt is fine, if on the 3 bump side the very top bump is level with the other one bump the belt is due to replace i will try and get a picture or video from mine to show you what i mean belt is easy to replace and the tensioner is not so bad if you could do break pads then you could do the tensioner
 

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sorry if my lights have just turned out but isn't the drive belt auto tensioning so altering is not needed.
 

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dunno if this might help abit, i had to guess a few things but if you pm me your vin i can get accurate pics:thumb:

 

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heres how is done!

DW10TD & DW10ATED ENGINE

1 - SPECIAL TOOLS:



[1] Dynamic roller setting rod (Diameter 4 mm) (-).0188-Q1 FOR THIS JUST USE A ALLEN KEY OR DRILL BIT HAS TO BE 4 MM




[2] Dynamic tensioner compression lever (-).0188-Z . FOR THIS JUST USE A 15MM SPANNER


2 - DATA DYNAMIC TENSIONER:



(A) Setting hole
(B) Belt extension checking mark (fixed on engine)
(C) Zero extension mark
(D) Maximum extension mark

This marking system permits checking of the extension of the belt; if the marks (D) and (B) coincide, it must be replaced .

Tightening of the bolt (1) to 4.5 daN.m

3 - REMOVAL:

IMPERATIVE : if the belt is to be re-used mark the direction of rotation .

Remove :

the front right-hand wheel
the protective screen under the power train
the front right mud shield



Turn the tensioner roller (2) using the tool [2], until the setting rod [1] is located in the setting hole (A) (Pin : Diameter 4 mm) .

Remove the ancillary drive belt .

IMPERATIVE : check that the rollers (2) and (3) turn freely (no play and no tight spots) .

4 - REFITTING:

Refit the belt ending with the roller (3) .

IMPERATIVE : take care that the belt is correctly located in the grooves of the various pulleys .

Remove the tool [1] (Using the tool [2]) .

Continue the fitting operations in the reverse order to removal .

5 - Crack open a nice cold drink!
 
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dude you're a legend! I'm gonna have a look at the whole thing and see what I have to do the stuff (whilst my paint dries on the interior plastics :D)

I'm gonna have a few looks over this guide and try to be 100% sure cos I don't fancy getting the bus to work next week (We got this whole week off :D beat that!)

CMax you legend. Wish we had a "thank" button on this forum!
 

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dude you're a legend! I'm gonna have a look at the whole thing and see what I have to do the stuff (whilst my paint dries on the interior plastics :D)

I'm gonna have a few looks over this guide and try to be 100% sure cos I don't fancy getting the bus to work next week (We got this whole week off :D beat that!)

CMax you legend. Wish we had a "thank" button on this forum!
No worrys i have more stuff like the above over the next few days i'll post some of the basic guides up on the how to part :thumb:
 
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