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Discussion Starter #1
Hi my 307 1.6 diesel sport is being a pain to start when cold. If I’ve driven it anywhere it re starts within a second. Runs fine and seems to have full power etc. I thought it may be battery on way out so changed it. But same issues. Takes about 6 or 7 tries to get it started. Runs really lumpy for 30 seconds. Then is fine. Any ideas???
 

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How cold is cold? If very cold then glow plug circuit/glow plugs need checking.

Could also be slow cranking speed, cold diesels need a good cranking speed to fire.
 

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Wouldn't have thought glow plugs would be needed

I suspect chaffed through plastic fuel pipe

If you had a fuel primer bulb ? on your spec engine you could pre prime the fuel system from first cold start to prove that theory

can you smell diesel in the engine bay. /. evidence of leak from parking space

just as you say it starts instantly from initial running

Unless you have a bad snap connecter seal or check fuel drain on filter as known that to be loose
 

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I assume you have an electronic EGR valve and still connected ? not blanked off

I think it needs to be plugged into Planet software and inspect its data
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also noticed while changing the battery that the air intake pipe is missing. The resonator intake is there as well as the side plate. But the whole section from that to the air filter is missing. Would that also be an issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If it’s the starter motor, how big a job is it, specialist tools etc?
I’ve looked at types and seem to range from 1.4kw to 2.2kw does it make much of a difference?
 

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When you say you changed the battery ? old for brand new ?
or just a different battery of some age refitted ?

Just that I have had a bad batch of NEW batteries from a company and they are utter rubbish so we changed brands to a good make and that was faulty too
So think there has been a bad batch of batteries manufactured just different stickers applied .. so I drop test any new battery before I fit it

I would hope to think you would notice a sluggish starter

Although awkward access unless in a workshop environment I would be checking the wiring and terminals /. bad connections cable corrosion

I think if you had a faulty crank sensor it would throw up a light as well as a code

Hence why we need to see some data

Would a MAF disconnection make any difference first start ?


You never mention if the car is sluggish or drives perfect throughout the rev range


Think you need to ask for local Pugforum user with planet for beer tokens
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I took MAF sensor out and gave it a clean. Noticed while taking out air pipe to turbo that the middle section. White off shoot. Seemed loose in the hole it clips into. Should it have a rubber seal ?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just an update, starts easier, but not first time after cleaning maf. But idle is rougher and wants to stall on start up
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah, I’m trying to find someone with planet who’s near me. Littleborough/ Rochdale area who can help with codes etc
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Not been able to get a planet diagnostic done. But a friend lent me his Autophix one. Code was P1351 IDM Input Circuit Malfunction/ Ignition Coil Control Circuit High Voltage.
I’m assuming this is the glow plug relay?
I’ve heard that they can be a common fault and would explain the issue when cold, but not when engine warm.
Sound about right?
Anyone know part number?
2007 1.6 hdi. 307 sport 5 door 110hp variant 3c9hz
 

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If you do some MORE reading you will find that code shows up a lot even on cars that start fine.

Glow plugs WILL NOT HELP please dont waste time on them if you do not believe me try unplugging the relay and starting from cold your car will still start the same or even better find 1 that starts fine and unplug its relay it will ALSO still start fine !

Modern diesels use the glowplugs for REGENS not starting.
 
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