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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
407 2L 136 HDi 2006 plate.

I am looking to source a replacement diesel high pressure fuel pump, it's a:

Siemens 5W S40019

I would like new rather than refurbed but I cant find many suppliers, does anyone have any recommendations? I am based in Newcastle UK. (have tried andrew page, eurocarparts, GSF, not keen on their prices).

Is it possible to interchange a Siemens pump for the Delphi version or are they different fitments? According to the delphi website it is compatible with my engine, DW10BTED4. The Delphi part number is 9424A110A I wasnt sure if the connectors would all be in the same place or if there could be other issues? I was trying to find the LUCAS part number since they offer a pattern part but cant find their catalogue so would appreciate it if anyone could point me to it?
 

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Think someone like reliable406 is best to answer this, can I ask why you need one ?? Not a common request

Sent from my K013 using Tapatalk
 

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You will struggle as brand new pumps are expensive, usually over £500-600. Best bet is to find a local place to recondition yours or get a recon. Second hands pumps can be a gamble as I found out on my old car (pump was worse than the one replacing!!)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I got a code saying something similar to fuel pressure regulator valve fault. Not enough fuel pressure.

This is following on from my earlier post, regarding the unresponsive throttle pedal.

I fixed my previous issue by resoldering the pedal wiring and that cleared the throttle track codes. I then received a code about the EGR so I replaced the EGR, car ran _ok_ for about two weeks although I did notice lag on the throttle pedal.

When the new issue began, I was testing the throttle pedal at some red lights on the way home, in neutral, tapping the throttle up to 1500rpm and letting it settle, and it was responding well without lag, on the third occasion the pedal didn't respond at all, I got nothing at all from the throttle for about 10 seconds. During which time the car sat and idled without any indication of a problem. Then the throttle began to respond again and the car drove normally for the rest of the journey home.

When I got home I plugged in Diagbox and saw the code relating to the fuel pressure regulator, the logged time since ignition start appeared to coincide with my throttle experience. I'd replaced the fuel filter the weekend prior (5 days) and driven the car to work and back without issue.

Do you think it's likely there's anything wrong with the pump? I was just going to swap it and be done with it, but on reflection I'm wondering if the common rail sensor could be responsible? Not sure where to source a replacement as not convinced I should trust the ebay-specials.

I also read in a previous thread about the fuel sender unit being a potential source of woe.

I've managed to source a few pumps:

I can get a recon for £250 but am concerned that recons may not be reliable long-term.
I can get a Lucas for £400.
I can get a Siemens new for £480.

The pressure sensors on ebay appear to be £41 but if anyone can recommend a better supplier I'd pay a little extra.

If anyone has a datasheet (or test instructions) for the common rail sensor or fuel sender would be appreciated.
 

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Really £400/500 isn't that expensive is it. I wouldn't bat an eyelid if it kept my car going, unless the car was a £10 snotter which would be easier to replace than fix.

Now over a grand I'd have to think about..

Before spending any money I'd be quadruplley sure (I just made that up) my £500 was fixing the car though.
 

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If you have a siemens pump you cant fit a delphi as the systems are different must be like for like but as said its not a common issue yes they do fail but usually its a complete seizure and they take out the cam too !!

I recon your problem is elsewhere have you looked at fuel pressures in live data if it climbs with revs and matches reference its usually fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The regulator is £125, and I can get the recon pump for £250 so unless someone can persuade me that it's a likely fix I'm not keen to replace the regulator on its own. Since the error reports its not able to meet the pressure demand, I can see the regulator open @ a certain % and the fuel pressure doesn't match the reference pressure then I guess:

* either the pump is not supplying the fuel at the correct pressure. (which wouldn't really make sense since the car is running ok and it's a linear delivery related to engine RPM).
* the regulator is not opening or is sticky. (which might explain the pedal lag).
* the pressure sensor is defective. (which could also explain the pedal lag).

Not done any live data, the car has driven fine at all revs since replacing the EGR. Very confused. I have cleared the regulator pressure fault prior to replacing the EGR suspecting it was a spurious error and it has only just returned.

Here's the other thing, if I did go ahead and replace the pressure regulator, is it 7 or 8 on the following diagram, or should you do both?:



Edit, I just realised part 7 is the inlet metering valve, so surely if it was a fuel sender issue that would be flagging a problem? Or is that the inlet of the common rail? I.e. the common rail doesn't have it's own pressure sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just bought the new pump. When I priced up the regulator, plus the inlet metering valve I'm already best part of the way there, then 6 months down the line I end up having a mechanical failure, might as well bite the bullet now.
 

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I replaced the regulator on my 1.6hdi recently, £50 ebay and a 15 minute job. In my case the regulator was sticking in the open position at low revs (by open I mean it was letting all the fuel go back around the low pressure circuit, and no fuel going to the hp line).

So the car would keep dying when coming to any stop sign or junction when the regulator was retracted and jammed. I think it was leaking too because the connection had diesel in it. I know you've probably got it sorted at this stage but these were the symptoms when my sticking regulator. The car ran perfectly once it was actually running, or once I turned off the ignition manually, but if it died itself it wouldn't start again.

It was hell on one way streets and in towns!
 
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